C3 78' Corvette LS1/T-56 with Holset HX-55 Turbo build
08-05-2011, 09:46 AM
#21
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Looking neat man...btw, you can't do that with the heater bungs on the LS1...you have to connect them or you are going to have cooling issues as it is an integrated part of the system. Just run a 90 fitting and a u bend hose to bridge the two and you will be fine.
Do a search on that, you'll see what I mean.
Do a search on that, you'll see what I mean.
08-05-2011, 09:52 AM
#22
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Nice! good to see fellow C3 owners take the plunge. I plan on a turbo ultimately myself, so I'll be watching your thread closely...
My main concern is getting to the intercooler in the front, there is next to no room to get around or over the radiator. I just plan on focusing my attention on the issue when I get to it.
08-05-2011, 01:42 PM
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Well due to financial limitations and shitty paint, lol, I won't be doing the turbo for quite some time. The goal now is to just get a running swap and then take it from there.
But routing the intercooler lines is definitely an issue I felt. The core support completely goes across the nose. The only real solution I thought of was a water to air set up instead of air to air. Either that or modify the hood hinge (more towards the front or a rear hinge) in order to allow pipe space to go over the front of the core support.
But routing the intercooler lines is definitely an issue I felt. The core support completely goes across the nose. The only real solution I thought of was a water to air set up instead of air to air. Either that or modify the hood hinge (more towards the front or a rear hinge) in order to allow pipe space to go over the front of the core support.
08-08-2011, 08:38 AM
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Well due to financial limitations and shitty paint, lol, I won't be doing the turbo for quite some time. The goal now is to just get a running swap and then take it from there.
But routing the intercooler lines is definitely an issue I felt. The core support completely goes across the nose. The only real solution I thought of was a water to air set up instead of air to air. Either that or modify the hood hinge (more towards the front or a rear hinge) in order to allow pipe space to go over the front of the core support.
But routing the intercooler lines is definitely an issue I felt. The core support completely goes across the nose. The only real solution I thought of was a water to air set up instead of air to air. Either that or modify the hood hinge (more towards the front or a rear hinge) in order to allow pipe space to go over the front of the core support.
08-11-2011, 09:42 AM
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Fuel tank is all done with the sump pan and ready to be reinstaled. I decided to make my own sump pan and not by a $50 unit that wouldnt even fit my tank properly. Cost me $3 for the weldable steel AN fitting for the feed. I also painted the tank with some Tractor paint from ACE, great stuff and sprays on real nice. I will never use Automotive paint again, no need to spend hundreds when you get the same stuff for $30 a gallon. Unless of course there is some candy being laid down. I then coated the inside with the tank sealer.
Was also having a very slight clearance issue with the Oil pan. The steering linkage was starting to hit close to full lock, so the pan got cut and re welded. Just now need to drill and tap for the Turbo oil return.
I also decided to open up my valve covers to inspect. I saw another thread from someone who picked up a motor with only 30k miles and it looked like someone had a camp fire in there. Needless to say I was very happy to see mine couldnt look any cleaner if I took a toothbruss to them.
Was also having a very slight clearance issue with the Oil pan. The steering linkage was starting to hit close to full lock, so the pan got cut and re welded. Just now need to drill and tap for the Turbo oil return.
I also decided to open up my valve covers to inspect. I saw another thread from someone who picked up a motor with only 30k miles and it looked like someone had a camp fire in there. Needless to say I was very happy to see mine couldnt look any cleaner if I took a toothbruss to them.
08-11-2011, 02:53 PM
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There's a nice guy on here that goes by the name of Mr. Vette. He converted his hood to hinge at the back to make room for a cold air intake. I believe he also notched his core support. He's a real nice guy who likes junk yard parts and I'm sure if you asked him, he would point you in the right direction.
That sump looks pretty good. And I'm surprised you had an issue with clearance on the oil pan. You did use the fbody pan, right? You're the first I've heard, but that's good you got it sorted out.
That sump looks pretty good. And I'm surprised you had an issue with clearance on the oil pan. You did use the fbody pan, right? You're the first I've heard, but that's good you got it sorted out.
08-18-2011, 09:36 AM
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Also got more done, pan drilled, taped, and instaled drain port for the turbo oil line. New clutch and flywheel from ATS. Mounted fuel tank, and fule pump setup. Everything is bolted back in, motor, trans, driveshaft. Radiator is in and now its down to the wire connections and some fuel line.
08-18-2011, 11:40 AM
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looks good. i almost bought a c3 a few years back. I wasn't planning a frame off, and was worried about birdcage rust so i looked into other cars. Always liked the body style tho, its sad its considered the worst of the vettes, i personally like it more than the c4.
09-29-2011, 11:17 AM
#30
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Here is my solution to the VATS delete. Very simple very clean, and creats a removable unit that can be taken out for extra security. First read the OHM output of the key resistance. Set your reader to read 20k ohm. Mine was 1.13, so taking into consideration there is a .2 ohm room for difference I when up to 1.2k I when to radio shack and got some resisters. found an extra plug I had cut out of the harness not being used that was the same for the plug the key reader goes to. This is an orange wire with 2 white wires inside of it on the coloumn. I ran my resister in series one 1k resister and 2 100ohm resisters to give me my needed resistance of 1.2k used some shrink wrap to seal them in, then folded them on themselves to creat a nice neat clean little unit. VATS key reader bypassed. Ubtil its deleated out when I do a dyno tune for the Turbo.
