LS1/T56 into a 68 Camaro
11-26-2013, 07:44 AM
#62
Tommy, I got the part numbers for you. The brand is AGS. The first one is PN BLF-32C and is 3/8-24 Inverted flare female to M11X1.5 Bubble male, the second is BLF-33C and is 3/8-24 Inverted flare female to M12X1.0 Bubble male. The rear port on the master is the M11X1.5 and I believe was plumbed to the front brakes on the 4th gen. There are adapters out there that use the 7/16 inverted flare, but I don't have the part numbers. Hopefully this info will help out others trying the same thing.
11-29-2013, 05:59 PM
#63
Hey Tommy, FYI, the fitting I listed for the front port will only work with 3/16" tubing and I think I should use 1/4". I am trying to get an M12X1.0 to 7/16 inverted flare. There only seems to be one company Plews-Edelmann that makes it.
Anyway I haven't made much progress the last few days, it is time to rake leaves here in SE PA. I did receive my low mount LS-1 brackets for the Vintage Air compressor and mounted it. Then I tried the 135 degree fittings they gave me and they are not going to work. Luckily Vintage Air makes a bunch of other fittings, so I ordered some that will work today.
Anyway I haven't made much progress the last few days, it is time to rake leaves here in SE PA. I did receive my low mount LS-1 brackets for the Vintage Air compressor and mounted it. Then I tried the 135 degree fittings they gave me and they are not going to work. Luckily Vintage Air makes a bunch of other fittings, so I ordered some that will work today.
12-04-2013, 12:10 PM
#64
I was able to spend a couple of hours on the car yesterday and ran into several issues.
Come to find out the driveshaft I kept from the TKO-600 swap I did a few years ago has the wrong slip yoke. It is a 31 spline while the T56 is 27 spline. In addition, Kiesler made the front U-joint a 1330 instead of the standard 1310 which is actually a good thing for torque capacity. The good news, I measured everything and it looks like Denny's Driveshaft shop has a slip yoke with the 27 spline/1330 U-joint that is the correct length where I will not have to modify the rest of the driveshaft. I ordered it and will check that as soon as it comes in and I swap slip yokes.
The Art Morrison sub has no provisions for the stock e-brake set-up which I want to keep, so it looks like I will be doing some modifications to mount the cable and the slave link. I am trying to get measurements for the location of the mounts on a stock sub so if anyone can help me with that, I would like dimensions and pictures. My old configuration had the cable under the exhaust and it would make hard contact when the E-brake was engaged. Is this normal???? Since I am fabbing this up on the AME sub, I have some room to move the links around to either get it below or above the exhaust (that is if there is room with the driveshaft). Anyone have ideas on this???
I mounted the C5 rotors and calipers on the spindles and guess what? My 17 inch wheels seem to fit, but with only a C-hair of clearance. I didn't have the right caliper bolts, so there is a little slop inthe caliper right now. I have the right bolts on order and will check clearances again when they are installed. Either way the backspace is not ideal, so I may have to go with new wheels anyway. I'll find out at the end when I put the sheetmetal back on. For the caliper hoses, I am leaning toward welding the hose brackets to the frame rather than drilling holes and bolting them on. I want to mount the hoses so that they are in an S-bend, but I want to see if that is the typical C5 mounting configuration.
Finally for TSNow I took some angle measurements (note that I used a cheap angle gauge, so the number could be off by a degree or two). Making adjustments so that the car is level, the trans has a 5 degree down angle and the rear has a 7 degree up angle for a net difference of 2 degrees. Unfortunately I would have liked to have seen the rear be approximately 3 degrees up so that under acceleration it more approximates 5 degrees up. I am not sure if this will be a problem so we will have to see. As a point of reference, I used to get some vibration at speeds over 100 MPH and i wonder now if this is the culprit.
