LS1 350z Drift Build 'Nuff Said'
#23
On The Tree
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I would be worried about the condition of the motor. I just bought a 40K mile LS1 for my BMW E36 project and it was spotless inside. I mean heads look brand new. To get those kind of deposits you need 100K+ mileage or even more. It seems you are spending a decent amount of money to get this motor ready it would be a shame if it is burning oil due to worn rings.
#24
but in respect to that, a lot of the work he's doing can be transfered to a new block if this one were bad or remain on this motor during a rebuild so no big deal taking a gamble imo!
#25
Well got to this post early today, its a short one but its a good one... So enjoy:biggthumpup:
STAGE 1: Phase 4 'LS1 to LS6 PCV conversion'
Okay this weeks beer of choice is New Belgium Brewing 'Lips of Faith Series' 'Super Cru'. This beer is pretty much a hopped up Fat Tire with double the malt and hops; Add in crisp Asian Pears, which is a Belgian thing to do; and bring it to life with a Saison yeast. With a ABV of 10% it does get the job done:JAMIN:
Okay what we are installing today is a LS6 PCV system. You might be asking your self why do we need to change PCV systems. Well the reason we switched to a GM LS6 PCV system was to reduce oil consumption issues associated with the factory LS1PCV system.
I got the kit from Thunder Racing, it includes everything needed to do the conversion: LS6 Valley Cover, valley cover gasket, valley cover bolts, LS6 PCV Tube, and valve cover plugs.
Thunder Racing LS1 to LS6 PCV Conversion Kit : $169.99
This pic shows the difference in the to PCV systems. Bottom is the LS6 PCV system and the top is the factory LS1 PCV system. You can also see from this pic why some trimming is required.
Start of by removing the old LS1 PCV system, I forgot to take pics of this stage, just thought it was straight forward enough. Next prep your area for cutting. Make sure you cover everything you can, use towels, blue painter tape every thing so no shavings get in the engine.
Here is a better pic of the prep area taken from LS1Howto.com
This is the piece that we are going to trim down. We need to chop the wall off this block all the way down so that its even with the bottom of the pit. It may help for you to mark a line on the aluminum about 3/4" down so you know where to cut
Here is a better pic of the target area, pic taken once again from LS1howto.com
Okay cut made. I just used my high power electric cutting wheel to cut this off.
Another pic of the cut
Once you done cutting the piece off make sure you clean the area very well before installing the new LS6 PCV system. The new unit should just drop right into place. Torque all 10 bolts to 18 lb/ft. Next, hand thread in both knock sensors until they bottom out. Torque these to 11 lb/ft. Reconnect both wiring plugs, and slide the plastic connectors back in place.
Now there is more to the install but I have no need for it since I am going to route my PCV system to a Catch can later.
So there you have it nice and quick and easy..
Total price so far: $4,240.19
Next week STAGE 1: Phase 5 'FAST 102 Intake/FAST 102 TB'
STAGE 1: Phase 4 'LS1 to LS6 PCV conversion'
Okay this weeks beer of choice is New Belgium Brewing 'Lips of Faith Series' 'Super Cru'. This beer is pretty much a hopped up Fat Tire with double the malt and hops; Add in crisp Asian Pears, which is a Belgian thing to do; and bring it to life with a Saison yeast. With a ABV of 10% it does get the job done:JAMIN:
Okay what we are installing today is a LS6 PCV system. You might be asking your self why do we need to change PCV systems. Well the reason we switched to a GM LS6 PCV system was to reduce oil consumption issues associated with the factory LS1PCV system.
I got the kit from Thunder Racing, it includes everything needed to do the conversion: LS6 Valley Cover, valley cover gasket, valley cover bolts, LS6 PCV Tube, and valve cover plugs.
Thunder Racing LS1 to LS6 PCV Conversion Kit : $169.99
This pic shows the difference in the to PCV systems. Bottom is the LS6 PCV system and the top is the factory LS1 PCV system. You can also see from this pic why some trimming is required.
Start of by removing the old LS1 PCV system, I forgot to take pics of this stage, just thought it was straight forward enough. Next prep your area for cutting. Make sure you cover everything you can, use towels, blue painter tape every thing so no shavings get in the engine.
Here is a better pic of the prep area taken from LS1Howto.com
This is the piece that we are going to trim down. We need to chop the wall off this block all the way down so that its even with the bottom of the pit. It may help for you to mark a line on the aluminum about 3/4" down so you know where to cut
Here is a better pic of the target area, pic taken once again from LS1howto.com
Okay cut made. I just used my high power electric cutting wheel to cut this off.
