CutLS

iTrader: (6)

I have a '72 Cutlass receiving an LS1. I'm installing an E-Z Wiring fuse block and a Vintage Air kit. My first question is what do I do with the ignition coil wire from the switch to the fuse block. Since I don't have an ignition coil like the old 350, can I eliminate hooking that wire up to the switch and can use that fuse location for something else?

My second question is about my electric rear defogger. I would like to be able to use it in case the rear window fogs up but since my Vintage Air doesn't have a rear defogger button I need to rewire it. Looking at the manual it shows that the switch receives power through a 3 amp fuse to a relay to the switch and the defogger gets power through the junction block at 30 amps and through the relay to the defogger. It talks about generator output of 63 Amps and it gets power from that and I'm not sure if it can work with the higher output of the new alternator. Will it still work or doesn't that matter? I should be able to hook it up with a switch fuses and a relay and it should work, am I correct?. Also on the harness I removed, there is a radio condenser hooked to ground from the voltage regulator that shares the power lead with the defogger. Do I need to keep this hooked up even though its not inline with the defogger?

SomeDude1

well im not an electrician and im drunk atm but voltage is voltage. as long as the amps of the new alternator is equal to or higher than the original then there will be no problem with the heated back glass. as for the radio noise reducer, it never hurts to have one. but not needed with any alternator mid 90's and up unless there is any bat + feed to the radio that you have tied into or close to the alternator and or alternator cable.

71403

I think the '72 rear defog was a latching relay setup from the factory, just retain it as-is. Might consider using one of the newer (80's style) rear defog switches that is current sensing and will shut off the rear defog once the window is clear (warmed up).

An alternator does not "push" power into a load - there is no such thing as too large of an alternator.

The condenser was there to dampen any noise from the vibrator style regulator that was stock in '72. You can eliminate it.

CutLS

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I had noticed a vibration noise when I used it. What year sensing switch would work or is that something I would need to see the wiring diagram to determine?