1965 impala ls3 t56 swap
04-17-2013, 06:45 AM
#24
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Thanks guys!, the oil pan is a holley pan, and I notched the frame to make clearance for the engine drop, and the headlights are factory BMW headlights that I fabricated to work in the factory headlight housings, so to adjust them you can use the factory adjustment screws.it was defiantly a pain in the ***!! Lol
04-17-2013, 09:35 AM
#27
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I had to cut the impala headlight mounts
And cups to get these to fit, and I had to break a lot of the BMW plastic off the BMW lights to get them to fit in my housings properly, took about 6 hrs to get it all to work out, looking at the back of the headlights in the car it doesn't look super nice but, I boxed it in so u really can't see it.they do however work perfect and look great at night
And cups to get these to fit, and I had to break a lot of the BMW plastic off the BMW lights to get them to fit in my housings properly, took about 6 hrs to get it all to work out, looking at the back of the headlights in the car it doesn't look super nice but, I boxed it in so u really can't see it.they do however work perfect and look great at night
04-17-2013, 11:56 AM
#29
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Belair...for the life of me I couldn't find a Biscayne when I put this together.
Not trying to thread highjack...just brought back a lot of memories from when I put it together in 1982.
(Mine has a 5-speed...Nash "crash box")
Again I appologize for the highjack...this thing is just so close to how I did mine 30 years ago...
Not trying to thread highjack...just brought back a lot of memories from when I put it together in 1982.
(Mine has a 5-speed...Nash "crash box")
Again I appologize for the highjack...this thing is just so close to how I did mine 30 years ago...
Last edited by CattleAc; 04-17-2013 at 09:54 PM. Reason: I can't spell.
04-17-2013, 08:28 PM
#31
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Very nice, I am taking notes for my own 65....
For the T56 did you need to cut the tunnel as much as the guys need to in an A-body?
I am also going to do something with the dash because my wires/gauges are trashed...so do mind posting a pic of what you did?
For the T56 did you need to cut the tunnel as much as the guys need to in an A-body?
I am also going to do something with the dash because my wires/gauges are trashed...so do mind posting a pic of what you did?
05-07-2013, 09:42 PM
#33
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sorry for not much updating, been chasing an electrical gremlin, under heavy load my motor would break up, after replacing coils,plugs,wires and what not i found it to be a loose connection inside the coil pack extention harness
02-08-2015, 12:39 AM
#37
02-08-2015, 12:58 AM
#38
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I will say that my LS2 has the GTO accessories (same as Vette, etc? I dunno) But my alternator is on Driver side on the bottom, and if I didn't raise my engine, I would have had to notch the frame there or it would hit for sure.
02-09-2015, 08:31 AM
#39
I'm cornfused, how come you notched the crossmember if it would clear before when you moved the mounts 2" higher? I know you said a few posts above that you did this to get the engine in lower?
02-09-2015, 10:20 AM
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I think it was to get that intake to clear the hood. Although I can't imagine its much taller than the truck intake. My motor w/truck intake just barely clears the hood, there's like 1/2in in clearance. Im might end up notching the frame in the end though, not sure yet. It will depend on whether I can get a good driveshaft angle...not a whole lot of room to manuver the 4l80e, and Id rather mess with the frame than the floor (And think it would be more effective).