Another pic of the cut
Once you done cutting the piece off make sure you clean the area very well before installing the new LS6 PCV system. The new unit should just drop right into place. Torque all 10 bolts to 18 lb/ft. Next, hand thread in both knock sensors until they bottom out. Torque these to 11 lb/ft. Reconnect both wiring plugs, and slide the plastic connectors back in place.
Now there is more to the install but I have no need for it since I am going to route my PCV system to a Catch can later.
So there you have it nice and quick and easy..
Total price so far: $4,240.19
Next week STAGE 1: Phase 5 'FAST 102 Intake/FAST 102 TB'
#26
#27
STAGE 1: Phase 5 'FAST 102 Intake/FAST 102 TB'
Okay beer of choice this week is Julius Echter 'Hefe Weisse' if you are looking for a good wheat beer then look no further.. I personally love hefeweizen type of beers and this one really hits the spot.. Hope you like.
Okay what we have today to instill is a FAST 102 Intake with a FAST 102 TB, and a FAST fuel rail.. Now I bought this as a package deal on Texas Speed Shop, and yet again they do not disappoint.
FAST 102 Intake/TB and Fuel rail kit from Texas Speed Shop: $1,653.98
(I added the Coolant pipes and plugs, fuel rail and gaskets)
Man I just love how the FAST 102 TB is packaged.. I felt like James Bond opening up this case. Its well protected and overall just impressed me..
Now a lot of people might question the 102 Intake. Some say it does not give you any gains so why bother.. Well the main reason I bought this Intake was simply for my later plans for the motor. I do plan on storking this engine and running a twin turbo set up so this intake will def help me when I put down the big numbers. Got to plan ahead..
And damn does it just not scream beast mode...lol
First thing to install is the new Coolant pipe for the front of the engine..
pretty straight forward here, you just place it where the old coolant pipes went.
Next is the Coolant plugs for the rear of the engine...
Place both coolant plugs where they are suppose to be, and tighten down..
Next is the FAST 102 Intake gaskets... love the orange
Place around every runner...
Next install the intake, follow the FAST instructions. They state what torque specs and proper order to torque down..
Next is the gasket for the FAST TB,,
Place the gasket where it needs to be...
And then install this beastly TB,, man this thing is nasty
Almost complete.. Looks like an engine now..
Next is the FAST fuel rails.. Now I don't think I am going to keep these so if some one wants them shoot me a PM and I will sell them to you.. Going to go with the FAST Billet Fuels instead..
They come with spacers so you can run the factory LS1 injectors
Sorry for the tilt of the motor in this pic but you get the idea... Engine is pretty much complete just have to install a few things but this is what it will look like..
Goodnight and sleep tight my lil engine..
Total price so far: $5,894.17
Next week STAGE 1: Phase 6 'Coils/Spark Plugs and Wires'
Okay beer of choice this week is Julius Echter 'Hefe Weisse' if you are looking for a good wheat beer then look no further.. I personally love hefeweizen type of beers and this one really hits the spot.. Hope you like.
Okay what we have today to instill is a FAST 102 Intake with a FAST 102 TB, and a FAST fuel rail.. Now I bought this as a package deal on Texas Speed Shop, and yet again they do not disappoint.
FAST 102 Intake/TB and Fuel rail kit from Texas Speed Shop: $1,653.98
(I added the Coolant pipes and plugs, fuel rail and gaskets)
Man I just love how the FAST 102 TB is packaged.. I felt like James Bond opening up this case. Its well protected and overall just impressed me..
Now a lot of people might question the 102 Intake. Some say it does not give you any gains so why bother.. Well the main reason I bought this Intake was simply for my later plans for the motor. I do plan on storking this engine and running a twin turbo set up so this intake will def help me when I put down the big numbers. Got to plan ahead..
And damn does it just not scream beast mode...lol
First thing to install is the new Coolant pipe for the front of the engine..
pretty straight forward here, you just place it where the old coolant pipes went.
Next is the Coolant plugs for the rear of the engine...
Place both coolant plugs where they are suppose to be, and tighten down..
Next is the FAST 102 Intake gaskets... love the orange
Place around every runner...
Next install the intake, follow the FAST instructions. They state what torque specs and proper order to torque down..
Next is the gasket for the FAST TB,,
Place the gasket where it needs to be...
And then install this beastly TB,, man this thing is nasty
Almost complete.. Looks like an engine now..
