Brunton M-Spec 1,600 pounds and LS POWER!!
04-15-2013, 02:51 AM
#21
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It is hard to put an exact number on duplicating it as I got screaming deals on the kit, L92, T-56 and rear end. But the most complete kit from Brunton is $17k. Figure $3-4k for an LS? and T56. Wiring harness, wheels/tires, seats, gauges, fasteners, paint, etc etc...
I'm figuring I should have less than $30k into it with doing a lot of work myself. That might sound like a lot, until you look at the price of similarly capable cars. When I saw one run at a track event (road course) it was the fastest car there by a lot. This is in a field of heavily modded f-bodies, C6 Z06s, Cobras, hot AWD imports, etc.
I figure all I have to fear on the road course when this thing is done, is similar kits, and crazy $$ AWD cars.
I did a lot of research and concluded this is the fastest car I can afford to own. I could have spent less on some used parts to save money, but reliability is a priority to me.
You could even build say a Brunton Classic Stalker for far less and throw more power at it. Those use a solid rear axle and would be the ticket for the drag stip IMHO.
Hopefully my track numbers back up my claims. But with 1,600 pounds and over 400 RWHP, I don't see how I can go wrong. Their demo car w a stock 5.3 was the fastest car I've ever been in!
I figure I had over $20k in my last modded, road race 4th gen (that was a few years ago, and my 02 was clean and low mile). And I couldn't get into a C6 Z06 for the money. Neither car would touch this thing at the drag strip or road course.
And again, you could build a similar car w a used 5.3 and home made wiring harness for far less. So I do believe this is a sort of budget super car.
Its late.... I'm gonna stop rambling now! LOL
I intend to have mine on the street. People tell me that is crazy and ask if it is safe. I say, "Safer than a motorcycle!"
I'm not sure if it is within the rules or not to post a link to Brunton. But, google will get you there!
05-08-2013, 12:51 AM
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I've been getting a bit done. I'll try to catch the thread up some.
On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use a "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later).
The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring!
Sorry, the cell phone pics really do not do it justice.
I also got the steering shaft installed which gave me the opportunity to sit in the car, turn the wheel and make engine noises! It is starting to become a car.
I took the engine off the stand and installed the LS7 flywheel with OEM bolts that came w the kit.
Put on Brunton's engine stands:
I also bolted up the LS1 F-body bell housing and CTS-V trans. I forgot to get action shots of it in the air, but I was able to swing the whole unit into place with the chassis still up on the stands!
Next I installed the new CTS rear center section (3.23 gears and G30 limited slip):
And measured for the drive shaft:
I'm working through details, but I am told I should remove the flange from the trans, and go to a slip yoke. More on that to come.
BTW, I am currently searching for a stock first gen CTS-V shifter assembly and trans mount to try. I'm coming up empty and would appreciate any help in tracking them down for a reasonable price!
On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use a "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later).
The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring!
Sorry, the cell phone pics really do not do it justice.
I also got the steering shaft installed which gave me the opportunity to sit in the car, turn the wheel and make engine noises! It is starting to become a car.
I took the engine off the stand and installed the LS7 flywheel with OEM bolts that came w the kit.
Put on Brunton's engine stands:
I also bolted up the LS1 F-body bell housing and CTS-V trans. I forgot to get action shots of it in the air, but I was able to swing the whole unit into place with the chassis still up on the stands!
Next I installed the new CTS rear center section (3.23 gears and G30 limited slip):
And measured for the drive shaft:
I'm working through details, but I am told I should remove the flange from the trans, and go to a slip yoke. More on that to come.
BTW, I am currently searching for a stock first gen CTS-V shifter assembly and trans mount to try. I'm coming up empty and would appreciate any help in tracking them down for a reasonable price!
05-08-2013, 01:23 AM
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I'm working to get all the major components on hand. I am pre-assembling pretty much everything. With the engine in I could get a feel for how much wiring harness I would need.
