LS1/T56 into a 68 Camaro
02-08-2013, 03:46 PM
#1
LS1/T56 into a 68 Camaro Well I have been lurking on some of your threads for awhile and decided it was time to start my own.
The Car
1968 Camaro that I have owned since 1985 when I was in college. It was my daily driver from late 1985 until 1989 when I finally got a 2nd car (1971 Camaro). I have installed two separate engines in it (both small blocks), had the car painted twice and pretty much replaced every piece of sheetmetal. During the second engine install, I rebuilt the whole front suspension with polyurethane and added 68-72 Chevelle disc brakes. After that I added a TKO 600 5-speed, rear disc brakes and 17 inch wheels. After I bought my first new car, A 2005 GTO, that would do 12.80's with just bolt ons, I became hooked on LS power and that sweet 6 speed and started to plan for a swap. I also wanted to upgrade the suspension, brakes and steering and thought about an aftermarket subframe. I was going to do the subframe first and then the LS with the Tremec TKO but as you will find out, I decided to do it all at once. Here are pictures of the car and engine right before I started the swap. The engine was a 355 that made 306 RWHP and the car would pull 13.30's at the track.
The Car
1968 Camaro that I have owned since 1985 when I was in college. It was my daily driver from late 1985 until 1989 when I finally got a 2nd car (1971 Camaro). I have installed two separate engines in it (both small blocks), had the car painted twice and pretty much replaced every piece of sheetmetal. During the second engine install, I rebuilt the whole front suspension with polyurethane and added 68-72 Chevelle disc brakes. After that I added a TKO 600 5-speed, rear disc brakes and 17 inch wheels. After I bought my first new car, A 2005 GTO, that would do 12.80's with just bolt ons, I became hooked on LS power and that sweet 6 speed and started to plan for a swap. I also wanted to upgrade the suspension, brakes and steering and thought about an aftermarket subframe. I was going to do the subframe first and then the LS with the Tremec TKO but as you will find out, I decided to do it all at once. Here are pictures of the car and engine right before I started the swap. The engine was a 355 that made 306 RWHP and the car would pull 13.30's at the track.
Last edited by Aston Tibs; 02-08-2013 at 03:52 PM.
02-08-2013, 03:47 PM
#2
The engine,
During the summer I started looking for a suitable engine with the intention of using my TKO600 trans. Searching through E-bay I found a relatively complete LS1 out of a 2000 Camaro Z28 which I bought for $1300. After paying a couple hundred for shipping it was at my house. It was missing an ECM, MAF and a few sensors, but I thought it was a good deal. Then about one month later, a friend of mine wrecked his 1999 Firebird Trans Am WS6 Convertible, ironically, while he was racing me. He was OK, but the car was totalled. About 24 hours after the wreck, I asked him if I could buy the car for salvage value and he was suprisingly supportive as he would rather see the heart of his car live on then be sent to some unknown person. Well $2000 later I had a wrecked car sitting in my driveway with a 60,000 mile LS1/T56 combo. After selling off the rest of the parts, I was actually $1400 ahead which immediately went to new cylinder heads for the LS1. I was also able to sell the first LS1 I bought for $1400. Here are some pictures of the car I got the engine from and pictures of the engine pulled out.
During the summer I started looking for a suitable engine with the intention of using my TKO600 trans. Searching through E-bay I found a relatively complete LS1 out of a 2000 Camaro Z28 which I bought for $1300. After paying a couple hundred for shipping it was at my house. It was missing an ECM, MAF and a few sensors, but I thought it was a good deal. Then about one month later, a friend of mine wrecked his 1999 Firebird Trans Am WS6 Convertible, ironically, while he was racing me. He was OK, but the car was totalled. About 24 hours after the wreck, I asked him if I could buy the car for salvage value and he was suprisingly supportive as he would rather see the heart of his car live on then be sent to some unknown person. Well $2000 later I had a wrecked car sitting in my driveway with a 60,000 mile LS1/T56 combo. After selling off the rest of the parts, I was actually $1400 ahead which immediately went to new cylinder heads for the LS1. I was also able to sell the first LS1 I bought for $1400. Here are some pictures of the car I got the engine from and pictures of the engine pulled out.
Last edited by Aston Tibs; 02-09-2013 at 04:35 PM.
02-08-2013, 03:49 PM
#3
1968 Camaro Disassembly
SInce I am also putting in a new subframe, I removed the whole front clip from the car. Then I removed the subframe from the car with the engine and transmission still attached. To date I have sold the subframe with suspension and steering for $400, I sold the Tremec TKO 600 and crossmember for $1800 and the engine minus bellhousing and flywheel/clutch for $2200. THe bellhousing sold for $125 and I am still trying to sell the clutch and flywheel (6000 miles on them). I also removed the gas tank and sold it for $40. Now that i have some room in the garage, I can start buying parts but not until I take care of some rust that I couldn't get to before. Attached pictures show the disassembly process.
SInce I am also putting in a new subframe, I removed the whole front clip from the car. Then I removed the subframe from the car with the engine and transmission still attached. To date I have sold the subframe with suspension and steering for $400, I sold the Tremec TKO 600 and crossmember for $1800 and the engine minus bellhousing and flywheel/clutch for $2200. THe bellhousing sold for $125 and I am still trying to sell the clutch and flywheel (6000 miles on them). I also removed the gas tank and sold it for $40. Now that i have some room in the garage, I can start buying parts but not until I take care of some rust that I couldn't get to before. Attached pictures show the disassembly process.
Last edited by Aston Tibs; 02-09-2013 at 04:48 PM.
02-08-2013, 03:49 PM
#4
Rust repair.