09-29-2011, 11:24 AM
#31
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Here is the bracket I fabricated for my f-body clutch mastercylinder. I wanted to just buy the bracket that mounts to the brake unit and extends down, but could only find one for the older camaros. the only other modification made was a new mount point on the pedal. Had some steel rod the perfect size in my scrap, cut it down, drilled a hole for a cotter pin and enough room for a washer and welded it on.
I also found this little blue HKS temp sender housing that goes in the radiator hose. I instaled a copper hose fitting to accept the hose for my steam line and put it in my upper radiator hose alongside the F-body power steering cooler.
I also found this little blue HKS temp sender housing that goes in the radiator hose. I instaled a copper hose fitting to accept the hose for my steam line and put it in my upper radiator hose alongside the F-body power steering cooler.
Last edited by User-c3; 10-08-2012 at 08:22 AM.
09-29-2011, 11:27 AM
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power steering cooler and high pressure line decided to polish the power steering cooler to make it a bit more presentable. I also had a new high pressure power steering line made at a local shop. This thing is rated for something crazy like 3000 PSI. I dont think I will have any problems.
Last edited by User-c3; 10-08-2012 at 08:23 AM.
09-29-2011, 11:43 AM
#33
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made a new coolant overflow catch can, an air filter setup that cost me a total of $35 including the filter, polished the mass air sensor until its tuned and to get rid of it with the turbo. The engine is in for the last time wired up and have gone for a drive. Now I just need to finish all the wiring and clean everything up. Next on the list of to does, custom interior, then the turbo and then some new paint.
Last edited by User-c3; 10-08-2012 at 08:23 AM.
10-07-2011, 11:38 AM
#34
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Took the car out for the first real shake down this past week. What a beast!!
I didnt have any seats in it and the brake lights where not exactly hooked up but still had a little fun with it.
I didnt have any seats in it and the brake lights where not exactly hooked up but still had a little fun with it.
10-08-2011, 03:45 PM
#39
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Thanks for the compliments, The hood was already painted that color when I got it, have been planning on painting it white when I repaint the whole car, but I like that its enjoyed as is.
For the intake, I got the filter from the local auto parts store, the cheap shitty spectra filter for $25, and the 45 bend and rubber cupling is from Lowes. I got a 3" PVC bend, ground off the castings sanded the whole thing and painted it with spray can truck bed liner. Polished the MAF, and used the factory accordion style rubber piece to the throttle body. Looks amazing and was totally cheap and perfect. I didnt want to spend much money on it knowing its all gonna be coming off soon anyway.
The turbo will be going where the factory A/C and heat unit used to be. I had removed them a while back anyways and it frees up the perfect amount of space on the passenger side. It will be very tight clearances, and I may have to send the exhaust out the side through the fender vent area, but it should look pretty cool. As far as the intercooler piping, I have to run from the turbo up over the engine down the center, over my radiator and down in front of it, keeping as close as possible so the hood will still open and give clearance. From the intercooler, back the same way to the throttlebody. My hood with the high rise gives me more clearance over the radiator and I will still notch out the support a bit to give me more.
What's your secret to the $35 intake??? Any tips?
Watching to see where you mount the turbo. My 5.3L is coming together and am going to drop it in my 80 Vette in the next few weeks.
Watching to see where you mount the turbo. My 5.3L is coming together and am going to drop it in my 80 Vette in the next few weeks.
The turbo will be going where the factory A/C and heat unit used to be. I had removed them a while back anyways and it frees up the perfect amount of space on the passenger side. It will be very tight clearances, and I may have to send the exhaust out the side through the fender vent area, but it should look pretty cool. As far as the intercooler piping, I have to run from the turbo up over the engine down the center, over my radiator and down in front of it, keeping as close as possible so the hood will still open and give clearance. From the intercooler, back the same way to the throttlebody. My hood with the high rise gives me more clearance over the radiator and I will still notch out the support a bit to give me more.
10-08-2011, 08:35 PM
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Thanks for the tips on the intake. I use the truck bedliner on gun stocks, perfect match for HK's or anything that has a synthetic stock.
How big in diameter is the Holsett? I've scoured the internet an only found that it's "roughly" 11 inches.
Once I get my engine set in then I'll know if a front mounted turbo is even an option. Going to be pretty tight with the motor mounts and the way the front crossmember sits.
I live in Texas, so AC is a must have, not an option. Going to use a compressor from a 98 Monte Carlo 3.8L. From the looks of it the stock lines should bolt up, same style block fitting with a bolt in the center, and much more reliable.
How big in diameter is the Holsett? I've scoured the internet an only found that it's "roughly" 11 inches.
Once I get my engine set in then I'll know if a front mounted turbo is even an option. Going to be pretty tight with the motor mounts and the way the front crossmember sits.
I live in Texas, so AC is a must have, not an option. Going to use a compressor from a 98 Monte Carlo 3.8L. From the looks of it the stock lines should bolt up, same style block fitting with a bolt in the center, and much more reliable.