Fuel Sender AN Fitting - Compression or Weld
09-10-2012, 10:20 PM
#3
I Braze the AN Bung on.. have had good sucess and it is much more secure.. I buy my fitting from a Tubing Shop.. not from an Auto Supply store (or Summit/Jegs)..
a Tip is to buy a 3/8" pipe to AN -6 Adapter. .they are cheaper, I get them for like 3 for $5.00 .. then cut the 3/8" pipe side off, drill a 3/8" hole about 3/16" - 1/4" deep, just large enough for the tubing to be secure once you Braze or Weld.
BC
a Tip is to buy a 3/8" pipe to AN -6 Adapter. .they are cheaper, I get them for like 3 for $5.00 .. then cut the 3/8" pipe side off, drill a 3/8" hole about 3/16" - 1/4" deep, just large enough for the tubing to be secure once you Braze or Weld.
BC
09-11-2012, 12:33 AM
#4
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Reply Do exactly what BCZEE said and you will be much happier. I bought a Russell 640940 fitting and cut the end off . Then drilled the AN fitting to 3/8 of an inch about 1/4 deep and then had a friend of mine TIG weld it on to the fuel sender. I also bought a Russell 640930 fitting and cut the hose part off and drilled the AN part to 5/16 for the return line. Cost of TIG welding the two fittings. A drink at a later date. Looks real good and I feel real safe that way. I did not bother to cut that raised part off on the fuel sender because that would have shortened up the tubing on the sender. All I did was to trim the very ends off (as little as possible) in order for the ends to seat straight in the AN fittings because if you take a look the ends of the sending unit have just a slight taper to them. The taper part is what I cut off.
09-11-2012, 07:28 AM
#5
Solder the fittings. Most OE sending units are soldered together. This is how I removed the factory fittings from my Spectra sending unit and how I installed the proper AN fittings. Clean everything really well, flux and solder them up. If you can solder your copper pipes in your house you can do this yourself.
You can also solder steel(not aluminum) AN fittings to your existing steel fuel line. I used mine as my return line to save from buying expensive braided hose. Just be sure to blow out the lines and let them air dry for at least a week to be absolutely certain they have no gas in them. Use emery paper to clean them 100% and use a good flux and solder.
You can also solder steel(not aluminum) AN fittings to your existing steel fuel line. I used mine as my return line to save from buying expensive braided hose. Just be sure to blow out the lines and let them air dry for at least a week to be absolutely certain they have no gas in them. Use emery paper to clean them 100% and use a good flux and solder.
Last edited by fox12303; 09-12-2012 at 10:17 AM.
09-11-2012, 12:20 PM
#7
He is asking if it is better to Weld on the fitting or use a compression fitting (as you displayed, but he is aware of those).
The preferred way would be to either create and use 37/45 Degree flares and Fittings or attached (Weld, Tig, Braze, Solder) a male/female Bung on for the best and secure fitting. Compression Fitting are at best work, but are simple work arounds when you don't have the means/equipement/parts to do the preferred methods of joinning tubes and hose.
BC
The preferred way would be to either create and use 37/45 Degree flares and Fittings or attached (Weld, Tig, Braze, Solder) a male/female Bung on for the best and secure fitting. Compression Fitting are at best work, but are simple work arounds when you don't have the means/equipement/parts to do the preferred methods of joinning tubes and hose.
BC
Last edited by bczee; 09-11-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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09-11-2012, 01:26 PM
#8
Weld vs compression. I agree, AN compression fittings are not intended for high pressure lines. I believe most are recommended for use on low pressure systems below 25psi. Though the one pictured above looks to say for SS or stainless steel. Welded is the best, then braze/solder but not compression(IMO).
If you don't have a welder or know someone who can weld for you, soldering is an option most people can do even if that means buying the tools to do it. Rather inexpensive vs buying a welder. Only benefit of soldering would be appearance.
Swedge-lock, discussed later in this thread, is a whole differant fitting and yes they are good for many differant applications into the 1000's psi pressure.
If you don't have a welder or know someone who can weld for you, soldering is an option most people can do even if that means buying the tools to do it. Rather inexpensive vs buying a welder. Only benefit of soldering would be appearance.
