onetype

iTrader: (6)

Down to wiring the car, and I have some questions.

1989 Volvo 245
5.3
t56
0411 pcm
Truck harness

We've already stripped the harness of the all the unnecessary wiring, like egr, 4l60 wiring etc.. It has already been de-pinned and removed.

Now, down to the C2 fuse block connector. I'm not running a truck fuse block, so I am beginning to unpin the remaining wires connected to this, and will be running a smaller $4 fuse block with very minimal relays connected to it. Very similar to this setup:




What are all the pink wires going downstream of the c2 fuse block? Are they all just 12v power wires? I am deleting this fuse block and want to make sure before I unpin them all



Also, I've been told the main relay needs to be a 60amp?

Thanks
Ryan

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

You need at the very least 6 fuses to properly separate all of the circuits to properly run the engine. There is a lot of good info on lt1swap, but that setup is NOT the RIGHT way to do it. Will it work? Yes it will work, but its not how it was engineered to be wired. Let alone if you have any shorts in the future it would be a nightmare to trace down because so many things are tied to the same circuit.

As far as your ignition power relay you will be fine with a GOOD bosch style relay rated for 40 amp on the normally open circuit.

Your pink wires are all ignition hot circuits. However, they go to many things. On lt1 swap he will tell you to rip out all of the nss wiring, when I re-wire a harness that the customer is using the factory transmission I leave the wiring for the starting circuit and back up lamps so that they are provided for them when they get the harness from me.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Pm me your email and I will send you a scanned copy of how I wire up my relays. You are making it harder that it needs to be.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

That's exactly what I was thinking, just needed clarification. I ordered 2 so I can run 8 fuses, and might run a few in line.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, right after I posted this we found the pin out for the c2 connector. Switching between like 5 pages on lt1tech labeling and thinning this thing out.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

What about this? Wiring diagram says starter solenoid feed, but it looks like a ground to me?

Sleeperls

prob goes to the small post on the starter. Is there a bigger one right by it?

It looks like the solenoid power wire to me.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Also, is Blue 33 - TCC brake switch needed (puprle trace)? I'm using a factory Volvo brake switch already wired into the Volvo chassis harness.

Thanks!

It could be power, it's like 14-16 gauge, and purple in color.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Large purple wire is used to power the starter solenoild. Small purple TCC wire is not needed unless you are runnning a 4L60E to disengage the torque converter clutch.

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

As stated above, the 12ga purple wire gets bolted to the small post on your starter solenoid.

The 18ga purple tcc wire goes to a normally closed position on the brake switch if the volvo switch has the provisions for this. If it does not you will have to wire in a relay. This wire should have 12v ignition until you hit the brakes, then it should lose the 12 volts. This is how the pcm knows to disengage the lockup.

zukboi2004

Pics would be great

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Car has a t56, so TCC will not be used. Thanks for the replies! I ended up finding some better diagrams and pin outs on lt1tech after searching for hours.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Almost done wiring this thing up, but I have a few questions. This is what I have so far:



And here are my questions:

These are the common grounds that went to C2 on the factory harness. Obviously I've made a standalone harness now, so what do I do with them? Can I just ground them to the car (And if I ground them to the car, should I have a tie in a ground from the battery to the same spot, or will just the chassis be sufficient?)



These 3 grounds, where do they go? 1 on the rear of each head? And the 3rd?


Thanks for all the help guys!

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

The last one goes to the block. The grounds that went to c2 are grounds for the relays the stock fuse block needed. You dont have to hook them to anything.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

So I can just put a ring terminal on them and ground them to the chassis? As my relays are going to be grounded elsewhere.

Last pic, all 3 go to the block? I imagine the 2 with the L eyelits go to the heads, just wasn't sure about the 3rd ground.

Thanks again.