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Rebuilding Dad's Panoz; LS1 swap

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Old 09-26-2012, 10:01 PM
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Dug into my Z06 to deal with the failed lifters and found out just how much metal went through the motor. Pulled the motor for rebuild and am now back to work on the Panoz.





Katech manual tensioner added. Not much to the front end of the motor.... KISS


Coilpacks bolted up and C5 shorty header being test fit.


New 22 gallon ATL cell
Old 09-27-2012, 09:22 AM
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Awesome build. that is such a cool car.
Old 09-27-2012, 04:21 PM
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Very nice build.
Old 09-28-2012, 10:31 AM
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I'm impressed, very nice build. The old engine looks someone got POed and started swinging away with a heavy sledge hammer. You're fortunate the damage seems contained to the motor, but... ouch.

I'm definitely following this build, as I've got roughly the same drive train setup in mine.
Old 09-30-2012, 09:55 PM
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The tedious hole filling and steet metal repair is done. Anything shiny is filled hole. Getting it back to a clean slate before powdercoat.






Old 10-03-2012, 01:47 PM
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damn nice build!!
Old 10-14-2012, 06:54 PM
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Putting my broken LS6 to good use test fitting the engine/trans.


Need to fab mounts. Going make an adapter plate and use a Jeep CJ7 poly mount.



Removed the old riveted heat shielding from the trans tunnel and welded all the holes up.

Old 10-22-2012, 08:27 PM
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Old dash panel full of holes dents removed.


New dash panel installed. Need to grind some of the welds down a bit. Added another piece of angle iron to support the left side.
Old 10-28-2012, 09:28 PM
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After much trial and error the engine mounts are done. Used a Prothane poly mount for a Jeep CJ7 and was able to make an adapter plate to use the existing pedestal on the chassis.






Engine as far back as it can go. Bellhousing clears nicely.


Shifter lines up in the existing tunnel cover.
Old 11-05-2012, 10:48 PM
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Somewhat copied the battery cutoff mount from the Panoz GTS and added the passenger side fire pull.


Driver's side fire pull
Old 11-06-2012, 01:53 AM
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gotta love those ceramic 5.0 blocks!!! haha, it should be awesome once the LS swap is complete though!
Old 11-10-2012, 04:15 PM
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New window net mount tabs for the Joe's Racing mount kit.



Harnessbar fabbed and installed. Thanks to my buddy Mills for the help cutting and welding on this one.



Finally time to head off to powdercoat.
Old 11-18-2012, 06:48 PM
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Decided to clean up the passenger side floor before powdercoating. Over the years extra seat mount bars where added haphazardly to fit various seats. Cut them out and filled all the holes leaving the originals.







Cut out the area where the remote shifter went.


Last edited by Cobra4B; 11-19-2012 at 11:14 PM.
Old 12-02-2012, 07:59 PM
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Stock 40k mile clutch from my old yellow Z06. Have had this thing in my shed for like 7 years. Nothing wrong with it, but was having my rear diff replaced under warranty and took that time to put in a Luk Stage-II clutch with a Fidanza flywheel; driveline has to be removed for both jobs.

After 7 years in a box in my shed.


After some elbow grease with a wirewheel and scouring pad.


Clutch along with lightweight flywheel. Taking it all to get the flywheel resurfaced and the assembly balanced tomorrow.
Old 12-10-2012, 10:17 PM
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Resurfaced light weight chromoly flywheel


Less than .001" runout on bellhousing face


Max rotational runout of bellhousing center bore vs. crank centerline .003". Max tolerance .005"... good to go!


Now to install the clutch and mate with the gearbox

Last edited by Cobra4B; 12-11-2012 at 08:32 AM.
Old 12-11-2012, 12:33 PM
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Calipers refreshed and ready for pickup from Hayworth Racing Brakes. Had the old powdercoat stripped off down to the original hard-coat anodizing. Calipers were inspected and rebuilt with new seals and hardware. Fresh decals too.



Old 12-12-2012, 04:58 PM
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Very nice build! Looks like it's gonna be a blast when it's all put together.

Just an FYI, blocking off the heater core ports entirely will affect the coolant flow. It's better to connect them together with something like this:

Old 12-12-2012, 06:55 PM
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T-stat has holes in it to allow coolant flow between the circuits when it's closed. When it opens it blocks the bypass circuit and flows through the cooling circuit just fine.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...mmersRadReview



In this system:

1. The water pump pumps coolant out of the lower two ports on its back side and into the block.

2. Coolant circulates through the engine block...

3. ... and through the cylinder heads.

4. The steam tubes carry steam and a small amount of coolant to the top of the radiator where the steam is separated from the coolant and collects just beneath the rad cap seal.

5. Coolant returning from the cylinder heads enters the two upper round ports on the left and right back sides of the pump

6. Some coolant circulates through the water pump's bypass circuit and is again pumped back through the engine. This keeps the circuit flowing when the thermostat is closed.

7. Hot coolant exiting from the engine that doesn't follow the pump's internal bypass circuit exits the water pump via the top 1-1/4" port and enters the top of the radiator.

8. Hot coolant flows across and down through the radiator, cooling as it goes.

9. Cooled coolant exits the radiator via the lower 1-1/2" outlet and returns to the inlet side of the water pump.

10. Returning coolant is blocked from re-entering the water pump inlet if the thermostat is closed. When the coolant on the inside (engine side) of the thermostat reaches the temperature of the thermostat (e.g. 190° F) the thermostat opens and the cool coolant enters the water pump inlet to be circulated through the engine again, starting over at #1. Both the "heater in" and "heater out" ports are plugged.

11. In the event of a system over-pressure condition, the rad cap opens and burps excess coolant and steam out of the system to be collected by the overflow tank.

Last edited by Cobra4B; 12-12-2012 at 07:09 PM.
Old 12-14-2012, 12:17 AM
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Surface rust was coming back on the clutch so I painted it with 2000 degree rattle-can.


Installed with ARP hardware... new engine stand came in handy.
Old 12-16-2012, 07:52 PM
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Quartermaster throw-out bearing shimmed and installed.



Got everything put together... ready to go in the chassis.


Got the hubs/brakes off the rear axle finally.




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