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Wow that trans is big. I have a 64 Olds Starfire and had to modify the tunnel for a 700R4, then stumbled across what a 6l80E was. My purpose would be to increase MPG while keeping same power/accel. But damn that trans is big. I'd really have to cut up the floor....hm......Nice project BTW
Thanks for the compliment! The trans is huge, but I do have a template made for wrapping it. If anyone is interested I could talk to my buddy and see what it would cost for him to build another tunnel like mine or my template is up for grabs.
Sweet! I am in tunnel surgery now, but the T56 is not quite as extensive as that monster was.
Can you explain what you did for fuel lines. I have the early LS1 fuel rails with the built in return and I am trying to plan my fuel line system. I just installed the Tanks Inc pump set up on my stock tank. I am looking into the Brakequip stuff because I have read negative info on using any type of efi hose because it degrades rapidly.
I have the corvette filter mounted near the tank and a single 3/8" stainless line running to the front. I used the standard GM/Chrysler plastic repair kits to adapt from the steel line to the rail and the filter. From the tank to the filter for both the supply and return I used two of the plastic lines and connected them with the supplied barb fittings and on the front end I adapted with a compression fitting right on the poly to the stainless then I used heat shrink tube on all of the splices mainly just for looks. I'll post some pics later today.
Here are some pics of the underhood mess of wires that I had before I was able to tuck them inside the fender and then after I got the fuse block mounted. I also got the front accessory drive figured out with some 3/8" aluminum diamond plate and some aluminum conduit spacers.
The fuel lines are quick connect nylon repair kits with barbed fittings coupling them together with shrink tube over the top for a little added protection.
Back to this thing not running: I have fuel pressure, power on the run/crank relay in run and crank, the power train relay is energized by the run/crank relay so all of the correct fuses have power at the right time just that I can't get the computer to give me spark or injector pulse. I am running a stock tune from an '08 2500 silverado without a bcm so I'm not sure if that is my problem or even really where to go next. I also have HP Tuners Pro (which I have no experience with) so I figured it would be as easy as going in and disabling the VATS and boom it would fire right up, but I can't seem to figure out how to find the VATS disable bit or if it even has it in the stock flash.
Does anyone have any ideas or helpful hints? Any info would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
Here are a few pics of how I routed the battery cables. I put the battery in the trunk and ran the cables out of the trunk right above the coil spring pocket, grounded the negative to the frame and to the body and I was able to sheath the positive with some heavy duty loom tube and run it inside the frame for the entire length of the car where it might have been subject to damage. I popped out of the frame near the front where the frame turns and goes up then I did a western splice and soldered the starter cable to the main battery cable and went back inside the frame with the starter cable then back out right next to the starter to avoid any header clearance issues.
I got the VATS disabled along with the starter checks but I'm still dead in the water. Turns out that I was looking at the 'Basic' screen and the VATS bit is not displayed until you go into 'Standard' or Advanced'.
One question I have for anyone out there with this similar setup: Are you using the starter relay control wire (pin 52 on x1 yel/blk) from the ecm to fire the 'starter relay coil' and if so, what are you tying your actual key switch crank wire to so that the ecm knows when you are trying to start?
I am not running a bcm but I think I will need to if I would like to run cruise control but I don't believe that I need it to fire the engine. I'm very close to hearing this thing run but I'm getting extremely frustrated!
I'm running LY6/4l80e (just E38/T42) with starter checks and VATS disabled it fires right up. ECM doesn't need to know about the starter. Ign switch controls the starter relay directly. Have the matching BCM here since I also want CC eventually.
Are you seeing good data during cranking? I chased tail on my first fireup since the CMP/VVT connector wasn't plugged in all the way. Had set it up for test fit of the harness and forgot to push it in the rest of the way.
Sorry can't help with HPTuners since I don't use it.
Thanks 71403! I have the same setup with the ignition switch controlling the relay directly.
What data are you referring to during crank? Is that all yours was, the cam position sensor wasn't plugged in all the way? That's a good suggestion because when I got my motor it had that connector unplugged and the pins were pulled out. I put the pins back in color for color but never rechecked to see if everything was seated.
I think I actually lose communication during crank which doesn't make sense because I have the run/crank relay energized during both run and crank and I believe this relay energizes the ecm.
What kind of a harness and fuse block/relays are you using?
Everything on the engine is stock other than the Camaro intake. The MAF is plugged in but it's not out of a truck, it's out of an '08 Impala. Not sure if it's the same pinout but I do believe that it is.