New Product for In-Tank Fuel Pump Conversions
10-10-2011, 01:47 PM
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New Product for In-Tank Fuel Pump Conversions The Retrofit In-Tank Fuel Pump Assembly is the best way to complete your engine conversion in your classic car. Modern fuel injected, computerized engine require 45 to 50 psi of fuel to operate properly. Pumps installed outside the fuel tank tend to overheat and fail. With this assembly, you can install your pump inside the tank like modern cars and trucks. You can also opt for one or two extra fuel pumps as backups in the event of pump failure.
Non-sponsor link removed
Non-sponsor link removed
Last edited by G-Body; 10-12-2011 at 01:33 AM. Reason: removed non-sponsor link
10-11-2011, 02:35 PM
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Sloshing Never hadda slosh problem. My fuel tank has baffles and I've driven the car on empty without any problems.
Last edited by Frnichols; 10-11-2011 at 03:23 PM. Reason: WRONG WORD
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10-11-2011, 06:26 PM
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This kit WILL have starvation problems when retro fitting into a stock tank. No if, ands or buts.
Also I see you are not a site sponsor, your post will be edited shortly by a mod.
Also I see you are not a site sponsor, your post will be edited shortly by a mod.
10-11-2011, 06:56 PM
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Hummm? Gees, some of you guys seem pretty vicious. I'm just a car guy trying to help other car guys. There are about 60 parts in this assembly. The top and bottom parts are computer punched and plasma cut. It takes about an hour and a half to assemble the parts. I'm a parish priest for living and don't need to sell one of these things. I'd add that the pumps will stay in place fine w/o the zip ties and I've had it in my car for 2 months w/o any starvation, no if, buts, or hiccups. If anyone is worried about that, just toss in bean can with a 1/2" hole in the bottom. So relax, I may end up in hell, but it won't be for trying to provide a good heavy duty product that I know works well or I wouldn't have one in my car. And, I lowered the price a little.
10-11-2011, 07:40 PM
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Chill out Father! You gotta realize that most guys here are not rookies and most have been down the road of building a fuel system and have seen the results of the many options out there. I too, do not see how your setup will not have starvation issues at some point without adding baffles and such to prevent it. Its cool that you are offering an alternative but you should also be able to listen to criticism (even if it is harsh) and then explain why your set up works. Don't just say it works. Prove it and then people will buy it.
All the best!
All the best!
10-12-2011, 07:33 AM
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Just to back my statement.... I've done the Tanks inc kit... I've abused the ever living **** out of my car and on low fuel it did starve even with their baffle tray!
10-12-2011, 09:09 AM
#15
As Chuckd71 said.. but you might also state or ask what we think of it as a option to use and not preset it this as a marketing statement (seem to be what many read it as??).
And on looking at the setup. Many well always state there opinon or jump on the band wagon for one reason or another. Don't worry about it.. !
Thanks for making us aware of another option to use.
BC
And on looking at the setup. Many well always state there opinon or jump on the band wagon for one reason or another. Don't worry about it.. !
Thanks for making us aware of another option to use.
BC
10-12-2011, 11:44 AM
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Again, I Object! You're right on the criticism. If I need to change anything, I do want to know about now versus later. Always have had thin skin and get hammered as a pastor like you wouldn't believe. As far as I can tell, 1/3 hate me, 1/3 like me, and 1/3 don't care. But it's not about my popularity, so....
In response, I have to say I’ve never experienced such a problem, even when the car was almost out of gas. And my fuel pump in located in the front-center of the tank. After using this device for several months, I can assure you that starvation shouldn’t be a problem unless your pump location is improperly located.
Starvation is addressed by auto manufacturers, who place baffles in the tank to prevent sloshing and starvation. My '72 Grand Prix has a big baffle in the cent of the tank running side to side with 3/4" to 1" gaps on each side. You’ll also notice that stock pick-up tubes simply hang down near the bottom of the tank with strainer on the end. In addition, my design has the return line adjacent to the pumps), so fuel will be directed to the pump intake.