Swedge-lock, discussed later in this thread, is a whole differant fitting and yes they are good for many differant applications into the 1000's psi pressure.
Last edited by fox12303; 09-13-2012 at 10:42 PM.
09-12-2012, 11:59 AM
#13
I have Brazed and used it on many hardline, Steel is easy to do. I have had to get my Tubing shop to do the Stainles Steel tube for me using Silver rods.
I have used them on the hard lines for Transmission Lines, Feed and Return Fuel Lines and Fuel Rails. I would also suggest on the Fuel sender and pickups. I do not use any of the Quick Disconnect if possible, I will use the AN Bungs if possible.
I find that I really don't disconnect the lines very offen, so why spend on the QD's. And this is much more Secure.
Here is a few shot of where I have used them.
Fuel rail
Fuel line from front to rear.
I am currently working on my Transmission lines, Fuel sender feed and return on my Nova Project.
BC
I have used them on the hard lines for Transmission Lines, Feed and Return Fuel Lines and Fuel Rails. I would also suggest on the Fuel sender and pickups. I do not use any of the Quick Disconnect if possible, I will use the AN Bungs if possible.
I find that I really don't disconnect the lines very offen, so why spend on the QD's. And this is much more Secure.
Here is a few shot of where I have used them.
Fuel rail
Fuel line from front to rear.
I am currently working on my Transmission lines, Fuel sender feed and return on my Nova Project.
BC
09-13-2012, 07:13 AM
#14
Lots of guys including me use Swagelok compression fittings. They are good to about 2000psi and cost about $15. Saying that compression fittings are not intended for high pressure lines is not true. These are used in many industries. http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...t=SS-600-6-6AN
09-13-2012, 11:10 AM
#15
TECH Fanatic
Lots of guys including me use Swagelok compression fittings. They are good to about 2000psi and cost about $15. Saying that compression fittings are not intended for high pressure lines is not true. These are used in many industries. http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...t=SS-600-6-6AN
09-13-2012, 08:37 PM
#16
The original question refers to adding a AN fitting to a steel line at the fuel sender. The Swagelok AN compression fitting is stainless steel and holds very high pressure. I would take a Swagelok AN compression fitting over a home soldered joint any day. They are used by many high end builders. Here is an an example of the same fitting attached to a LS3 fuel rail. The steel line was cut off one inch from the Tee. Then the Swagelok AN compression fitting was slid on the tubing and tightened. Total cost of $15. If it can hold 2000psi then imagine how strong it must be.
Last edited by KENS80V; 09-13-2012 at 08:58 PM.
09-13-2012, 11:15 PM
#17
Brass brazing joint can be in the tens of thousands of psi for tubing and joins, if using silver brazing it is in the hundreds of thousand. All depending on application. Let's just say it is usually stronger than the tubing or metal at times.
Cost of a bulk steel AN bung, about three for $5.00.
So, using a correctly spec'd compression fitting or brazing are both low cost methods and is strong enough If correctly applied.
BC
BC
Cost of a bulk steel AN bung, about three for $5.00.
So, using a correctly spec'd compression fitting or brazing are both low cost methods and is strong enough If correctly applied.
BC
BC
09-14-2012, 05:47 AM
#18
Swedgelock SS-600-6-6N is the part number for 3/8" tube to -6N style line.
Swedgelock SS-500-6-6N is the part number for 5/16" tube to -6N style line. This is a custom order fitting and would take 5-6 weeks to receive.
I suggested soldering on steel AN fittings but had I known of the availibility of these I likely would have used them. If your car came with a 5/16" fuel line you could easily bolt on this fitting to reuse the line as a return. Same goes for 3/8" fuel line.
Swedgelock SS-500-6-6N is the part number for 5/16" tube to -6N style line. This is a custom order fitting and would take 5-6 weeks to receive.
I suggested soldering on steel AN fittings but had I known of the availibility of these I likely would have used them. If your car came with a 5/16" fuel line you could easily bolt on this fitting to reuse the line as a return. Same goes for 3/8" fuel line.
Last edited by fox12303; 09-17-2012 at 08:50 AM.
