WCRiot

I have been lurking these forums reading about the LS1 swaps that you are all doing or have done. I have been Google searching to learn more and more. I am finally ready to start moving things along.

I have a 1954 Chevrolet 210 Deluxe that I would like to swap the LS1 into. I am working with a local hotrod shop to develop a bolt in transmission crossmember for the 4L60E. We are almost done working out the details. I have a 3rd generation Camaro rear end (10 bolt) with posi Trac and disc brakes.

I have been look at engine and transmission combos on Craigslist and Ebay so I have a fairly good idea of the pricing of these packages and what you get for your money. Here are some of my basic questions that I would like to know based on your experience.

1. Is it worth the extra money to buy the Aluminum block based LS engines? From what I see the change over to look like an LS engine is pretty simple and inexpensive (Intake manifold, valve covers and throttle body).

2. What additional parts did you wish you purchased with your engine and transmission? Because most of the sellers are salve yards they have complete cars for me to strip as I please. It seems like buying a wiring harness kit from an aftermarket vendor is the better and more popular route. What about ECM? Throttle pedal? Whatever else you wish you had got with your engine.

3. Would you rather pay extra money for a lower mileage original engine? Or buy a less expensive higher mileage engine and rebuild? There are my two considerations.

4. Some engines I have seen do not come with the accessories. Is this a big deal? My car has a Power Steering rack. I will be adding air conditioning and heating to the car but I think that most people that do this buy a kit, like Vintage Air which comes with everything you need. What are your thoughts on this?

5. Should I get the fuse box from the donor car/truck?

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I would just do an iron 5.3 because they are reliable as can be, plenty of power and dirt cheap. I would find one with 100k or less and just run it. I bought a conversion harness so it would look cleaner and be a lot easier to install. If you can fit the truck accessories in your application get the entire motor with everything bolted to it.

Basically grab as much as you can from the donor car and if you dont use stuff sellit to recoupe some money.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

1. It depends on what external parts you need to run. If you need a f-body oil pan, intake, accys, and exhaust manifolds well then it might be worth it to spend the extra for an aluminum LS1. Or if you really need it to be lighter weight. On the other hand if your swap will clear the truck accys and intake the iron blocks are a lot cheaper and more available.

2. It depends how much you like using factory parts. I would get as much as possible. If your getting a DBW engine you will want to get the pedal and TAC module. If its DBC I like to use the factory throttle cable, its always worked great for me. I have always re-worked the factory wiring and flashed the PCM for my swaps. Even radiator hoses can be useful, if only for mockup.

3. Go for the lower mileage its much less expensive to pay a little more for a low mileage engine than to rebuild one. But don`t be too scared of mileage. I know someone with a 5.3L that had 265k on it when they swapped it in and it now has over 300k + at least 100lbs of nitrous through it and most of the nitrous was sprayed at 200hp shots. It rattles and clacks a bit and you can tell its down on power but it actually still runs really well.

4. From what I have found it always seemed to be cheaper overall for me to buy it complete with accys. Unless of course you already have a stack of LS brackets, bolts and accys. I have always used the LS compressor and made up lines to connect back to the host cars A/C system.

oldgoat69

G-body is spot on. Don't hesitate to use a 5.3. They are a fantastic value, and relatively cheap. I can't say enough about getting "EVERYTHING" possible with the engine. Many here have purchased the entire donor car and kept it around until the swap is complete. You just never know what little stuff you will run into. You may find that many of the pieces to restore the rest of the car can be retro fit with parts from the donor.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I'll just add:
1. I actually prefer the iron blocks. LS1s have not been made in 10 years. I see more and more people getting used LS1s that are really tired or just shot. LS2/3s are getting ridiculous money.
2. Everything! Sensors (ie. O2, MAF), pedal, TAC, intake tube/filter, exhaust flanges, intank fuel pump, accessories, harness, ecu, brackets. As much as possible. Never know what might work for your swap.
3. Go lower milage, easy to find on iron blocks, price difference isn't much between hi/low milage motors.
4. Buying accessories new is expensive. Always get them with the motor. There can be issues using the LS AC compressors. I went with aftermarket kits from Classic and Vintage air.

schreurs1

I wouldnt be afraid of a high mileage engine. I bought a 5.3 iron block for 300 bucks fom an 07 Silverado hybrid with 246k with harness and accessories from the local junkyard. They wanted nesrly a grand for one with 100k. If its late model and high miles, odds are its been on the highway a lot. Mine looks like its got 50k on it inside and out. If you can find the right one, it saves you a lot of money. JMO

HexenLord

A lot if the trucks had aluminum blocks as an option. The 5.3 L33 is a popular choice because it weighs a little less than most of the aluminum LS engines, has a bit higher compression than most of the other truck engines and has the stronger LS2 rods. For a truck engine they are pretty strong, making about the same HP/cube as an LS1.