Some will say that a high pressure and volume pump is different than a mechanical pump with a pick-up tube and will thus lead to starvation. Despite the pressure and volume, both engines with either pump end up (or should) with the same ratio of fuel to air in the cylinder. Since the in-tank pump has higher pressure and volume on the supply line, it also has higher pressure and volume on the return line. Again, my design has the return adjacent to the pump pickup.
So, if you have a starvation problem with a properly located pump, you are out of gas.
In response, I have to say I’ve never experienced such a problem, even when the car was almost out of gas. And my fuel pump in located in the front-center of the tank. After using this device for several months, I can assure you that starvation shouldn’t be a problem unless your pump location is improperly located.
Starvation is addressed by auto manufacturers, who place baffles in the tank to prevent sloshing and starvation. My '72 Grand Prix has a big baffle in the cent of the tank running side to side with 3/4" to 1" gaps on each side. You’ll also notice that stock pick-up tubes simply hang down near the bottom of the tank with strainer on the end. In addition, my design has the return line adjacent to the pumps), so fuel will be directed to the pump intake.
Some will say that a high pressure and volume pump is different than a mechanical pump with a pick-up tube and will thus lead to starvation. Despite the pressure and volume, both engines with either pump end up (or should) with the same ratio of fuel to air in the cylinder. Since the in-tank pump has higher pressure and volume on the supply line, it also has higher pressure and volume on the return line. Again, my design has the return adjacent to the pump pickup.
So, if you have a starvation problem with a properly located pump, you are out of gas.
10-12-2011, 01:39 PM
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I Forgot! If you say you had starvation problems, I believe you. I just think it must have something to do with the tank design or the pump placement. Like I said the stock pickup tube never hadda tray around it that I'm aware of.
10-12-2011, 02:38 PM
#18
A carb has a big cussion of fuel around it that would have to be a prolonged starvation of fuel in the tank to show up in the engine. EFI not so much.
You are very high on the price with no baffel at all. Don't say what kind of pump you are using. don't show pics of the fuel line connections on top of the pump. You need to go back to the drawing board on your approach with this or you are waisting your time.
Tim
You are very high on the price with no baffel at all. Don't say what kind of pump you are using. don't show pics of the fuel line connections on top of the pump. You need to go back to the drawing board on your approach with this or you are waisting your time.
Tim
10-12-2011, 03:25 PM
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Well, the price is what I am willing to sell it for. Otherwise, I'd be doing it for charity. So, I’m OK with not sell any for a lessor price. The value of anything is what the buyer and seller agree upon. As I've already said, a lot goes into making the contraption, so...
As to the connections, I have 3/8" barbs with 3/8" tubing. I used an AN ferule fitting to connect to the 3/8" return line, which I used for the supply line. The stock supply line is 5/16" and I used that for the return and connected it with a 5/16" ferule adapter to 6 AN hose. I used 6 AN hose on both connections. The swivels make them easy to remove. The Aeroquip tubing will slide on a barb fitting and not leak. In fact, they don't recommend a clamp because it might damage the tubing. I put on clamps anyway, but didn't tighten them much.
As to the connections, I have 3/8" barbs with 3/8" tubing. I used an AN ferule fitting to connect to the 3/8" return line, which I used for the supply line. The stock supply line is 5/16" and I used that for the return and connected it with a 5/16" ferule adapter to 6 AN hose. I used 6 AN hose on both connections. The swivels make them easy to remove. The Aeroquip tubing will slide on a barb fitting and not leak. In fact, they don't recommend a clamp because it might damage the tubing. I put on clamps anyway, but didn't tighten them much.
10-12-2011, 03:35 PM
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Your comment on the carb makes sense. Perhaps larger fuel rails would have the same results. I have a '97 Corvette crate motor with the stock rails and regulator. I also used the Tanks Inc. setup for about 2 years. My problem was that I wanted two pumps. That made it very difficult to get the tray, pumps, etc. through the hole, which is why I designed my own setup. I also worried about the potential starvation problem. I tried to drive in conditions that might result in starvation, but it never happened. My stock fuel tank is 25 gallons with a baffle from the factory, so that could be why it works well.