Another LS Fox body notch build. Over 1000 HP!!!
03-31-2012, 06:59 PM
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Another LS Fox body notch build. Over 1000 HP!!! This is gonna take a little while to get all the pics and info together so bare with me.
Car info:
1990 Notch Mustang
LS2 402 stroker -
Eagle 4.00 stroker crank, Comp star 6.125 rods, weisco forged pistons, king coated crank and rod bearings, cometic head gaskets, ARP rod and main studs, melling high volume oil pump, Fast #60 injectors LXR LS7 Fully CNC ported heads with PAC .700 lift double valve springs, ,LS1-GT21 243 / 259 .691" / .702" 1.8 ratio 112, harlen sharp 1.8 moded stock rockers, 11:2.1 compression, GMPP carb style LS7 intake manifold with Nitrous Outlet custom spray bar set up done by Nitro Dave, Wilson 4500 throttle body with adapter plate.
Built and Tuned with FAST XFI w/XIM system @ B&V Performance in Damascus, MD
So far car made 585 RWHP on motor and 865 RWHP on a 200 shot via Nitro Dave's custom spray bar set up! That was on low timing and way too fat. Final #s coming soon.
Cooling:
Mesier EWP, stock f body radiator, 16" summit racing electric fan.
Exhaust:
BRP Muscle Rods 2" primary w/ 3.5" collector
6" pipes with dumps (for now)
Trans:
4L80e converted to full manual valve body via trans go kit, Precision Converter stall speed (so far 2k on motor)
Otherwise stock!
Drive line:
Custom built drive shaft from A1 Drive Shafts, Fab 9 9inch with Chromo housing
Suspension:
Front: Lakewood 90/10 struts w coil over kit, AJE tubular crossmember with tubular a arms, rear coil overs, flaming river manual rack, rear drag sway bar built into the fab 9 housing.
Brakes:
Light weight Wilwood drag brakes with 4 piston calipers front and back, cross drilled and slotted rotors, manual brake master, willwood proportioning valve, line lock
Wheels and tires:
Weld Racing 15x10 with Mickey Thomson 315/60-15 drag radials and 15x3.5 (i think) with MT skinnies
Body:
Mini tubed (stock trunk lid still works), wolf 10 point MS cage w swing outs, Cervini 4" cowl hood, Areomotive fuel cell with in tank a1000
The idea behind this build was to make a true street car that could run 8s with ease. So far with the little testing we have done I believe this should not be a problem. Car still has heat, wipers, all working lights, Over dive with a cruise speed of roughly 85 MPH @ 2000 RPM and 25 MPG on the highway! Should get better when we put a better exhaust on.
Car info:
1990 Notch Mustang
LS2 402 stroker -
Eagle 4.00 stroker crank, Comp star 6.125 rods, weisco forged pistons, king coated crank and rod bearings, cometic head gaskets, ARP rod and main studs, melling high volume oil pump, Fast #60 injectors LXR LS7 Fully CNC ported heads with PAC .700 lift double valve springs, ,LS1-GT21 243 / 259 .691" / .702" 1.8 ratio 112, harlen sharp 1.8 moded stock rockers, 11:2.1 compression, GMPP carb style LS7 intake manifold with Nitrous Outlet custom spray bar set up done by Nitro Dave, Wilson 4500 throttle body with adapter plate.
Built and Tuned with FAST XFI w/XIM system @ B&V Performance in Damascus, MD
So far car made 585 RWHP on motor and 865 RWHP on a 200 shot via Nitro Dave's custom spray bar set up! That was on low timing and way too fat. Final #s coming soon.
Cooling:
Mesier EWP, stock f body radiator, 16" summit racing electric fan.
Exhaust:
BRP Muscle Rods 2" primary w/ 3.5" collector
6" pipes with dumps (for now)
Trans:
4L80e converted to full manual valve body via trans go kit, Precision Converter stall speed (so far 2k on motor)
Otherwise stock!Drive line:
Custom built drive shaft from A1 Drive Shafts, Fab 9 9inch with Chromo housing
Suspension:
Front: Lakewood 90/10 struts w coil over kit, AJE tubular crossmember with tubular a arms, rear coil overs, flaming river manual rack, rear drag sway bar built into the fab 9 housing.
Brakes:
Light weight Wilwood drag brakes with 4 piston calipers front and back, cross drilled and slotted rotors, manual brake master, willwood proportioning valve, line lock
Wheels and tires:
Weld Racing 15x10 with Mickey Thomson 315/60-15 drag radials and 15x3.5 (i think) with MT skinnies
Body:
Mini tubed (stock trunk lid still works), wolf 10 point MS cage w swing outs, Cervini 4" cowl hood, Areomotive fuel cell with in tank a1000
The idea behind this build was to make a true street car that could run 8s with ease. So far with the little testing we have done I believe this should not be a problem. Car still has heat, wipers, all working lights, Over dive with a cruise speed of roughly 85 MPH @ 2000 RPM and 25 MPG on the highway! Should get better when we put a better exhaust on.