I've seen people pick them up for 500 bucks. Some of the other newer aluminum truck engines are more common in yards and often about the same price. If you're wanting aluminum but are worried about the price, keep them in mind. For 250 or so extra you can get a complete ls1 intake manifold and water pump if you prefer that look.

WCRiot

Thank you for all the helpful information. I have edited my original post to ask if a Fuse block from the donor car is a good idea to get as well? If I buy the aftermarket wiring harness kit does this come with a fuse block or not?

I know I can Google this info. but while I have your attention. What vehicles did the L33 come in?
What are some other good vehicles to use as a donor?

BobKovacs

Aftermarket harnesses will come with a fuse block and relays.

WCRiot

I just got off the phone with the company that I was going to work with to develop the transmission crossmember kit and a few more concerns have come up.

The motor mounts I have are lower to the crossmember than others. The concerns that have come up are:
1. Will I ever be able to find an oil pan that would work
2. Will I ever be able to find an exhaust manifold that would work?

Blackpony

iTrader: (6)

for my swap i found an aluminum ls1 shortblock with 2 spun rod bearings for $250, found a set of used 241 heads for $100 and scounged this site for the rest of the parts. All in all with a fresh motor with 0 miles, built my own harness and had everything I could powdercoated, I spent around $2500 total for my swap. I have about $1300 in the motor itself, and the rest was spent on everything else. I would recommend buying an aftermarket harness though. It was a pita modifying the factory harness, or at least get a factory harness and send it off to get setup as a standalone harness.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

If you had a small block chevy in it before then you shouldn't have any trouble finding a pan to fit you application. The F-body pans will give you the most ground clearance and you can have them modified if the sump will not work with your crossmember.


I would think that stock F-body manifolds would fit. I'm using the f-body manifolds in my A-body with no issues and I think you've got more room to work with.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

9 years if you count the '04 GTO...lol

Seriously though OP, plenty of shops can sell you a good wiring harness with the fuse box as well. If you happen to get a donor car that has the harness then it may be cheaper to get that stock harness modified. And for the love of God don't forget to grab the ECM...ask me how I know.

HexenLord

2005–2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD
2005–2007 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD

As for oil pan, any of the LSX swap pans should work if it had a SBC in it before. Most prefer the Holley Pan, as do I. There is also the autokraft pan, the Mast pan, and a few others. The FBody pan sump is too wide and might not clear the crossmember unless you sit the motor a little further back. The truck pan will clear, but the sump is very deep and depending on how low the engine is to the ground, you might have clearance issues. The pans made specifically for swaps use a shorter 5 - 6" deep sump for optimal ground clearance.

WCRiot

This was a very helpful answer. I didn't know that companies were modifying the factory harness, I thought they only sold brand new ones.
I will try and get the ECM at the same time. This shouldn't be a problem if I get a complete setup
Some sellers are selling the motor, trans, hardness, ECM as a package. others only sell the motor and trans.
Good info. Im glad I asked.
So the L33 is only from a 4WD. That will make it harder to find but I will look.

WCRiot

Assuming I am able to buy an engine from a truck, L33 or other. Should I use the 4l60 transmission from that same truck or should I try and find one from a car?
Fitment under the car would be a concern too. Which ever 4l60 is more compact would be the better choice for me.

I have to cut my driveshaft tunnel because the car is slammed to the ground, but if the transmission will fit without too much cutting I would be grateful!

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Do not get a 4wd transmission I believe the ouput shaft is differnt (not a deal breaker since any trans shop can swap it out for a 2wd...for a fee) Otherwise a 4l60e behind an LS is pretty much the same...except behind a C5 where it's a little different for the rear mount setup. Some people claim they got their trans in without beating the tunnel, others had to either cut or bang on it. Mine fit without modification to the tunnel because I cut the hell out of my front cross member to slide the engine forward. I have seen where the right mounts and engine adapters can make it easier to get the trans to fit with a little fenagaling. Also do not discount the '04-06 CTS-V pan. I have it in both my swaps and it's a good fit.

WCRiot

The L33 engine seems to be as expensive as an LS1 from a Camaro or Corvette and hard to find.
What is the next best engine choice assuming I cant find the L33?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

If you are wanting to swap out the accessories, pan and intake it may be cheaper to find a complete LS1 to start with. Those parts add up incredibly fast. I picked up my 2002 LS1 on ebay for $1995 and the wrecking yard was local so I had no shipping fees.

Here's a good deal on complete package. Offer the dude $2900
http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-04-Camaro-Corvette-LS1-engine-Automatic-transmission-Wiring-Computer-Complete-/321113954348?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac3e2182c&vxp=mtr

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

$3k+ sounds like a lot for what this is, an entire Fbody with an auto isn't worth much more than that. This would probably be more convenient though.