d33rugz415

There is just too many to choose from??? Can someone tell me which works for them? Ls1/t56 into a 67 Chevelle..

cbrodine

I think "best" is a relative term, and you will get half a dozen answers. Take your pick, Dirty Dingo...BRP & etc. Something else to consider with adapter plates is what oil pan you are going to use, what tranny/X member, AC, whose headers/manifolds & etc. In my 69 A body I went with BRP mounts/X members and their Hedman hedders...good luck. You can also search...there is TONS of info on these GM A body swaps with what people are useing.

Haddixj

iTrader: (1)

I bought universal 1" setback based on a few people I found on here doing similar swaps. I havent used them yet though

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Agree with cbrodine...

It all "Depends" for a what is "Best"...

what is a consideration before you select a plate is based on Oil pan and Headers, Front Accessories can come into play due to the Steering box and Pump pully.

IMO, the best recommendation is to stick with one vendor/manufactor.. that being a package or a vendor that has parts that are designed to work together. No mixing and match if you want to avoid unknown problems (not that they can't be fixed).

BRP, S&P, Holley/Hooker all makes compones that work together. suggest you go that route.

As far as looking into placement (ie 1" setback). if you are trying to keep the transmission in it original location (shifter consideration and drive shaft length consideration). then the 1" setback would be the way to go.. but you also have to be careful.. as it puts the engine very close to the firewall.. if that is a concern.. you should consider standard plates and move the trans..

But yeah. .it is confusing... good luck..

BC

onefast84

Just get the ones that adapt your old style mounts to the ls block.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

I have the S&P plates on my 67 tempest. If you use the stock oil pan you have to notch the crossmember. I think if you use the CTS-V pan you will clear no problem. Fun swap, check my build in my sig. Everything should apply to your car too.

Edit: You may also be able to get away with the Dirty Dingo mounts, they are adjustable. I've used a few of their products to make sure I can clear my steering box and work with my truck accessories (idler relocation, smaller power steering pulley and water pump spacers) and they were all perfect.

Only issue with adjustable Dirty Dingo Mounts is back of motor to firewall clearance. I set my motor back an extra 1/2" by welding the frame mounts in place (as opposed to bolts). I did this so my tranny would line up in the original position (TH350) and could use my stock drive shaft. This left me about 1.5" from the back of the motor to the firewall. Enough space to wrench on **** if I need to. Plugging in the harness to back of motor and bolting tranny to motor.

d33rugz415

I just ordered the L's swap hooker ceramic coated headers and dirty dingo adapter plates. Ibsure hope the headers fit??