I called up Speartech and spoke w John. After a lot of research I feel comfortable he will provide a harness what will be cleanly built to fit my simplistic (subtle) style, and have the know how to help me through any potential bump in the process. I am especially fond of his testing every harness on a real engine set up prior to ship out!
Now the hard part, waiting for him to them to get through there back log of orders so they can build mine! I probably couldn't have picked a worse time of year to order, but I really wanted the engine/trans in before pulling the trigger.
Gratuitous engine pics (that I don't think are in the thread yet):
I called up Speartech and spoke w John. After a lot of research I feel comfortable he will provide a harness what will be cleanly built to fit my simplistic (subtle) style, and have the know how to help me through any potential bump in the process. I am especially fond of his testing every harness on a real engine set up prior to ship out!
Now the hard part, waiting for him to them to get through there back log of orders so they can build mine! I probably couldn't have picked a worse time of year to order, but I really wanted the engine/trans in before pulling the trigger.
Gratuitous engine pics (that I don't think are in the thread yet):
05-08-2013, 02:39 PM
#26
I've been getting a bit done. I'll try to catch the thread up some.
On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use a "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later).
The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring!
On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use a "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later).
The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring!
05-08-2013, 08:48 PM
#28
For the CTS-v shifter. www.car-part.com is your friend for everything.
btw I've been pricing everything out ever since I was introduced to this thread and they sell a pretty much completed car for another 2500 bucks. Which sounds like a lot of money but it's only about 25 hours of labor at a normal shop.
I can't wait till you get this thing running.
How does the footwell feel? it looks so tight around the legs, do you notice the feeling of being cramped sitting in this car? I drove a lotus elise around for a week, put hundreds of miles and it felt great, plenty plush quiet and plenty of room for me so I'm hoping a 7 wouldn't feel too small
btw I've been pricing everything out ever since I was introduced to this thread and they sell a pretty much completed car for another 2500 bucks. Which sounds like a lot of money but it's only about 25 hours of labor at a normal shop.
I can't wait till you get this thing running.
How does the footwell feel? it looks so tight around the legs, do you notice the feeling of being cramped sitting in this car? I drove a lotus elise around for a week, put hundreds of miles and it felt great, plenty plush quiet and plenty of room for me so I'm hoping a 7 wouldn't feel too small
05-08-2013, 10:01 PM
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For the CTS-v shifter. www.car-part.com is your friend for everything.
btw I've been pricing everything out ever since I was introduced to this thread and they sell a pretty much completed car for another 2500 bucks. Which sounds like a lot of money but it's only about 25 hours of labor at a normal shop.
I can't wait till you get this thing running.
How does the footwell feel? it looks so tight around the legs, do you notice the feeling of being cramped sitting in this car? I drove a lotus elise around for a week, put hundreds of miles and it felt great, plenty plush quiet and plenty of room for me so I'm hoping a 7 wouldn't feel too small
btw I've been pricing everything out ever since I was introduced to this thread and they sell a pretty much completed car for another 2500 bucks. Which sounds like a lot of money but it's only about 25 hours of labor at a normal shop.
I can't wait till you get this thing running.
How does the footwell feel? it looks so tight around the legs, do you notice the feeling of being cramped sitting in this car? I drove a lotus elise around for a week, put hundreds of miles and it felt great, plenty plush quiet and plenty of room for me so I'm hoping a 7 wouldn't feel too small
I would not discourage anyone from buying a completed car from Brunton. They have built many and know what they are doing. Unless you want to build your own car it probably makes sense. However, I would have to seriously disagree with your 25 hour number. No shop, not even Brunton could fab. fit and assemble one in an hour over three work days.
As far as the foot wells, it is tight. I will have to choose some very tight or possibly race shoes. I wear a size 11.5. That said one of the owners is a large guy and he makes it happen. I know better than to think a seven type car will be plush or quiet but I will give more feedback on that when I complete it.
