ford power steering pump on 95 F bod?
08-14-2011, 03:51 PM
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ford power steering pump on 95 F bod? The project.
1995 camaro Z28. engine and transmission is removed. Ford taurus SHO engine with forged internals is installed mated to a TH400 with a 5500 stall converter. For now the stock 10 bolt rear end is in place. Car is gutted and caged.
The problem. My fabricator and I are have a disagreement on what to do with the power steering system in this car. I need to have power assist so going with a manual rack is not a option. I have the stock power steering pump that came with the 95 Z28 but with the way the belt routing is on the SHO engine it is not possible to use it because the pump needs to ride on the smooth side of the belt. So the debate is should I use the factory ford pump or use a LS1 power steering pump. Either way a custom bracket will have to be used because the SHO PS bracket uses the same space as the turbo pipes on the passenger side of the engine.
Any input is welcome.
1995 camaro Z28. engine and transmission is removed. Ford taurus SHO engine with forged internals is installed mated to a TH400 with a 5500 stall converter. For now the stock 10 bolt rear end is in place. Car is gutted and caged.
The problem. My fabricator and I are have a disagreement on what to do with the power steering system in this car. I need to have power assist so going with a manual rack is not a option. I have the stock power steering pump that came with the 95 Z28 but with the way the belt routing is on the SHO engine it is not possible to use it because the pump needs to ride on the smooth side of the belt. So the debate is should I use the factory ford pump or use a LS1 power steering pump. Either way a custom bracket will have to be used because the SHO PS bracket uses the same space as the turbo pipes on the passenger side of the engine.
Any input is welcome.
08-15-2011, 12:07 AM
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initially this is being built for the strip, but later on the suspension and converter will be changed out for road course duty. That might be a ways down the road though. I am hoping to be somewhere in the 10's when I get the right gears. I might not be able to do it with the 3.42's it has now. I have a lot of RPM to play with so I can go with pretty aggressive gears if I need to.
bump for some information on power steering systems
bump for some information on power steering systems
08-18-2011, 09:38 AM
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Based on what I am hearing, I think I would use the Ford pump. I remember reading back in the day that those motors were capable of more RPM but ford had accessory/belt probs so they set the limiter to what, 7500?
I would make a bracket to fit it wherever is convenient and just make sure belt alignment is perfect.
Just out of curiousity-what kind of ECM you going to run?
I would make a bracket to fit it wherever is convenient and just make sure belt alignment is perfect.
Just out of curiousity-what kind of ECM you going to run?
08-19-2011, 09:30 AM
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My only fear running the ford pump on the original GM rack is the steering being really light or heavy because it is getting the incorrect fluid flow. I don't know if the ford system uses more or less fluid than the GM system.
You heard correct regarding the RPM on these engines. On the automatic turbo SHO I built I would destroy alternators often. I raised the rev limiter to 8500rpm and would go through 3 or 4 per year. Then I got a under drive pulley and never killed one again. The only reason I raised the rev limiter that high was for autoX. I would never change out of first gear I would rev it beyond its power band in order to save time shifting which worked very well and helped me control the car better. Being a automatic it makes hard downshifts a bit unpredictable in a tight course so running really high revs cut my times a bunch.
7K is the factory limiter for the automatic 7300 is the stock limiter for the manual car. 6500-6600 rpm is where the car takes a dive on the dyno graph. opening up the intake and installing more aggressive cams can open the top end up quite a bit. A couple guys running blowers sometimes run 8000-8500 because boost pressure increases with RPM so the higher they rev them the more power and tq they make. I have never herd of one of these engines coming apart because it was over reved. Even the guys that have missshifted 3-2 have not had them come apart that I can remember. That is not to say it has never happened I just don't remember hearing of such a failure. There has to be a limit but I can say with certainty that it is north of 8500rpm. That is what I ran my car to and I never had any issues regarding RPM other than alternator failure. I remember reading that the computer and or the crank sensor is only able to read somewhere in the 10K range. There is a car that races in the salt flats with a destroked SHO engine running 9K I could find the video if you like. That engine has been reworked quite a bit to make power there from my understanding.
I am undecided on which ECU I want to use on the car. I have a full harness for the automatic computer and for the manual computer. I also have a D4U1 computer (automatic) and a A9L (manual computer) so I could go either way. I will not be using standalone management if that is what you are asking. Developments from a gentleman in rochester over the last few years have changed the game of SHO tuning from throwing darts in the dark to being able to really hammer out a amazing tune utilizing the tweecer which plugs into the back of the ECU.
You heard correct regarding the RPM on these engines. On the automatic turbo SHO I built I would destroy alternators often. I raised the rev limiter to 8500rpm and would go through 3 or 4 per year. Then I got a under drive pulley and never killed one again. The only reason I raised the rev limiter that high was for autoX. I would never change out of first gear I would rev it beyond its power band in order to save time shifting which worked very well and helped me control the car better. Being a automatic it makes hard downshifts a bit unpredictable in a tight course so running really high revs cut my times a bunch.
7K is the factory limiter for the automatic 7300 is the stock limiter for the manual car. 6500-6600 rpm is where the car takes a dive on the dyno graph. opening up the intake and installing more aggressive cams can open the top end up quite a bit. A couple guys running blowers sometimes run 8000-8500 because boost pressure increases with RPM so the higher they rev them the more power and tq they make. I have never herd of one of these engines coming apart because it was over reved. Even the guys that have missshifted 3-2 have not had them come apart that I can remember. That is not to say it has never happened I just don't remember hearing of such a failure. There has to be a limit but I can say with certainty that it is north of 8500rpm. That is what I ran my car to and I never had any issues regarding RPM other than alternator failure. I remember reading that the computer and or the crank sensor is only able to read somewhere in the 10K range. There is a car that races in the salt flats with a destroked SHO engine running 9K I could find the video if you like. That engine has been reworked quite a bit to make power there from my understanding.
I am undecided on which ECU I want to use on the car. I have a full harness for the automatic computer and for the manual computer. I also have a D4U1 computer (automatic) and a A9L (manual computer) so I could go either way. I will not be using standalone management if that is what you are asking. Developments from a gentleman in rochester over the last few years have changed the game of SHO tuning from throwing darts in the dark to being able to really hammer out a amazing tune utilizing the tweecer which plugs into the back of the ECU.
09-05-2011, 09:02 AM
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we decided to roll the dice and use the ford pump. I just clears the frame rail on the passenger side using the factory ford bracket. I will post a update when we get it running
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10-18-2011, 02:05 PM
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update. we are using the Ford PS pump and we will just see how it goes. here is the beginning to the build thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...urbo-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...urbo-swap.html
