Tramminc

Can I use a torch on the bolt without hurting gaskets, I put a wrench through the flywheel and a breaker bar on the bolt and it will not move.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Don't use torch. Use a 4 foot long gas pipe on a breaker bar. Then bounce on it to break it loose. It will come loose.

diesel240

iTrader: (4)

Agreed, It wasn't until I got a 5 ft cheater pipe that mine finally loosened.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I used a 4 foot one, it well loosen. Also, make sure you use a puller that is designed to work on the GM pully.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

And use a quality 24mm socket or impact socket.not fun when you smash your hand cause a socket fails.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Having the crack locked so it will not turn or flex at all helps a bunch. I sell a tool for this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...e-holders.html

Then a good impact or breaker bar.

Tim

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I concur.

I've always used an impact - but I have a good one. I think GM was afraid these bolts might fall off one day because they are torqued to 240 ft/lbs AND have locktite on them.

Jimbo1367

I never had a problem with mine. I put a bolt through the flex plate and engine stand mounting arm with a 24" breaker bar and cheater bar as others mentioned. Sometimes when I remove lug nuts that the ""shops" over tighten with their impact, I use a 1/2" drive ratchet and my service jack. Put the ratchet wrench parallel with the ground and simply jack it up.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

And then you still have to use a puller!


Get a bigger cheater pipe. I use the handle for my jack. Just make sure your hands are clear so you don't smash them if something breaks.

The "jack up the ratchet" trick works well for some things. I've use it for tie rod jam nuts and other assorted suspension jobs, but never for a crank bolt.

If you have room, you can try using the starter. Wedge the breaker bar against the frame or shop floor, pull the ECM fuses to keep it from firing, and bump the key a couple times. Its worked well for me on other engines. Be careful not to put the bar through the radiator/hood/roof/fender/etc.

the1theycallthe1

I used a flash of heat - but hardly any amount that was worth it. But maybe it helped.

Then as everyone else said - a big bit of pipe over a 1" drive breaker bar.

Tramminc

I have a small pipe through the flywheel, resting on the torque converter and the other side on the motor. I'd hate to break ether one with all that pressure.
I'll try again soon.....

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

Got any big friends?

97FormulaWS-6

iTrader: (1)

Impact is your friend...

leftlanetruckin

Impact, and not a Walmart one.
Worked on every motor I have rebuilt.

Martin

Tramminc

got it off now working on removing the pulley

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

Good impact as stated. If you don't have a good puller go to advanced auto and rent one, used one a few weeks ago and it did really well.

1965Lemans

I used a puller from O'Reilly. The Chrysler one worked great. Rent for free or buy for $50. I needed to add a spaced between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the crank bolt hole, turned right off.

Good luck.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

And to think, GM used to not even bolt them on. I had the pressed on balancer on my old 327 just walk right off one day. Had the crank drilled and tapped when I had it rebuilt. They must have been remembering the 60's and got a little carried away.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

If you rent a puller, get one with a torrington bearing in the kit. It will make re-installing the pulley much easier and you won't have to worry about pulling the threads out of your crankshaft. Slip it over the head of the new crank bolt and the pulley will slide right on.