Thank you!
05-21-2013, 12:23 AM
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After banging my head against the wall trying to locate the stock CTS-V shifter parts, I started actively shopping for a GTO or F-body style T-56. While speaking with a trans shop who specializes in Tremecs, I was discussing converting my CTS-V trans to a GTO tailhousing, and main shaft. Bad news is the GTO main shaft is nationally back-ordered... As a stroke of luck though, the guy had a stock CTS-V shifter set up!! I may still convert to the GTO tail housing down the road if I don't love the remote shifter, but at least this will get me going!
I also located a company making a stronger CTS-V trans mount. Apparently the stocker is weak, and failure prone. They also make some shifter bushings I hope will firm up the Caddy shifter.
Beyond finding parts I also got some garage time in. A friend who has been a huge help and motivator committed some hours over the weekend. We got the floor mounted Wilwood brake and clutch pedal mounted. We initially tried to mount them a little further toward the back of the car thinking it would provide more foot room, as the footwell narrows. But when I began to modify the firewall and hang the brake booster and master it was clear I had to move the pedals forward. It was basically a lot of time put in for minimal visible result, but, I'm glad to have progress toward a driving car!
The clutch pedal has a master mounted to it. Brunton makes a bracket for the Miata power booster mounting it backward and above the fire wall as the engine takes up the room where a brake MC and booster would typically go. They also provide a lever system that converts your forward brake pedal motion to backward. Space is at a premium in such a small chassis! Part of me would really like to try manual brakes, but the advise of experienced Stalker owners is to keep power brakes.
I also installed a front rotor and caliper. I took out my Percy's Wheelrite tool to make some measurements at full travel. Another area of my research lately is into track wheel/tire set up. A lot of Lotus 7 replica's run 13" race wheels. With the Wilwoods, that is a tight fit, requiring pricey custom wheels. After a discussion w a race tire distributer I was shied away from 14", 16", and 17". He explained (used) race tires are much easier to come by in 13, 15, and 18" sizes. I don't mean to come across as too cheap, but my budget is running thin, and I want to be able to afford to finish and race this beast, this year! Anyway, I am looking at probably going with a 15x10 custom steel wheel from a manufacturer who just so happens to be right here in WI! Think oval track wheels. Obviously a 15x10 steel wheel is not the lightest option, but w sticky tires, I don't think it will hold me back as much as my weigh OCD would have me think... Plus, I could always pony up for some lightweight custom alloy wheels in a year or two if I still want to.
And, yes, I know I should remove the plastic from the rotor and paper tag from the caliper prior to high speed use. LOL
I also located a company making a stronger CTS-V trans mount. Apparently the stocker is weak, and failure prone. They also make some shifter bushings I hope will firm up the Caddy shifter.
Beyond finding parts I also got some garage time in. A friend who has been a huge help and motivator committed some hours over the weekend. We got the floor mounted Wilwood brake and clutch pedal mounted. We initially tried to mount them a little further toward the back of the car thinking it would provide more foot room, as the footwell narrows. But when I began to modify the firewall and hang the brake booster and master it was clear I had to move the pedals forward. It was basically a lot of time put in for minimal visible result, but, I'm glad to have progress toward a driving car!
The clutch pedal has a master mounted to it. Brunton makes a bracket for the Miata power booster mounting it backward and above the fire wall as the engine takes up the room where a brake MC and booster would typically go. They also provide a lever system that converts your forward brake pedal motion to backward. Space is at a premium in such a small chassis! Part of me would really like to try manual brakes, but the advise of experienced Stalker owners is to keep power brakes.