Last edited by Black Nasty; 04-04-2012 at 02:48 PM.
03-31-2012, 07:20 PM
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This is how the Mustang started.
This is what I originally built the motor for. The Vette didn't like making that much power. It broke both axles, and was on its way to taking out the rear and trans. It also dropped a valve due to some shitty (I wont mention their name) aftermarket rockers. It got serious valve float over 6400 rpm and took out two valves, a piston, and banged up the head a bit. Now with an even bigger cam it gets zero valve float all the way up to 7400 rpm with HS stock modded rockers. After all that and the fact that swapping out the IRS and weak drive train would cost more then a new car the decision was made. Gotta sell it.
I pulled the motor and put a stock motor with a 640 lift cam and ported the heads myself. Made 435RWHP through the A6 trans. He was happy and I got to keep my motor.
Now I had to find a car to put it in and I already knew what it would be.
This!
Then a buddy offered to trade me his 1990 Notch for my Jeep. So then I decided that would be a better home for the motor.
This is what I originally built the motor for. The Vette didn't like making that much power. It broke both axles, and was on its way to taking out the rear and trans. It also dropped a valve due to some shitty (I wont mention their name) aftermarket rockers. It got serious valve float over 6400 rpm and took out two valves, a piston, and banged up the head a bit. Now with an even bigger cam it gets zero valve float all the way up to 7400 rpm with HS stock modded rockers. After all that and the fact that swapping out the IRS and weak drive train would cost more then a new car the decision was made. Gotta sell it.
I pulled the motor and put a stock motor with a 640 lift cam and ported the heads myself. Made 435RWHP through the A6 trans. He was happy and I got to keep my motor.
Now I had to find a car to put it in and I already knew what it would be.
This!
Then a buddy offered to trade me his 1990 Notch for my Jeep. So then I decided that would be a better home for the motor.
03-31-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Nasty
The idea behind this build was to make a true street car that could run 8s with ease. So far with the little testing we have done I believe this should not be a problem. Car still has heat, wipers, all working lights, Over dive with a cruise speed of roughly 85 MPH @ 2000 RPM and 25 MPG on the highway! Should get better when we put a better exhaust on.
Pretty sweet man!! I loved the look of the Vette, the notch, & especially the Jeep! (And I'm not usually a Jeep guy!!!) That Stang has gotta be a hell of a lot of fun to drive... 
04-01-2012, 12:08 AM
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Dang, I looked right past that... 
I could see it running 11s without a power-adder, even 10s on a good day - but 8s are a WHOLE different ballgame!Black Nasty - I think we need some clarification/more info??
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04-01-2012, 12:33 AM
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04-01-2012, 04:50 PM
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My plan was to run EASY 8s on NITROUS. And with 865 RWHP on just a 200 shot, in a car weighing around 2600 lbs (maybe less) I don't see this being a problem. If this car ran an 11. anything I would set it on fire at the end of the track and never attempt to build another car again.
Here is what it looks like now. This was taken in the staging lanes.
Last edited by Black Nasty; 04-01-2012 at 06:26 PM.
04-01-2012, 04:53 PM
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Here read this one more time and I will bold some important stuff you may have missed.
LS2 402 stroker -
Eagle 4.00 stroker crank, Comp star 6.125 rods, weisco forged pistons, king coated crank and rod bearings, cometic head gaskets, ARP rod and main studs, melling high volume oil pump, Fast #60 injectors LXR LS7 Fully CNC ported heads with PAC .700 lift double valve springs, ,LS1-GT21 243 / 259 .691" / .702" 1.8 ratio 112, harlen sharp 1.8 moded stock rockers, 11:2.1 compression
04-01-2012, 05:02 PM
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Here are some pics from the start of the project.
This was the begining of the wiring nightmares. I wanted to retain as much of the stock Mustang wiring as possible so I didnt have to rewire the head light, brake lights, turn signals, high and low beams, wipers, wiper timer, wiper sprayer, etc. It sucked. I also used this oppertunity to replace the heater core and remove the AC evap core.
A lot was done on the chassis when I got it but unfortunately most of it had to be redone. Every thing was out of wack and in stalled wrong. The cage and mini tubes were however done really well! The car had no rust anywhere! I was very pleased with my decision to trade. I had over $20,000 in reciepts just for parts from the guy who gave me the car. Prob had a total of 30k in the chassis alone. So eventhough I had to redo everything it was worth it.
This was the begining of the wiring nightmares. I wanted to retain as much of the stock Mustang wiring as possible so I didnt have to rewire the head light, brake lights, turn signals, high and low beams, wipers, wiper timer, wiper sprayer, etc. It sucked. I also used this oppertunity to replace the heater core and remove the AC evap core.
A lot was done on the chassis when I got it but unfortunately most of it had to be redone.
Every thing was out of wack and in stalled wrong. The cage and mini tubes were however done really well! The car had no rust anywhere! I was very pleased with my decision to trade. I had over $20,000 in reciepts just for parts from the guy who gave me the car. Prob had a total of 30k in the chassis alone. So eventhough I had to redo everything it was worth it. 
