Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know the breakdown of a C5 fuel regulator/fuel filter?

I mean, there is ?psi from the inline Walbro 255lph fuel pump going into the bigger of the 2 male ends on the filter & on the other side is outlet regulated down at 60ish psi going to the engine, does anyone know what the psi & flow info is on the return line of this C5 reg/filter?

I'm doing an experiment on my LS swap & I need a way to tap into the fuel line & instead of using an actual brass barb "T" fitting I thought it might be slick if i could use the return line instead of the main line.

Depending on what the answer of the above question is, would it work to have 2 regulators on the same fuel line? I mean I'll be using the factory 6.0L truck intake that has the input & return on the intake along with the regulator but if i put this C5 regulator/filter in line as well will it screw with the regulator at the engine? I mean will it still function properly?

Thanks!

Bo185

You'll have problems flow wise with the two regulators.

Its a waste of time. Just run one or the other. No point in two. You could always just get the later returnless truck rails. Should beabel to get them or a whole intake for cheap! Then just run the vette filter/reg.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If you use the vette regulator you can cap off the return line on the rail. You can't check pressure on the return line, as there shouldn't be enough to register on a good gauge. If there was, you would have a restriction in the line and the pressure to the engine would go too high. If you have the return style rail, just use that regulator and the correct plumbing for it.

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

Bo, the flow was my major concern w/ the 2 regs.

LS1, that makes sense as well considering its just going back into the tank and there shouldn't be any pressure.

Let me explain a bit on what i'm trying to do, (don't judge me lol) - This engine is going into an old 54 Ford that is bagged, custom, fender skirts the whole 9 yards, & I'm going to have flame throwers on it out the exhaust. Only problem is the EFI won't run rich enough to do it so what they do is tap into the fuel line & spray fuel into the pipes via n2o/fuel solenoid & nozzle behind the O2's/cats etc so the engine doesn't even know thats happening, I'm workin on a system that is stand alone sparker so i don't have to tap into any ignition wires as well. I'm just trying to find a good way to tap into the fuel line along the frame rails back by the tank to be able to do all this.

Make sense?

74novacustom

Other than a seperate one gallon tank fuel system mounted in the back i would say you could tap off of the fuel line if its AN easily. just install a tee and down size to -4 or -3 to the Solenoid. And you can do that a foot from the Reg.

Or tap off of the Fuel Rail. run a 16ft NOS -4 line to the back. But for that i would run a Solenoid at the fuel rail and at the back. That way you dont have fuel sitting in the line under pressure for no reason.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Seems like a lot of work for something as simple as flame throwers!

I just saw a flamethrower kit on Speedway Motors' site that handles the spark side and it wasn't expensive. They had a single and dual version.

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

yep thats true but any kit you can buy still has to have something trigger it, aka points opening or closing etc. Thats why i've made my own idea for the spark, simple flip of the switch & continous spark in back. I'll post pics of what i've done when its finished

Either way, yeah its alot of work just to be crazy lol

74modified

If I was going to do this, I would T the supply line to the Walbro (its not in in-tank is it?) and run a low pressure carb electric pump that would run off of the rest of the flame system electrical. Not sure you need over 50 psi to your flame nozzles.

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

yeah the 50+psi to the noid is excessive thats for sure, i was just going to put a small n20 jet in the nozzle so it doesn't flood the pipes with gas (at least till I get it perfected lol)

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I think the kit has all that. The only thing missing in our world would be extra fuel to make it work.

Check the link to what I'm talking about...

Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha!!!!!

74modified

Here is a link to building a spark box out of Radio Sack parts. I have also seen it done with a pair of relays.
http://www.tnga.org/Tech/flame_throwers.htm

Ksths2

iTrader: (1)

go fast, that kit still gets its trigger from the vehicles ignition system, the switch just kills the engines coil & puts power to the coil for the flame thrower, thats why you need to switch it back before the engine dies completely.

74, your on the right track, between this link & another link I've done very similar.