brian g

iTrader: (1)

I know you've already committed to the GTO oil pan but FYI Canton makes a nice front sump 4 baffle pan. the front sump is about 7" from front and about 14" wide.

I started with a GTO oil pan and it needed mods to get the engine crank pully behind an after market sway bar, so I jumped over to the Canton pan and just re-did my X-member.
In an 83 (never ending ) Supra swap.

I recently took a short drive in a 1997 M3 with a stock lq4 with Ls6 tune, t56 and long tube headers with 3.15 diff gears.
Lets just say the smile was stuck to my face for a few hours.
The guy who did the swap was working with JTR and stated he gets better mpg with 6.0, he started with a 5.3 and said he was very surprised with the MPG- IIRC it was around 20 city and 30 hwy for the 5.3.
Enjoy.

vazfx16

Thank you very much for the info. I looked into the Canton sump. When I did the price analysis and complexity it was not worth it for me. Example: The price for the sum is $400 + the remote filter set up of @ $150. Then the complexity of extra plumbing on a daily driver didn't interest me. The GTO pan is dead nuts simple like a stock engine would be. Notching the cross member is something I could do really easily and very cheaply.

Now for the motor mounts, which will be more challenging because of the steering box. But there are solutions I can see in my head. Just need to get in there.

Teaguer

Sub-scriiibed!

Great work so far!
Have you noticed any trans tunnel interference issues with the 4l60e?
Also are you planning on staying with 2-piece driveshaft or going to 1-piece design?

kesslerbmw

Subscribed, been waiting to follow a build on an e34 that started life with the M60.

vazfx16

I am leaning toward doing a two piece shaft at this point. The reasons is that, after I studied how to align the engine and the center support bracket. I am not sure I can do that effectively. It will have to be dead on. It will have no guibo, so it there will be no give at all. Unless someone has advice on how to get that right. If I do a one-peice, I can use the u-joints to make up minor mis-alignments, and will be easier to align. Can someone tell me why I am wrong?

Tunnel clearance is tight, but I don't think there is any major interference. I can't exactly tell since the motor mounts and powertrain alignment is not done yet. I am sure the BAM (Big *** Mallet) will come out to play.

SWAGON

It seems many of the guys with LS BMW's start with a one piece and then opt for the 2 piece. I am hoping to just have the front section of the stock M5 shaft modded.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

What type/length/spline count slip yoke is generally used on the back end of a stock F-Body T56? Where can I grab one on the cheap?

vazfx16

Why do they go to 2-piece...Is it the vibrations from the one piece?

I worry about the one piece fitting through the hole in the rear subframe. The Bimmer 2-piece is tapered at the end to fit. it gets very skinny. Things like that make me contemplate adapting the stock unit.

vazfx16

Started the motor mounts. I don't know why, but slotting plate i not much fun to me. Maybe its because I don't really have the right tool for it. If I had a milling machine it would probably not mind so much, butt to do this all by had is too much meticulous work for my personality.


Starting the driver's side plate.



Alignment was spot on.


Passenger side mounting plate slotted and ready for the mount to get built to it.

Next step is to put the motor back in the car and then start fabbing up the mounts. I may be modifing the cross member to have a platform to attach the mounts to, but I am not sure yet. The stock BMW fluid filled mounts are weak. I changed my last year, when I pull the engine theydumwere ripped.

vazfx16

I got these really cheap on Amazon(via Jegs) They are very thin walled (not good), but I am going to use them for exhaust experimentation. I am looking to create a unique system that has high scavenging and an interesting exhaust note. I also have some weld els that I am going to build something with.
I looked in side the stock LS1 (Firebird) manifolds, and I was very disappointed in what looks to be poor flow opportunities. Welds that make the ports a lot smaller than they should be, as well as the potential for exhaust gases to back up into other ports, Especially on the driver's side.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

This is awesome. I lived in Germany for a few years and had many bmw's. Always loved these touring wagons.

vazfx16

After getting the motor settled in, it is time to start the mounts.

vazfx16

Sizing templates for the motormounts4

jakeb

iTrader: (9)

very nice! I had an e34 touring (s52 5 speed turbo) a few years ago. When I see them for sale on CL cheap I always want to buy and LSx one.

sub'd

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Coming along!

Did you have to notch your GTO pan?

What are you using to mock up the mounts? Is that cardboard taped into place?

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

I have a brand new GTO pan complete off the crate motor I put in my father's Panoz. PM me if you still need one.

EDIT - I see you already have one.

vazfx16

The notch in the crossmember was enough. I didn't need to notch the oil pan.


I am using poster board to mock mounts. I wrapped them around the tubing and creased to make the the shape of the rectangular tubing. This allows me to get things set up in 3D.

My daily drive decided to cough up its coolant via some unknown leaking source -- now I have to deal with that, which takes my energy way from the project Grrrrr!

vazfx16

Turbo s52 must have been wicked.
When you turbo'd your s52, how did you drop the compression

jakeb

iTrader: (9)

I didn't...wasn't running a ton of boost. 10psi is fine on stock head gasket and compression. As long as you have a good tune. It made around 345hp when I dynoed it.

A link to it on my site.
http://www.classicdaily.net/category/past/e34wagon/

vazfx16

Impressive
Great site!