rlehto

I've been researching swaping a ls +T56 into my 1970 chevelle. From my research most have had to cut a large portion of the tunnel to clear the T56 but then I found this write on S&P's website: http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/LS...toryscreen.pdf

Page 4 shows the hole they cut which looks tiny compared to just about everyone else's.

I assume their swap plates don't move the engine back much to accomplish this but they look pretty similar to a lot of the other plates I've seen but they do have to cut an f-body pan to work with their mounts which I know for others hasn't been necessary.

Has anyone been able to recreate wh S&P did with other mounts?

I like the less cutting idea but if it does have the engine foward I'm sure I'll have to get a custom oil pan and headers to avoid the clearance issues with the front steering linkage and the cross member.

oldgoat69

Many have done the same swap, just run a search to see all of the ways this has been done.

ls13ater

iTrader: (3)

Do you have any welding ability if so I would build my own mounts, that way you can get the engine to sit low as possible, that way you want have to cut much of the tunnel

alaninin

iTrader: (1)

I am just finishing up my ls t56 swap and the only way this could be do is by getting the engine as low as possible. This means modifying the oil pan to get it to clear. If you go with long tube headers they might be real low. I went with cutting the tunnel like most others that have dune the swap.

rlehto

Sorry I did do a search on here and several other places but couldn't find anyone who has recreated such a small opening for an A-body. There is even a magazine article I saw that says you can do the swap without modifying the tunnel but I have yet to see that.

Thanks for the replies it seems height is more of a factor than how far back the engine is. I have some dingo slider plates with energy suspension mounts. I'll do some experimenting once I get the trans out of storage to see what happens with this combo sliding it forward and rearward. They have a dimension it article so if I can get to line up there I'll see how the clearance is sine the dingos + energy suspension mounts do raise the engine up.

I'm not opposed to welding things I've never done it but those are the things that these projects help you learn.

rlehto

Thanks that's what i figured too many smart guys have already done this and most cut a large section of tunnel

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

They did it by angling the transmission down at an extreme angle. I bet $1000 that this car has intense vibration problems.

Andrew

rlehto

They explain how the angle should be between 1-5 degrees but who knows what they ended up with its hard to see in the pic.

I did some moving around with my engine with the dirty dingo sliders which bump up the engine 1/4" here's what I found from back of engine to firewall then I calculated from there to the center of the shifter and backed into the dimension hod rod lane used from the floor pan seam:

Slider Location/ Back of Engine to Firewall/ Seam to Shifter Center
2.5" Set Back......................2....................... ........16.9
1.75" Set Back...................2.75....................... ....16.15
0" Set Back........................3.75.................. .........15.15
HodRod Lane...............4.9(Calculated)................ ....14

At the full set back (2.5") I was able to install the engine with stock f-body pan and headers with driver's O2 Sensor.

At 1.75" set back you are at the limit for the f-body pan (I had a finger width of clearance) and I had to remove the O2 sensor from the driver's side.

At no set back I had to remove the f-body pan but the headers still look like they work.

I'll see if I can get the trans in and see how much cutting I will need at the various positions. Most likely hod rod lane was able to cut so little by moving the far engine forward (I notice they did not have to notch for the A/C) while keeping it low and angled downward towards the upper limit (if not past) of 5 degrees down.