LS1 240sx isnt starting, HELP!!
03-03-2012, 12:16 PM
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LS1 240sx isnt starting, HELP!! It's turning over but not starting at all. Its getting spark because I have sprayed some ether and it will sputter off of that but that's it. The fuel pump is priming but I don't know it the injectors are running when I turn it over(I'm the only person working on it). I have tested all of them with a 9v battery and they aren't jammed. All I can think of (if everything is working) is maybe the gas is bad? Any input will be appreciated.
-Casey
-Casey
03-03-2012, 05:03 PM
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You can check to see if the injectors are getting the pulse signals by buying what's known as a "noid light" for the type of harness/injectors you're using. It'll probably be less than $10 at your local auto parts place. Pull the clip off of one of the injectors, attach it to the noid light, crank the engine & see if the light flashes on & off. Should get you started anyway... Good luck. 
03-04-2012, 11:04 AM
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Alright cool.
I went and checked the gas and i think that's what it is. It looks like dehydrated horse ****. So I'm going to drain it all out and flush the lines and maybe that will do it
I went and checked the gas and i think that's what it is. It looks like dehydrated horse ****. So I'm going to drain it all out and flush the lines and maybe that will do it
03-06-2012, 03:07 PM
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The relay is grounded, my chassis plug just wasn't getting signal. I wiggled it and its priming now.
I sent my pcm off to get a lot of stuff done to it but I cant remember if I told him to delete VATS or not. I think it was just the fuel was all bad.
I sent my pcm off to get a lot of stuff done to it but I cant remember if I told him to delete VATS or not. I think it was just the fuel was all bad.
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05-31-2012, 07:13 PM
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Ok VATS is off. It will sputter with ether so I soaked the injectors and fuel rail in seafoam in case they were clogged and flushed all of the old gas out, still nothing.
06-03-2012, 04:56 PM
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Im no expert ...but i had same trouble with mine....the coil harness wasnt connected properly IIRC #1 has to have a white and Purple?(not sure) wires. i didnt do the install but thats what the guy that did install says he found.
like i said not sure but you might check....
like i said not sure but you might check....
06-04-2012, 07:40 AM
#14
Did you confirm that your switched power source has power in the 'CRANKING' position as well?
Jon
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06-05-2012, 01:19 AM
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You have a multimeter? Each injector has two wires running to it... a pink one which should have 12v in ignition & cranking the starter--This is NOT acc power, should be IGN... ACC power will shut off during cranking of the starter.
The other wire running to the injector provides the signal, or ground, when it's time to squirt. You need to verify that this signal wire, for each injector, is running to the right pin at the computer connector. Use your multimeter to check this. If you're aren't familiar with using a multimeter and testing continuity, just Google "how to test for continuity"
If they are connected correctly, then it's a sensor problem OR your MAF sensor is connected, but not actually ran inline with the throttle body.
Next, check the crank position sensor and cam sensor connectors. Make sure they are all the way plugged in. If so, you might want to try replacing the actual sensors. If you can find someone with a Tech 2 or HPTuners scanner, you'll be able to see if the computer is receiving a signal from the crank and camshaft. If not, I would replace the sensors and see if that fixes it.
Let me know what you find.
The other wire running to the injector provides the signal, or ground, when it's time to squirt. You need to verify that this signal wire, for each injector, is running to the right pin at the computer connector. Use your multimeter to check this. If you're aren't familiar with using a multimeter and testing continuity, just Google "how to test for continuity"
If they are connected correctly, then it's a sensor problem OR your MAF sensor is connected, but not actually ran inline with the throttle body.
Next, check the crank position sensor and cam sensor connectors. Make sure they are all the way plugged in. If so, you might want to try replacing the actual sensors. If you can find someone with a Tech 2 or HPTuners scanner, you'll be able to see if the computer is receiving a signal from the crank and camshaft. If not, I would replace the sensors and see if that fixes it.
Let me know what you find.
06-05-2012, 06:33 PM
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You gotta get a multimeter! It is just something you must have in any garage and you can find them for dirt cheap. It will allow you to test resistance amongst way too many other things. Use one to test for any continuity between the pins with the computer disconnected which would indicate a bridged wire somewhere. Otherwise you can try swapping the crank position sensor.