Next is the FAST fuel rails.. Now I don't think I am going to keep these so if some one wants them shoot me a PM and I will sell them to you.. Going to go with the FAST Billet Fuels instead..
They come with spacers so you can run the factory LS1 injectors
Sorry for the tilt of the motor in this pic but you get the idea... Engine is pretty much complete just have to install a few things but this is what it will look like..
Goodnight and sleep tight my lil engine..
Total price so far: $5,894.17
Next week STAGE 1: Phase 6 'Coils/Spark Plugs and Wires'
#28
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Good call on the LS6 PCV. Shame that TR doesn't sell the cover with the PCV inside the valley cover. Makes for a cleaner install IMO.
That intake really looks badass, it almost makes me want to get one. It's a good thing it's out of my price range or I would!
That intake really looks badass, it almost makes me want to get one. It's a good thing it's out of my price range or I would!
#30
Launching!
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on the topic of the condition of the oil buildup. My engine has 70k miles and when I saw this thread it made me a bit concerned of the condition of mine when you said your engine had 30k miles. No judgment of any kind, but for the amount of money spent on this build I might be a bit concerned of the actual mileage of the engine or the abuse it was put through. Here is a pic I snapped after I poped off the valve cover. I got the whole car and parted it out, so I had validation of the actual milage of mine. Just passing it on.
#34
We carry the chasebays tucked radiator with -16 AN fittings already welded on as well as the -16 coolant lines and fittings already assembled. Their radiators are a dual pass and you have your choice of inlet and outlets on the driver or passenger side.
What are you doing for wiring, fuel lines, fuel return ect.
What are you doing for wiring, fuel lines, fuel return ect.
#36
We carry the chasebays tucked radiator with -16 AN fittings already welded on as well as the -16 coolant lines and fittings already assembled. Their radiators are a dual pass and you have your choice of inlet and outlets on the driver or passenger side.
What are you doing for wiring, fuel lines, fuel return ect.
What are you doing for wiring, fuel lines, fuel return ect.
And you are correct
#37
Okay since its kind of in the mid of the week I decided to update this thread with a little tease pic of my new wheels that are on the way..
Now these are going to be my show wheels/ meet wheels. Specs are
19x11 0 offset
19x13-20 offset
I am in the process of buying about 8-12 wheels ( of course DPEs) for drift spares. These will be 18x9.5 - offset and 18x12- offset.. (and they will be all black too)
Hope you guys like..
Now these are going to be my show wheels/ meet wheels. Specs are
19x11 0 offset
19x13-20 offset
I am in the process of buying about 8-12 wheels ( of course DPEs) for drift spares. These will be 18x9.5 - offset and 18x12- offset.. (and they will be all black too)
Hope you guys like..
#38
Damn hipster drifters! lol
Sweet build so far and love the pics. I'm sure if you are in Houston I will run into you if I ever make it back in town. If not probably at the next drift event I make it to when your build is done. Making some good progress on my SC600 build but not home to take pics
Is this the same 350 with the white roll bar?
Sweet build so far and love the pics. I'm sure if you are in Houston I will run into you if I ever make it back in town. If not probably at the next drift event I make it to when your build is done. Making some good progress on my SC600 build but not home to take pics
Is this the same 350 with the white roll bar?
#39
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on the topic of the condition of the oil buildup. My engine has 70k miles and when I saw this thread it made me a bit concerned of the condition of mine when you said your engine had 30k miles. No judgment of any kind, but for the amount of money spent on this build I might be a bit concerned of the actual mileage of the engine or the abuse it was put through. Here is a pic I snapped after I poped off the valve cover. I got the whole car and parted it out, so I had validation of the actual milage of mine. Just passing it on.
Truthfully though, other than the fact that the oil bypass in the pump stuck and wiped out the crank, the motor looked fine, dirty but fine. I think with the new parts he has put on, the motor will have lots of hard miles left in it.
#40
Staging Lane
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That is about what my 80,000 mile motor looked like, the one Royal_T is building looks just like the insides of the 160,000 mile motor I replaced.
Truthfully though, other than the fact that the oil bypass in the pump stuck and wiped out the crank, the motor looked fine, dirty but fine. I think with the new parts he has put on, the motor will have lots of hard miles left in it.
Truthfully though, other than the fact that the oil bypass in the pump stuck and wiped out the crank, the motor looked fine, dirty but fine. I think with the new parts he has put on, the motor will have lots of hard miles left in it.
Comes from people not changing the oil. coulda been a 30k mile motor on the factory oil. Its fine, awesome project!