Come to find out the driveshaft I kept from the TKO-600 swap I did a few years ago has the wrong slip yoke. It is a 31 spline while the T56 is 27 spline. In addition, Kiesler made the front U-joint a 1330 instead of the standard 1310 which is actually a good thing for torque capacity. The good news, I measured everything and it looks like Denny's Driveshaft shop has a slip yoke with the 27 spline/1330 U-joint that is the correct length where I will not have to modify the rest of the driveshaft. I ordered it and will check that as soon as it comes in and I swap slip yokes.
The Art Morrison sub has no provisions for the stock e-brake set-up which I want to keep, so it looks like I will be doing some modifications to mount the cable and the slave link. I am trying to get measurements for the location of the mounts on a stock sub so if anyone can help me with that, I would like dimensions and pictures. My old configuration had the cable under the exhaust and it would make hard contact when the E-brake was engaged. Is this normal???? Since I am fabbing this up on the AME sub, I have some room to move the links around to either get it below or above the exhaust (that is if there is room with the driveshaft). Anyone have ideas on this???
I mounted the C5 rotors and calipers on the spindles and guess what? My 17 inch wheels seem to fit, but with only a C-hair of clearance. I didn't have the right caliper bolts, so there is a little slop inthe caliper right now. I have the right bolts on order and will check clearances again when they are installed. Either way the backspace is not ideal, so I may have to go with new wheels anyway. I'll find out at the end when I put the sheetmetal back on. For the caliper hoses, I am leaning toward welding the hose brackets to the frame rather than drilling holes and bolting them on. I want to mount the hoses so that they are in an S-bend, but I want to see if that is the typical C5 mounting configuration.
Finally for TSNow I took some angle measurements (note that I used a cheap angle gauge, so the number could be off by a degree or two). Making adjustments so that the car is level, the trans has a 5 degree down angle and the rear has a 7 degree up angle for a net difference of 2 degrees. Unfortunately I would have liked to have seen the rear be approximately 3 degrees up so that under acceleration it more approximates 5 degrees up. I am not sure if this will be a problem so we will have to see. As a point of reference, I used to get some vibration at speeds over 100 MPH and i wonder now if this is the culprit.
12-04-2013, 03:57 PM
#65
Where would you like me to reference from on the parking brake cable components? I currently have mine undone but hopefully in the next few days to a week I should have everything back up and in working order.
The negative 5 sounds about normal on the tranny. The positive angle on the rear seems odd to me since I set my angle for more bite. I usually run a negative 5 but with the Cal-tracs they recommend a negative 2-4.
The negative 5 sounds about normal on the tranny. The positive angle on the rear seems odd to me since I set my angle for more bite. I usually run a negative 5 but with the Cal-tracs they recommend a negative 2-4.
12-05-2013, 07:35 AM
#66
TSnow, Bossman sent me some great pictures for the E-brake so I am good on that now although I do wonder if everyone else has the same issue where the cable hits the exhaust. When you say negative 5 do you mean a net difference of 10 degrees or 0 degrees. I always thought you wanted to keep the net difference at 0. I was wondering if I could use some typical slapper bar 2 degree shims to bring mine more in line.
12-05-2013, 04:42 PM
#67
When you say negative 5 do you mean a net difference of 10 degrees or 0 degrees.
12-08-2013, 11:19 AM
#70
I took this Friday off again and worked on the car. I got the E-brake set up and finished running most of the brake lines. I ran the E-brake under the subframe and mounted it to a simple bracket I made out of thick gauge sheetmetal. I am a little worried about this set-up. The bracket is the low point on the car now and I may have interference between the exhaust and cable. I am leaving it and will see how it works out.
12-08-2013, 11:25 AM
#72
Late last week, I finally got the steering U-joint adapter I needed and finished mocking up the steering shaft. I had to grind part of the head off the one U-joint where it was hitting the headers which I scratched up pretty good. I think this set-up was meant for Borgeson U-joints and not the Unisteer which seem to be bigger.
