Silver Sleeper

iTrader: (7)

i will be using the stock 4.8 truck manifolds on my turbo 4.8 fox and was wondering what alternator bracket location options i have...im running no PS or AC. with flipped stock manifolds is there an option out there that will allow me to run a low mount alternator or a a top mount like on the vette or 4th gen camaro? i do not want to run the truck braket...it sits way too high.


also, have any of you ran a 1 wire alternator on your LSX mustang swaps?

any help is greatly appreciated!!

Crazier

I just did a low mount conversion on my kit car.
Take a look, I assume it transfers over to the 4.8
If it looks like It will work for you I will try to find the part numbers, as the guy whose build I copied had his blog taken down.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...machine-5.html

Silver Sleeper

iTrader: (7)

yes, that may work.. part numbers would be great

thanks

Crazier

its an F body bracket, the stealership can get it easy, or the bone yard., for bolts go to your local fastener suply with original alternator bolts and tell them you need the same things onl 140 MM long

Part numbers I will need to find are jsut for the belt (but you can take a measurement after you get the swap and take it to your parts stores) and the pulley.

for the 3/4 space you should be able to cut the mounting ears from your truck bracket.

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Is that a stock F body alternator and bracket in your thread? I did the exact same thing with the stock F body alternator and bracket, but the belt rubs the lower alternator bolt. How'd you get around that?

Crazier

It's the stock F body bracket, but i'm reusing the alternator off my L33 5.3.

Did you install it all the way? I thought it was going to rub, but once I got the belt actually on and pulled tight it cleared, but only by a couple millimeters.

HOWEVER If yours rubs, What I was going to do was:
A, use a bolt without an integrated washer, and not use a washer, grind two milometers off the bolt head but not so much as to make it hard to take off, just to avoid over grinding the bracket.
B, Grind off the alternator bracket until it didn't rub, might have had to shorten the bolt.
C, make sure to use the middle bolt location on the bracket with a third spacer (i'm using the middle bolt now, but with no spacer, just some washers.
D, purchase and use an actual F body alternator and the second F body bracket (would require a 4th spacer) that bolts to the back of the alternator and the side of the block to make up for the loss in strength from grinding the first bracket down.
E, If you were really worried about stability and durability have the spacers welded onto the back of the bracket.

IF some one needs the second F body bracket, let me know, I bought it but don't need it. and GM wants a %40 restocking fee, so id rather sell it to one of you guys for $15 + shipping.

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

I may be wrong, but it looks like your alternator pulley if a little larger than mine, that may be why yours clears and mine doesn't. Thanks

Crazier

that could be, in that case you would jsut have to get the alt off the truck and it would work

Crazier

Pulley is a gates # 38008
Belt is also gates K060547
The belt fits way to snug, it works but you have to take the alternator off to install it. Pull the tensioner all the way, then put the belt in the groves, once the belt is in the groves you have enough play to easily bolt the alternator in.

1bad03snake

iTrader: (16)

Im using a ls1 alt bracket(truck alt) with only 2 bolts. I drilled/tapped the block and run no PS/AC/idler pulley. Im going to run 6.0 manifolds flipped and facing down with the turbo on the driver side. Im getting my v bands welded to the manifolds right now and the piping should be here monday