TurboSportTSi

iTrader: (2)

Well, the BBC disc doesn't work with the factory LS1 flywheel and pressure plate...the sprung hub contacts the flywheel bolts well before the clutch's friction surface touches the flywheel. In addition, the hub abuts the pilot bearing.

It would seem as though I need the monstrous 1050 truck flywheel, but that would necessitate a pressure plate change (have a shiny new SPEC pp for an LS1 that I don't know if I can return). The only way to use the LS pressure plate is to get the Mcleod flywheel. Does anyone have one for sale? The 0.4" thicker one (460535) will definitely work, but I will have to check to see if the 0.2" thicker one (460536) would also.

52 Rat

iTrader: (4)

Can I use the current aluminum flywheel I have installed on my lq4 with a Super T-10? I know I will need the correct clutch disc. I'm going to run a hydraulic throwout bearing.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

What flywheel do you have? LS1/6 style?

Andrew

52 Rat

iTrader: (4)

I have the LS1 style.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If your flywheel is drilled for a standard LS1 clutch, you can use an LS1 clutch disk and pressre plate. The LS1 26 spline disk with fit the super T10 26 spline input shaft fine.

52 Rat

iTrader: (4)

It is, I currently have the LS1 aluminum flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed. I wanted to make sure the aluminum flywheel was thich enough. Thanks.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

As stated in the first post, a standard flywheel with a 621 bell will push the trans back about 0.4". This results in the disk slines running off the front of the input shaft. I've been running it that way for years, no problem.
Also keep in mind you'll need a longer hydraulicf throwout bearing than you would with a SBC/BBC.

mikevick2002

Hey guys I was wanting to run a t-5 trans behind my 5.3 has anyone had problems bolting the 621 to a t-5 is it even possible I see alot I threads about the t-10 but not much on the t-5 I'm just gonna run the 5.3 with a cam and and ls1 intake so it's not gonna be a power house but I keep hearing talk of different flywheels and TOB and pilot bearings different clutch disks and it's kinda throwing me off any info on picking the right trans and clutch kit and flywheel would be helpful I think I got the TOB and pilot figured out thanks folks

douglee25

I wouldn't even bother. The T5 can't handle the stock power of a 5.3 let alone any mods. The 621 bell housing will work, but the trans mount and shifter will be clocked 18 degrees. I'd save your money and put it towards something able to handle the power.

Doug

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

There's a thread in the manual trans section here on a T5 swap. Not the strongest trans but people use them.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

They'll handle 550/600 in a 3200# car with G-Force or AstroGear internals. Yeah you'll spend $3k, but it'll fit the tunnel, shift much better, and be 75# lighter...

rustydogs

any insites on this kit .. to work with what im doing...from a ls1 2002 5.3 to t5 gm trans around 1995.. 26 spline trans.http://www.ebay.com/itm/161036964145...resh=true#shId

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That's a stock replacement kit for 4th gen f-bodies. It has nothing to do with mating a T5 to a LSx engine...

Andrew

fusion_ta66

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bump an old thread but had a couple of questions:

I have a 67 nova that is currently running a Gen I? 350 with a 621 bellhousing mated to a tko600 (26 spline input shaft). The car has a Keisler hydraulic throw out bearing. I am planning on putting in a LQ9 this winter.

I am wondering what I will have to change for the new motor while keeping the tko600 and Keisler TOB.

So it appears I have 2 options.

1) Use the Sachs 0.400" thicker flywheel and Sachs clutch.
PROS: makes up the 0.400" difference allowing me to keep my same TOB geometry as I have now and also allowing full engagement of the clutch splines on the input shaft. Cheaper.
CONS: Must only use Sachs clutch? Heavier rotating mass? Clutch holding power? Removed flywheel dowels could cause imbalance issues?

2) Use my flywheel/clutch of choice (probably LS7).
PROS: Can choose from a ton of flywheel/clutch options. Lighter rotating mass? More holding power from clutch? Short TOB throw necessary for disengagement?
CONS: 0.400" difference from trans to flywheel. Splines on clutch not fully seated on input shaft. Must make adjustments to hydraulic TOB.

Would the hydraulic TOB adjustment be as simple as shimming it 0.400" from the front of the trans?

Comments?


thanks
Joe

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You pretty much got it.
As far as I know, no one has had problems with the spline length issue. Go with the LS1/7 flywheel/clutch. Check with the TO bearing maker about shimming.

05_quick4door

iTrader: (1)

Soooo it sounds like its possible to put an lt1 t56 behind a ls series then right? Use an 05 4.8 flywheel with the lt1 disk and pressure plate? The slave is exterior and uses a fork so worst case scenario I have to cut/reposition the fork geometry. Would I still use the ls7 pilot bearing?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I don't think it's that simple. The consensus seems to be, not worth the effort, just get a LS T56. But I've never done it myself.
Try searching/posting over in the manual trans section here. I know it's been discussed before.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I think the issue is that the LT1 pressure plate has a different bolt pattern than the 4.8L flywheel. The LT1 clutch was a bit of an odd design and used a pull style TOB.

Since LS T56s are readily available, I see no reason to cobble together parts to make a LT1 T56 work behind a LS engine.

Andrew

Ironfreak

I'm putting together a autox/track car out of a 1988 bmw e30. I want to be able to drive it around town as well, but I would say it's 85% purpose built for the track. I thought for the longest time that my manual transmission option was the t56. But I really don't need all those gears. Here in the midwest the Muncie transmissions seem to be everywhere, m20-m22 that I've found locally.

I'm just curious to what transmission you preferred? t10, Muncie and for what reasons. The gearing on the m21/22, especially fist seems pretty low for the 3.73LSD I have in the car.

I haven't decided on doing this yet, I actually have a full manual 4l60e transmission I was going to run. But the information you have provided definitely has opened some possibilities for me.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The Muncie is a better shifting transmission than the T10. In fact, I think a Muncie shifts way better than a T56. This is due to the relatively lower gear mass and large synchro area...blah...blah..blah...

For a Muncie, you have two options, either the M20 wide ratio or the M21 close ratio. The M22 is relatively rare. It has the close ratio gears of the M21 but the gears have less angle, thus making it a noisier but stronger transmission.

The M20 has a 2.52 first gear while the M21/22 have a 2.20 first gear.

With a light car, plenty of power, and the fact that it is mostly a track car, I would go with the close ratio trans.

Andrew