12-08-2013, 11:30 AM
#73
Here is the front brake line mounting. When I pull the engine out again I will finish clamping the brake lines down. I also tried to show how tight it is between the wheel and the caliper. I will probably end up with 18" wheels, but I will decide later.
12-16-2013, 07:47 AM
#76
Had some time yesterday and worked on the car. I installed the correct caliper hardware and verified that my wheels still clear. I am going to stick with them for now, but I am worried the backspacing wont work. Art Morrison say 5 1/4" BS is ideal and I have 4 1/2" BS. I guess I'll find out when I put the sheet metal back on. I finished flaring the brake lines that I bent the other day, so now I just have the short length going from the line lock to the tee fitting and I can't finish that one until the sheet metal is back on.
Some really good news; I swapped slip yokes on my driveshaft and the current length is perfect, so no shortening required. I guess the TKO600 is the same length as the T56.
The bad news, I bought a 4th gen console on Craig's List for mock up purposes and there is no way it will fit. It is too wide and won't fit between the seats.
Some really good news; I swapped slip yokes on my driveshaft and the current length is perfect, so no shortening required. I guess the TKO600 is the same length as the T56.
The bad news, I bought a 4th gen console on Craig's List for mock up purposes and there is no way it will fit. It is too wide and won't fit between the seats.
12-16-2013, 08:02 AM
#77
The shifter and console:
This is the last issue I am dealing with in my mock-up. I have pretty wide 3R Racing seats that are very supportive and comfortable and I don't want to give them up. Even with my TKO600 and the console in the stock location there was some minor interference between the seats and the console, but it was livable. I can't slide the console back even a little bit because it gets wider at the front. I also know a 4th gen F-body console won't fit because it is too wide to fit between the seats.
Option 1: Stay with the stock console in the original location. This requires that I buy a shifter relocation kit from McCleod that moves the shifter to the forward inspection cover. This also requires that I buy an offset shifter that moves the stick 1 inch to the left and 4 1/2 inches back. This is about $400 in parts, internal mods to the trans and possible floor mods because of the long lever on the shifter. It also means that the shifter will move up and down when shifting because of the 4 1/2 inch lever arm.
Option 2: Leave the T56 shifter in the stock 4th gen location and go with no console or figure out some way to make some console work. This option actually puts the shifter in a more comfortable postion than stock 1st Gen F-body so I can go with a shorter stick.
This is the last issue I am dealing with in my mock-up. I have pretty wide 3R Racing seats that are very supportive and comfortable and I don't want to give them up. Even with my TKO600 and the console in the stock location there was some minor interference between the seats and the console, but it was livable. I can't slide the console back even a little bit because it gets wider at the front. I also know a 4th gen F-body console won't fit because it is too wide to fit between the seats.
Option 1: Stay with the stock console in the original location. This requires that I buy a shifter relocation kit from McCleod that moves the shifter to the forward inspection cover. This also requires that I buy an offset shifter that moves the stick 1 inch to the left and 4 1/2 inches back. This is about $400 in parts, internal mods to the trans and possible floor mods because of the long lever on the shifter. It also means that the shifter will move up and down when shifting because of the 4 1/2 inch lever arm.
Option 2: Leave the T56 shifter in the stock 4th gen location and go with no console or figure out some way to make some console work. This option actually puts the shifter in a more comfortable postion than stock 1st Gen F-body so I can go with a shorter stick.
12-16-2013, 08:22 AM
#78
I would go with the more comfortable position for sure. You can always make a custom console to fit your application. I made mine and had it upholstered for $130.
Another option would be to buy a raw custom console shell and make it how you want it. Here's a link to some consoles.
http://www.classictruckconsoles.com/...ift-gauges.php
Another option would be to buy a raw custom console shell and make it how you want it. Here's a link to some consoles.
http://www.classictruckconsoles.com/...ift-gauges.php
