chevellechad

iTrader: (6)

I am mocking up the ls1 on my frame. I am using a CTSV pan, 1 inch setback conversion plates on my original engine mounts. Had a 283 engine originally.

It fits almost perfect, just needs to be raised almost 1/2 inch so the back of the pan doesn't touch the crossmember. it appears that raising it 1/2 inch will make it so the inner tie rod zerks don't hit the pan either.

I plan on buying flat stock metal or aluminum and raising the engine mount on the frame. In between the crossmember and lower mount.

Any problems with doing it that way?

Fulton

It will hold it in place, the problem may come from the clearance on the body. I just finished putting one in my 66 Chevelle. I used an F body pan. The engine mounts put it just high enough to clear the zerk fittings and back just far enough to clear the cross member. It fit great on the frame. But, the body didn't fit so well. I had to cut out the tunnel and massage it for the 4L60E to fit. I have about 1 inch of clearance on the passenger side head to the firewall. I also have to lift the body off of the frame about 4 inches to get the engine/transmission out as a unit. Big PITA.

Please learn from me, make sure the body fits over it before you spend any time painting or doing any metal work on the floor/tunnel.

chevellechad

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the info. From the specs on the F-Body vs the CTS-V pan, it appears I may be able to push the engine away from the firewall, which might help.. The deep part of the pan is 1 inch shorter than the F-body

How far back did you put the engine from stock location? Currently mine is 1 inch back.

Fulton

You may be ok with tunnel clearance as well if it is moved far forward.

That one inch difference in pans would allow me to not have to unbolt the body to remove the engine/trans.

I'm not sure how far back from the original location mine currently sits. I am using BRP mounts from their engine mount/crossmember/header kit from Summit. I think their instructions said it was an inch. I had to grind off a little bit of metal on the steering gear and alternator to make use of the f-body accessory mounts.

I had some problem with that kit, there was no kit listed for a convertible, which required cutting up the cross member. The headers cleared everything, but the collector isn't parallel with the transmission. It angles about 5 degrees lower than parallel.

I look forward to seeing more of your build.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

I used a piece of 3/8 flat steel and 1/8 diamond plate steel welded together and bolted them between my frame and engine frame stands to lift the motor up and have not had any problems.

john 67

I would get the body back on the car for a while . I used an f body ( s&p ) pan and have a 4l80e trans. I didnt have to do anything with the tunnel except clearence one area where one of the electrical plugs was hitting . as far as i know the f body pan is the shallowest up front near the tie rods . JOHN

chevellechad

iTrader: (6)

The body is on a rotisserie right now. It is not ready to be put on the body at the moment. Once I am done with the bottom, welding patch panels, I will test fit the body. I want to do as much as I can while it is off. Since I need help to put it back on.

Did you set it back 1 inch like mine? Is the firewall clearance OK?

superdave84

That's exactly how I did mine. The trick is to get the engine exactly where you want it...here is what I did:

1. Bolt the engineside mounts onto the engine

2. Get the engine exactly where you want it (on the cherrypicker)

3. Run bolts through the motor mounts (bolt the frameside mounts to the engineside mounts)

4. Check for clearance everywhere. Bolt the headers, etc on too

5. Allow the frameside mounts to flop over and touch the frame at the top edge of the mount

6. Tack the top edge of the frameside mount to the frame

7. Carefully remove the engine

8. Weld in your extra pieces of steel all around the frameside mount

9. Put the engine back in and check for clearances again




Sorry for the ugly welds. I hit them with a grinder before paint and they look great now.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am also using a CTS-V pan, yes the part of the pan that slopes between the front and rear sump is a problem that well cause you to either move the engine back or raise the engine.... or a combination of both.

To raise my engine, I used some tall and narrow engine mount and modified the frame stands to fit the narrower mounts. I also moved the engine back . I am using the early style of mounts. Also cut the top of the trans tunnel of and rebuilt it higher.

BC

chevellechad

iTrader: (6)

I have been seeing people mention the tall and narrow engine mounts. Would it be the same as putting a 1/2 thick piece of metal under the frame mounts? Instead of having to buy those and then modify the frame mounts.

SuperDave: Interesting how you only raised one side of the frame mount. I was assuming I would put a square flat piece of metal under the entire frame mount. That might move it in as well as up, so it might not work the way I was thinking. Thanks for the insight.

superdave84

Yeah we actually thought the same thing, but once we had the engine placed where we wanted, it just made sense to tack it in place where it was instead of trying to measure a million times and hope that the engine was positioned correctly when all was said and done. The way we did it was fast and easy and accurate.

speedracer565

what set up did u use for your alternator., mine is on a 66 chevelle and the alt. is on the bottem and it hits my steering box, my motor came out of a camaro , so im told to get the corvette setup , not sure if that is correct

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Since this has been bumped, how is the build coming along?

I have both the ctsv pan & an fbody pan. Anyone notch their frame for better clearance? I only ask this as it isn't hard to do and I only have a regular ol 66 Malibu/chevelle 2dr hardtop so value isn't anything compared to a true ss car if anything isn't original. If I had an SS, I wouldn't notch the frame at all or the tranny tunnel.

On my setup, I am going to use the original fbody engine mounts and make some new frame mounts as i had the wrong frame mounts for my car. Got this idea from another A body build here. I may notch the frame to have more clearance but maybe not.