badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I'm having the hardest time picking a set-up!

I have looked at American Power Train, Keisler, Mcleod, and piecing it together

They all have their flaws!!

1. APTs firewall bracket is universal and doesnt look like it can live up to the vibration (Bolts becoming loose and losing pedal geometry).
And the TO bearing requires you to re-shim later in the future as the clutch wears. I don't want to be pulling this transmission in the near future.

2. Keisler has the application specific MC bracket, but the TO bearing is funky. It has only one line (How the hell does it bleed?). It has a solid line going to the bearing so initial install is going to be tough.

3. Mcleod...All I see is bearing leaking issues online and they dont have a firewall bracket.

4. OEM pieces are all plastic! But maybe not an issue, but what bearing do you run???

Help!

What have you all done for a hydraulic set-up for a TKO 600 and LS1?

This is alot tougher and a PIA than I thought it would be!!

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

With the Keisler, that one line has two portions. The first portion is flexible/braided, which attaches to the reservior, then blends into a hard line, which attaches to the trans.
The hard line portion has a bleeder screw built in to it. The bleeder screw is completely accessable.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

My concern is once that hard line is installed, I will have a difficult time removing and installing the transmission because of hard line sticking out of the bell. Easily damaged for the initial eng/trans install and difficulty if I ever need to pull the trans alone

Addtionally I know the line has a bleeder in it, but ALL other bearings I have seen have a input and bleed port. How does air come out when your pushing fluid through?

I know going fast cost money, but that kit is expensive too. I looked up some of the parts individually and they are not expensive parts.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Why is the information so lacking on the web????

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I see.
Yes, removing & installing that hardline can be difficult.
So far, I've R&R'd the engine & tranny at the same time...never have I removed the tranny separately. When the engine & tranny are moved forward somewhat, for removal, there's enough slack in the hydraulic line to access it & disconnect it. Likewise, in reverse, when reinstalling engine & tranny.
One alternative is to remove the hardline at the slave cyl. Then remove the tranny & hardline together, as a unit.
Just a heads up...the tranny to engine bolts that Keisler supplies, are Allen type bolts. At least, mine were. You'll never be able to remove the tranny separately, with these bolts. I bought standard head bolts to replace the Allens.
I'm looking at the directions for bleeding the fluid. Air is evacuated through one bleeder screw. The compression of fluid through the line will force the air out, completely. It is possible there will be a bit of air left, after usage. Repeat the bleeding procedure.
My clutch works smoothly, & perfectly. It's the best system I've ever owned.
You're right about the price. It's not inexpensive. But I bought it because it puts the shifter in the stock location.
One final note...When you're buying, cust service is great. However, when you need tech support, or a part, I've found that phone tag is the name of the game. There's usually only one guy answering phones...and he's always on the phone.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

I have a Mcleod TOB (1364?) on my TKO600. It works fine. I have a Willwood .75" universal master cylinder (I chose Willwood because someone made an adapter plate for my chassis) with some adapters to go from the 3/16 outlet to the AN fitting required for the TOB.

The inline bleeder works, just not as fast. I've had to bleed brakes by opening lines and hoses because the caliper bleeder screws were broken off. It takes a while, but it works.

The internet can't answer all your questions. Sometimes you just have to figure it out for yourself. The TKO is not a popular choice for the LS1. Most go with the T56 or a mushbox. Anywhere the TKO is popular, cable, mechanical, and external hydraulic options are usually viable (and much cheaper).


Also, if you haven't bought a TKO yet, read up on the 3rd gear issue. I suggest picking up a pre-modded unit from Liberty or the like.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for serving us so well!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Yes, I was looking into the same Mcleod TO bearing. Too many leak gripes on the web and here. Not to mention I contacted Summit Racing and surprise...it's flagged as a "High Returned Item" so No Mcleod for me....

What external slave would work for the push SBC clutch? I only found ones that pulled like the LT1 clutch

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Oh yea...I already have the TKO trans. It was with my SBC set-up. T56 maybe one day...

KeislerChris

Bleeding our system is actually fairly easy, it just requires (2) people, one at the bleeder screw, another to work the clutch pedal. Basically, the system gets filled with fluid, the bleeder is cracked open, and the clutch pedal gets depressed and held to the floor, then the bleeder is closed. This process is repeated several times until bleeding is done. Install is tricky, but not impossible. Our TO bearing is very robust and doesn't suffer the leaking issues associated with the McLeod unit, and ours does not require additional shimming after time, as our shims are 1/4" billet aluminum. We utilize a .75" bore Wilwood master cylinder, and manufacture our own vehicle-specific firewall mounts to ensure optimum pedal geometry. Thanks!

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Yes, exactly. I have the Kiesler HTOB and it doesn't allow the trans to be pulled separately from the bell. It also has a funky metric bubble flair. I don't know about you but bubble flairs aren't exactly reusable over and over.

The one thing I really didn't like is they also machined down the HTOB casing itself to get it to fit through the bell and in the process really cut into the hydraulic connection threads.

The single bleeder thing works fine. I had to make my own hardlines cause I didn't buy their full kit (hence the problem finding the metric bubble flair fitting). I T'd the line going into the bell and ran a 1 foot flexible AN line off of that to a speed bleeder that I mounted at the bottom of the trans. Bleeding the thing is a 1 man, 5 minute job. Every trans ought to be done the same way.

I will say the Kiesler solution has worked flawlessly for 3 or 4 years now.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

You can reference my build thread as to what I did. I used the Keisler firewall mount with a TOB from Quarter Master. I am using a Richmond 6 speed, but it will work exactly the same with your TKO.

Andrew

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

You can buy their part seperatly?

KeislerChris

You can.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I sent you a PM