I also installed a front rotor and caliper. I took out my Percy's Wheelrite tool to make some measurements at full travel. Another area of my research lately is into track wheel/tire set up. A lot of Lotus 7 replica's run 13" race wheels. With the Wilwoods, that is a tight fit, requiring pricey custom wheels. After a discussion w a race tire distributer I was shied away from 14", 16", and 17". He explained (used) race tires are much easier to come by in 13, 15, and 18" sizes. I don't mean to come across as too cheap, but my budget is running thin, and I want to be able to afford to finish and race this beast, this year! Anyway, I am looking at probably going with a 15x10 custom steel wheel from a manufacturer who just so happens to be right here in WI! Think oval track wheels. Obviously a 15x10 steel wheel is not the lightest option, but w sticky tires, I don't think it will hold me back as much as my weigh OCD would have me think... Plus, I could always pony up for some lightweight custom alloy wheels in a year or two if I still want to.
And, yes, I know I should remove the plastic from the rotor and paper tag from the caliper prior to high speed use. LOL
08-19-2013, 04:10 AM
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Over the summer months I have made some progress. Pace has slowed to a crawl due to the increased activities of summer and my kids being home during the day, but that is far from a complaint.
When I have worked on the car it has been in short bursts, and I have neglected to take pics, which I know takes some of the fun out of the thread. We fit the seats, harnesses, pedals, and all the aluminum. We mounted the engine and took measurements needed for harness and driveshaft.
My use of the CTS-V style trans required some creativity for shifter mounting. Unlike F-body (Camaro/Firebird) style T-56s that mount the shifter right on the tail-housing of the trans, the CTS-V shifter is remote mounted, but with solid linkage.
The bad news, is with linkage at stock length, the shifter position is right were a chassis tube was (already removed in the pic). In a car Brunton built, they cut down the linkage to fit more like an F-body trans. We decided to move the chassis tube and create a mounting point to support the shifter.
The goal from the start was to trial fit most of the components, then take it apart to have the chassis powder coated. We got to that point, and I found a reasonable local powder coater. I'm proud to say I tore the car down to bare chassis in a mater of less than two hours! I was pretty excited to reach this milestone!
One week later:
We already have the front suspension back in place, and bent up some brake lines. Soon we will plumb the fuel system. I put in another nearly $1k order to Summit for car electric harness and fuel system parts, fittings etc. I think I can see light at the end of this tunnel!
When I have worked on the car it has been in short bursts, and I have neglected to take pics, which I know takes some of the fun out of the thread. We fit the seats, harnesses, pedals, and all the aluminum. We mounted the engine and took measurements needed for harness and driveshaft.
My use of the CTS-V style trans required some creativity for shifter mounting. Unlike F-body (Camaro/Firebird) style T-56s that mount the shifter right on the tail-housing of the trans, the CTS-V shifter is remote mounted, but with solid linkage.
The bad news, is with linkage at stock length, the shifter position is right were a chassis tube was (already removed in the pic). In a car Brunton built, they cut down the linkage to fit more like an F-body trans. We decided to move the chassis tube and create a mounting point to support the shifter.
The goal from the start was to trial fit most of the components, then take it apart to have the chassis powder coated. We got to that point, and I found a reasonable local powder coater. I'm proud to say I tore the car down to bare chassis in a mater of less than two hours! I was pretty excited to reach this milestone!
One week later:
We already have the front suspension back in place, and bent up some brake lines. Soon we will plumb the fuel system. I put in another nearly $1k order to Summit for car electric harness and fuel system parts, fittings etc. I think I can see light at the end of this tunnel!
08-19-2013, 05:14 AM
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The rear suspension is all about turning corners, not launching, but I gotta see what it will do! I keep kicking around the idea of running drag radials on the back for the street...
I have two 1/2 mile drag strips nearby. I even hit a test and tune night with my Colorado since I didn't have a fun car running. 15 flat @92.65 is not bad for an entirely stock truck I guess. The best I ran with my 02 Z28 (stock LS1 w road race suspension) was 13.1 @110. I'm not sure what to expect form the Brunton, but imagine it will be quite a trill ride!
I hope to get to a test and tune night w the M-spec before 2013 runs out.
08-20-2013, 12:24 AM
#40
Can't wait until this one is done