BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

I see a lot of primary wire in the wiring by the manifolds. Make sure you cover that up and shield it from any heat. It doesnt stand up to engine bay temps like txl wire does.

Bighatchy

This is going to be so much fun to drive. There's an old mechanic that used to work at my dads shop that had a late 70's early 80's Volvo wagon like that. He had an 80's camaro tpi 305/700r4 combo in it. It was a total sleeper. Even had a stock looking exhaust. That thing would do endless burnouts. My brother did one all the way around our 6 bay shop! This gonna be awesome

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Far as fuel line is concerned, brass compression fittings are good for much more pressure than the 60psi that is used on a ls1. I don't recommend brazing to a fuel line. Brass fittings are easily adapted to any size AN fitting.


http://www.brassfittings.com/faq.php

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. I have a .40 built 327 with a big cam in my 1800 lb Model A Ratrod. It's quick for an old chevy motor, I'm running a single MPT76 on this one, so it's going to be an animal.


Chassis is fully wired and taped (Super 33+), all wiring runs above the brake booster, at least 7-8 inches from manifolds, which will be wrapped.

Lol. Brass solder is the same thing - steel lines, steel weld on -6an fittings. I've been doing it for years on vintage motorcycle gas tanks and it's perfectly safe/fine. Thanks for the wiring diagram by the way, that's exactly what my plan was, except I will be running at least 8 fuses, give or take a few in lines. I don't think the 4-5-6 fuse setup is very smart if you ever have an issue downstream.

Ordered all my fittings, I couldn't find any -6's at work, so I had to order them from Speedway, but they're having a 25% off sale on Aeroquip fittings right now. Score. Going to get the hard lines under the car tomorrow and start laying everything out. As soon as the weld on -6's come in, I'm going to get them brazed on and then I just need injectors.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

This will be a fun wagon! Dig it

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Chassis harness is finished. Everything is tucked behind the driver side strut tower now.

Hard fuel lines are finished. Need to put a few bends in them to conform to the bottom of the car, order the fragola line, fuel labs afpr, still need injectors and a few misc. things and she will be ready to crank.

Fuse blocks showed up today as well, so I'm going to start wiring them up tonight. Keeping all the GM stuff separate from the Volvo to keep it simple.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Some progress today:




Wiring up the motor:

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Why the xxxxx did you totally take your harness apart? You just added a ton of work the building a harness all in the name of streamlining it. ;-)

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

Super 33+ electrical tape is only rated to 80°C (176°F). That will eventually break down, become gooey and fall off. You should use Harness Tape made specifically for under hood temperatures. Just trying to save you some heartache down the road

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Took the harness apart because it's a truck harness, and needed to be thinned. Also, i'm routing it completely different and the pcm will be under the dash.

LS Harness is not getting wrapped (nylon braided loom), only the chassis harness which will see significantly less heat.

Should be done with everything in a few days, I'm waiting to finish a few things before I loom the harness and make everything permanent.

cprmn14

Gunna be a fun car man!

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Mounted the PCM tonight, and dug through some of the factory wiring. Extending all the pink power wires (coils, injectors etc..) so I can mount my fuse block under the dash next to the pcm. So as soon as my relays show up (bought 35 on ebay lol) I can finish all that.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

Awesome project! Can you pleeeease make it as quiet as possible? Total sleeper!

onetype

iTrader: (6)

I'm actually thinking open downpipe, or a single magnaflow. I haven't thought about the exhaust much yet.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Finished extending the wires and wiring to the fuse block.

I ran out of slots so I wired all 8 coils to the same fuse. Should I have any issues? I just ran out of fuse slots. I can always order another block, but I would rather not.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Some more progress:



Cleaned up the pcm wiring and relays/fuse block. Still have to wire some more stuff up, and finish making it look pretty, but it's almost done.



New (used, but new to me) radiator showed up yesterday. I thought it was a 900 series NA radiator, but it's huge. And measured nearly 19" tall. Fitted it and after digging through O'reillys wall of hoses, I found some that will work. - I will have to shorten the upper hose to get it away from the radiator a bit, just wanted to check fitment before cutting a $20 hose.



I'm considering going NA at first to work out all the kinks but need to find a set of manifolds that hug the block and will clear my steering linkage (at a good price obviously).

LS1PoweredBrick

Nice build, im following this. I'm on turbobricks as well. I plan on dropping a LS1/T56 in my 83 242.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Try gto upper radiator hose, less bends.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

I'm on turbobricks as well. I would swap it all over again in a heartbeat. I'm going to swap an Amazon next.

Upper is already cut and fitted. Works for me, has similar bends to old 5.0 uppers. And it keeps it away from the accessories which I like.

Need to take back my lower hose and find something a tad smaller in diameter.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Motor and transmission are back out to install monster stage 3 clutch, flywheel, Fbody shifter cup (I'm running an MGW Fbody shifter in a GTO M6 trans, so this has to be changed to enable 1,3,5,R shift).

Also installed m -3 steel braided clutch line and quick release in the slave. Finished routing some fuel lines, and wiring.

Driveshaft is finished. 3" Aluminum.

FPR and the rest of my fuel line should be here tomorrow.

Battery box showed up as well