I had thought I had every bit of rust fixed after replacing every body panel over the years, but with the subframe off there were some areas that I could get to now more easily that needed repair. Specifically the flange where the rocker meets with the floor had some bad areas. When the floors were replaced they were cut on the horizontal surface rather than at the rocker panel joint. There was also a spot I found on the rear frame rail taht I am taking care of. This is where the progress is currently stuck as I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel which is taking priority. I hope to make some real progress in the next few weeks
I had thought I had every bit of rust fixed after replacing every body panel over the years, but with the subframe off there were some areas that I could get to now more easily that needed repair. Specifically the flange where the rocker meets with the floor had some bad areas. When the floors were replaced they were cut on the horizontal surface rather than at the rocker panel joint. There was also a spot I found on the rear frame rail taht I am taking care of. This is where the progress is currently stuck as I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel which is taking priority. I hope to make some real progress in the next few weeks
Last edited by Aston Tibs; 02-09-2013 at 04:56 PM.
02-09-2013, 05:00 PM
#5
I have bought few parts for the LS-1. I bought a set of World Products Warhawk cylinder heads on E-bay for $1200. These are cathedral port with 235cc intake ports and valvesprings good for 0.700" lift. I will probably stay closer to 0.600" lift though. I also found an LS-6 intake on Craig's List for $275 and a set of 36 lb/he injectors on E-bay for $54. I haven't spec'd out my cam yet, but I will soon. I also haven't decided on what subframe I want.
07-18-2013, 05:17 PM
#7
Well after remodeling the kitchen, getting a new (for me) motorhome and other house and vehicle maintenance, I am finally making progress on the Camaro. As of today I have finished all the rust repair. I had to remove the rear and springs to get to the one spot which created a cascade affect. I'll talk about that in the next post. Now for the rust repair photos. I have everything covered with seam sealer now, but I will undercoat everything after I finish cleaning up the bottom of the car.
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07-18-2013, 05:22 PM
#8
Since the rear springs were out of the car to do rust repair, (first time since springs were installed in 1988) I decided to buy new polyurethane bushings. After mangling the front spring eye bolts and brackets getting them off, I found out that the Rancho springs I bought in 1988 had non standard bushings which nobody makes. Well after $304, I have new springs, front mounts, front mount bolts and front spring eye bolts on order. That was a relatively expensive detour. I will have my slapper bars blasted and painted while they are off along with the U-bolts.
08-07-2013, 12:20 PM
#11
I finished cleaning up the underside a few weeks ago and I got the rear suspension all painted and installed over the last weekend. I need to make some minor adjustments to the traction bars, but it should be done this coming weekend. I've ordered the Tanks, Inc fuel tank/pump/sender assembly, the Speedway Motors LS-1 filter/regulator and 37 degree flaring tool and will be handling that next. Almost time to order the new subframe.
09-17-2013, 11:45 AM
#16
I set up my fuel tank and lines yesterday and I am confused as to what to do with the vent connection. Tanks, Inc provided a "roll over valve" which I thought was a vent check valve. If you mount it upright, which is what they recommend, gravity will hold it open keeping the tank vented at all times. This would be in addition to the vent on the fuel tank cap. If I mount it upside down, gravity will keep it closed and any negative pressure in the tank would allow air to come into the tank supplementing the air let in by the gas cap. I have heard of people dealing with fuel smell and I am wary of mounting it upright because of this. Any thoughts?
09-17-2013, 03:12 PM
#17
I set up my fuel tank and lines yesterday and I am confused as to what to do with the vent connection. Tanks, Inc provided a "roll over valve" which I thought was a vent check valve. If you mount it upright, which is what they recommend, gravity will hold it open keeping the tank vented at all times. This would be in addition to the vent on the fuel tank cap. If I mount it upside down, gravity will keep it closed and any negative pressure in the tank would allow air to come into the tank supplementing the air let in by the gas cap. I have heard of people dealing with fuel smell and I am wary of mounting it upright because of this. Any thoughts?
09-18-2013, 07:10 AM
#19
One thing at a time Steve. That seed is planted deep in my mind, but I want to finish this first, LOL.
Tsnow, I have gone back over your thread a few times and saw what you did. I am thinking of going your way, but I thought I would see if there was a way I could use this fancy "roll over" check valve.
ANyway, I was in a hurry yesterday and didn't post any pics, so here are a few of my tank and lines set up
Tsnow, I have gone back over your thread a few times and saw what you did. I am thinking of going your way, but I thought I would see if there was a way I could use this fancy "roll over" check valve.
ANyway, I was in a hurry yesterday and didn't post any pics, so here are a few of my tank and lines set up
09-18-2013, 07:27 AM
#20
Another dilemma I would like some feedback on. I have decided to go with the Art Morrison subframe and I am trying to choose headers. Art Morrison has a nice set that are equal length coated 1 3/4" tube with ball and socket connectors, O2 bungs and matching street hook ups. These are designed to fit the AME subframe and LS1. The negatives are that they are mild steel under the coating and about $1000.
Stainless Works CA679WD headers are 1 3/4" stainless steel slip fit headers with O2 bungs that are "Supposed to be" equal length and are reported to fit the AME subframe. They are only $790. The negatives are the slip fit connection, no street hookup's and they sure don't look equal length.
I am leaning towards the AME headers at the moment and hopping that the coating will hold up.
What would you do?
Stainless Works CA679WD headers are 1 3/4" stainless steel slip fit headers with O2 bungs that are "Supposed to be" equal length and are reported to fit the AME subframe. They are only $790. The negatives are the slip fit connection, no street hookup's and they sure don't look equal length.
I am leaning towards the AME headers at the moment and hopping that the coating will hold up.
What would you do?