04-01-2012, 05:30 PM
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Getting the LS motor to fit in the engine bay was easy as a few bolts on the AJE tublar k member. Had I run the stock LS7 style intake it would have cleared the stock fox hood no problem. The trans wasnt nearly as bad as I thought either. I had to make some room for the shaft that holds the shifter lever on the 4l80 but other then that it fit! Kinda. lol It was real close to everything. The poly mounts at the engine and trans were just stiff enough to keep it from hitting under hard accelleration.
Also to clear a couple things up about the 4l80 swap. If you go full manual valve body you MUST buy a shifter that has 4 speeds. It has D 3 2 1 most shifters have provisions for 3 2 1. You could use it but you would not have first gear and that would not be good.
Also if you plan to go with a 4l80 and want to do the shift kit yourself it can be done. Just make sure you have a good manual and lots of patiences. You might need to make a special tool if you dont have trans tools also but not a big deal.
Another thing I'd like to point out is this trans aside from a good converter, cooler, and shift kit is other wise stock and so far so good. I will let you know how it holds up to some nearly 900 RWHP launches next week. So far on the street it performs awesome!
Also to clear a couple things up about the 4l80 swap. If you go full manual valve body you MUST buy a shifter that has 4 speeds. It has D 3 2 1 most shifters have provisions for 3 2 1. You could use it but you would not have first gear and that would not be good.
Also if you plan to go with a 4l80 and want to do the shift kit yourself it can be done. Just make sure you have a good manual and lots of patiences. You might need to make a special tool if you dont have trans tools also but not a big deal.
Another thing I'd like to point out is this trans aside from a good converter, cooler, and shift kit is other wise stock and so far so good. I will let you know how it holds up to some nearly 900 RWHP launches next week. So far on the street it performs awesome!
04-01-2012, 06:21 PM
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This is the motor sitting in the car for the first time. Then it was time to see how I was going to run the wiring harness for the Fast System. I ended up mounting it to the side of the trans tunnel on the passenger side out of the way of the passengers foot area.
I mounted the other box (XIM) behind the radio area.
Next it was on to the headers. I looked around for someone who made 2" primairy fox body swap headers and I could only find one place...BRP Muscle Rods. I was hesitant to order after hearing so many bad things about other companies and the fact that I only use American Racing and Kooks for just about everything we do. But let me tell you I was very happy with these headers! They looked awesome right out of the box with the Jet hot coating inside and out. The fitment could not have been much better especially considering I had a 4l80 which these were not ment for.
After bolting them up, which they did with no problem, I had only 2 small problems to deal with. One was they just touched the shifter arm on the trans so when going through the gears you could feel it hitting on the collector. I had to grand the am down a little then make a tiny dent on the collector to make for great clearence. The second problem was the steering shaft didnt quite clear. Seemed like a huge problem at first but what I ended up doing was just making a longer shaft and pushing the steering joint at the top back toward the firewall a bit. Having the flaming river manual rack made this pretty easy. Might not be so simple with power steering.
Here is what they look like from under the car.
04-04-2012, 02:32 PM
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Ok so in these pics you can see how well the stock f body oil pan works witht he AJE tublar k member. I also fabbed up my own longer pick up tube and baffeling system in the pan, with a trap door, and deflectors. So far seems to work great. You can also see how tight the trans fits. It's millimeters from hitting in a few spots but the mounts are pretty solid and after a week of beating on it on the street I see no marks where it rubs.
The steering shaft is REAL close to. At first it was rubbing even after I made a new shaft for it but after a quick shim under the steering colum it cleared. It's still close but works fine and with the jet hot coating inside and out it stays pretty cool.
One of my favorite things about the whole car has to be the Nitrous Outlet custom spray bar set up done by Nitro Dave. It's super clean and makes power #s that can only be described as magic with this combo! With a little programing via the FAST system it made an astonishing 865 RWHP on a 200 shot and has plenty more in it. And yes I double checked the Jet to make sure someone didnt put a 300 in by accident. It's definitely the 200 jet.
There is still some cleaning up to do but everything works and works well. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
The steering shaft is REAL close to. At first it was rubbing even after I made a new shaft for it but after a quick shim under the steering colum it cleared. It's still close but works fine and with the jet hot coating inside and out it stays pretty cool.
One of my favorite things about the whole car has to be the Nitrous Outlet custom spray bar set up done by Nitro Dave. It's super clean and makes power #s that can only be described as magic with this combo! With a little programing via the FAST system it made an astonishing 865 RWHP on a 200 shot and has plenty more in it. And yes I double checked the Jet to make sure someone didnt put a 300 in by accident. It's definitely the 200 jet.
There is still some cleaning up to do but everything works and works well. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
Last edited by Black Nasty; 04-04-2012 at 03:13 PM.
04-04-2012, 07:13 PM
#19
Im not gonna lie i think i like the helmet better than the car. But the car still looks badass should get down the strip well. Do you have a link where you got your helmet.