BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

The repair crimper that I posted crimps the core and the seal simultaneously and will crimp 16-22Ga wire.

Just be sure it crimps the seal tight enough that it doesnt pull out when you try and insert it into the connector.

If you are using the Gt150 3.5mm connectors the seal crimp actually needs to be an oval instead of round. As you stated in your PM if you need something crimped just let me know. As long as its not a whole bunch and you provide the materials I will crimp them for free just take care of the return shipping.

zukboi2004

so I guess the harness didnt get done? I am feeling my way through a harness n would like to see what wires went into the fuse block n how. The relays? I am wonderining if the rubbing splice would work with all the pink wires n a single fuse?

cam

iTrader: (9)

If you take all the oranges and connect to 12v+bat

all the pinks connect to 12v+ign

ground it properly, disable VATS, Supply fuel, it will run.

Not fancy by any means, but it will work.


Heres how I did my first one;


http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...ll-engine.html

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

You can't argue with the "experts", Bill. They do this for a living too.?!?!?!

Fortunately I'd seen your work and know how much goes into it. I couldn't be happier with my harness.

BTW, to the guy that hung anchors by a butt connector, whoopie, I have mil-spec 550 cord too, but would you trust a single strand to hold your engine? Maybe to prove a point that it can hold it, but not for very long.

zukboi2004

so its the orange wires frome the engine or all the wires from the engine & the pcm to 12v batt
Same with pink?

cam

iTrader: (9)

All yes. Be sure none are dead leads heading off to somewhere not connected though. Easiest thing is to strip the harness down ( remove all the wrap/tape etc. ) and remove the pins right at the PCM you know your not going to use. Super easy to remove you pull the red or blue cap off and with your fingers you can gently pry up the little plastic tab ( careful their weak ) and pull the pin and lead out. I do this to every harness now it only takes about 30 mins with the pin out chart ( they're in the sticky ). I pull out stuff like rear O2's, evap etc.

Im not saying it the best way to go by ganging them together but it will work. I run a new relay and fuse per specs on mine according to the wiring diagram i get printed from Alldata at a friends shop or on one of the boards. Its all about how much time you want to invest, its not very difficult, just go one pin or one sensor at a time.

zukboi2004

I can see how easy that would be.
I am really trying to find out if all the pink wires on a running splice is too much for one fuse. I see some guys do a fuse for coils, injectors, alt, o2's, ECU, fans, trans, almost everything gets a fuse.

I see the swap harnesses have 4 fuses, & two relays.

I am where I havent wired in the fuse block & have a 4 fuse block.
I also have 4 40amp relays. a relay for Main/fuel pump/fan1/fan2..

I know a wire from fuel pump relay control, fan 1 relay control, fan 2 relay control, and the main is the power to all?

this is the pic I am going with but trying to add two relays & figure out what he broke up the three fuses to do?

cam

iTrader: (9)

Id run a single 40 or 50 amp for the feed and one 15 or 20 for the fuel pump, a 20 for the orange, a 20 for the pinks. Should work, but again its not ideal id run a single fuse per hot lead on anything I want to last LOL. In the diagrams there are some already ganged together in most applications like O2's etc. Inj banks usually have one fuse for every four. Relays for Fuel pump, cooling fans, and ign.

zukboi2004

So i figure wire it like this

40amp relay for main with 30amp fuse?
40amp relay for fuel pump off main feed
30amp fuse- Driver coils & injectors
30amp fuse- Pass coils & injectors
30amp fuse- O2 senors
40 amp relay for fan1 of main feed
40 amp relay for fan2 of main feed

sound okay? will i have reason to catch fire?

cam

iTrader: (9)

Relays should be okay but fuses too big. For instance on my last swap ( L92 ) im running 50amp main feed fuse from bat.

inj bank 1 15amp
inj bank 2 15amp
maf 15amp
cooling fan ( single fan ) 15amp
PCM/Ign 15amp
Fuel pump 20 amp
O2's 10 amp
Throttle control 15amp

Anything else is ganged in there somewhere I just cant recall right now i spun this up almost 2yrs back now and this is the notes i have.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify, that's not my pic lol.



For anyone out there looking for supplies to build your harness or do any kind of harness repair work etc. I would stay clear from Delcity.net

My first few orders from them were no problem, ordered and received package a week later or less. Just recently I placed a order for 100 connectors. Almost 2 months went by and no package. Called multiple times and every time they gave some BS date on when they would receive them and ship out. Besides that my other nit pick would be that their tracking service is terrible. They have a separate page where you enter your order number to track the order and it never works. I don't see why they cant just provide the UPS tracking# via email.

Went with Waytek and order was shipped out the same day I placed the order, and I placed the order pretty late in the day too.. +1 for Waytek I will be ordering from them again.

cam

iTrader: (9)

eficonnection is a great place to source factory grade comopnents and connectors too. Plus dey haz the greatest harness tape of all time! <*Arnold voice*

zukboi2004

So with what u said in mind, I will ask if this is more safe:

inj bank 1 & coils 15amp?
inj bank 2 & coils 15amp?
maf- I am not running
cooling fan ( single fan ) 15amp fuse-(I am running two on there own 40 amp relays)
PCM/Ign 15amp
Fuel pump- 20 amp fuse instead of 40 amp relay? i can get a smaller relay
O2's 10 amp
Throttle control- Cable drivin- no fuse needed?

cam

iTrader: (9)

You need a fuel pump relay, the fuse is for the hot side. Fans double it up fuse/relay or a bigger single fuse for both relays. otherwise that all looks okay but you should confirm load ratings for your pinouts and spread sheet from somewhere like LS2swap dot gone? Wtf dang.... that was a handy site

Check alldata for load ratings if in doubt. The sticky here might have the info too Im not sure i havent looked in there for some time now

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

@ Cam

You mean lt1swap.com?

If so that site is still up.

cam

iTrader: (9)

lmao More beeeeeer need tonight LOL thanks ya that site

charchri4

iTrader: (11)

Could someone tell me how to disable the vats exactly and what to do the with blue wire on pin 30 of the red connector?

Thanks!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Tune VATS out. Get rid of that Blue Wire.

zukboi2004

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...y-harness.html

I started this thread to bundle the 411 together n stop hijacking. Plus I can post exactly what I am dealing with in my own thread. Thanks for the info