Help, Clutch won’t disengage with swap setup.
08-30-2020, 08:05 PM
#1
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Help, Clutch won’t disengage with swap setup. Looking for any insight on how to get my clutch working on the swap in my 53 Chevy truck. The clutch will not disengage on its own. The setup isn’t exactly normal so there isn’t really anything out there. Everything is mounted under the floor of the truck so the master is just slightly lower than the slave. Here are the parts
-LSA/TR6060 setup out of a CTS-V
-New first gen CTS-V slave cylinder
-.750” wilwood master cylinder
-Clutch line is a banjo bolt to -4 adapter on the master, then a -4 line to an adapter on the slave hard line. I used a brake line bender to put a tight bend in the slaves hard line.
Here is a video of what I am experiencing.
if anyone is curious why I’m running a first gen slave, it’s because the second gen doesn’t have a bleeder on it. They measured the same height, the slaves have the same casting numbers and but gens use a dual mass clutch.
-LSA/TR6060 setup out of a CTS-V
-New first gen CTS-V slave cylinder
-.750” wilwood master cylinder
-Clutch line is a banjo bolt to -4 adapter on the master, then a -4 line to an adapter on the slave hard line. I used a brake line bender to put a tight bend in the slaves hard line.
Here is a video of what I am experiencing.
if anyone is curious why I’m running a first gen slave, it’s because the second gen doesn’t have a bleeder on it. They measured the same height, the slaves have the same casting numbers and but gens use a dual mass clutch.
08-31-2020, 06:04 PM
#3
Unhook the master from the pedal and make sure your pedal hardware is not overtightened / binding. It should swing freely.
While it's unhooked, compress the master without using the pedal. It should be returning to starting point. If it's not, you may have fluid blockage. The master should be able to flow fluid back into the reservoir and that's an internal issue, but possibly caused by outside assembly (placing the travel of the piston of the master incorrectly relative to the return hole.)
Also, issues in your line assembly could be the location of an issue. A master forcing pressure past something is stronger than the returned fluid.
If that all checks out, hang a light return spring on the pedal to pull it back to mid-way. The clutch PP fingers should press on the bearing, compress the slave and return the master / pedal to the starting point, but you have a hefty pedal, linkage, gravity, and fluid path of travel different than stock. I wouldn't be deadest on adding a spring on a stock hanging style pedal, but your setup may benefit from it.
You appear to have a good amount of TO brg travel and your clutch could very likely be disengaging properly. Pedal doesn't return is how I'd phrase this issue.
While it's unhooked, compress the master without using the pedal. It should be returning to starting point. If it's not, you may have fluid blockage. The master should be able to flow fluid back into the reservoir and that's an internal issue, but possibly caused by outside assembly (placing the travel of the piston of the master incorrectly relative to the return hole.)
Also, issues in your line assembly could be the location of an issue. A master forcing pressure past something is stronger than the returned fluid.
If that all checks out, hang a light return spring on the pedal to pull it back to mid-way. The clutch PP fingers should press on the bearing, compress the slave and return the master / pedal to the starting point, but you have a hefty pedal, linkage, gravity, and fluid path of travel different than stock. I wouldn't be deadest on adding a spring on a stock hanging style pedal, but your setup may benefit from it.
You appear to have a good amount of TO brg travel and your clutch could very likely be disengaging properly. Pedal doesn't return is how I'd phrase this issue.
08-31-2020, 06:56 PM
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Got it figured out. Was the factory restricter in the plastic part of the factory line. I don’t know if it was because I had the restricter in the wrong way or if it was just an issue for the setup. Just pulled it out and now it’s working as it should
Last edited by eviltwin_1987; 08-31-2020 at 07:56 PM.
09-01-2020, 09:40 AM
#5
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Glad you got it working. One thing I noticed that was odd, is that your feed is on top and the bleeder is on the bottom. Generally, you want the bleeder above the feed, because you want the air bubbles to float to the top.
Andrew
Andrew
09-02-2020, 06:34 PM
#6
That's normal for the CTS-V slave. As long as the slave (trans.) is mounted straight up and the bleeder accesses the top of the fluid containment area so the air flows out, that's fine. Somewhere around here, there are pics of an (F / Y / GTO w/ bleeder on top) slave bandsawed in half.
09-02-2020, 07:14 PM
#7
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That's normal for the CTS-V slave. As long as the slave (trans.) is mounted straight up and the bleeder accesses the top of the fluid containment area so the air flows out, that's fine. Somewhere around here, there are pics of an (F / Y / GTO w/ bleeder on top) slave bandsawed in half.
Im glad you got it working.