rat_rod_russell

Sorry, I forgot to start this thread over here so you'll all get some catch up post.

Looking at these photos again is sad, just wait until you see what was under the paint. Lets just say, we're using the hood....... And that's it.........

Later
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

Part 1

rat_rod_russell

The really sad thing is that we didn't end up using the bed either, just the hood.

-Russell

rat_rod_russell

BEHOLD, the new truck. Found on Craigs List with 2-3 hours of searching for 2-3 days. BARN FIND!! See how little rust is on the cab.

rat_rod_russell

More to come as I get the frame dialed into the computer!

-Russell

rat_rod_russell

We got the scanning done. We've been slamming out TriFive Frames and working out nicer instructions for it in the processes and that's taken up a ton of time but it will all cross over to the truck project.








I'm getting the data sorted into the computer then I can start with the frame design.

More Soon!
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

Got the data mostly sorted and I've been deciphering the factory assembly manual for what each model is, like a model 3104 is your basic short wheel base 2WD truck but change that 0 for a 5 making it 3154 and now its the 4WD model. 3105 is the panel truck but a 3106 or 3116 is a Suburban with different rear doors. You basically have to memorize all of these because a random body mount or hole will be on the blue print but have a number next to it.

So to make it simple. Our frame will only be for the Short Wheel Base cars or the 3100 series. You will have a nice place to cut the frame and make it longer for guys wanting to do custom wheel base cars (I'm going to make a shop truck with a 16" flat bed on this frame) and we might make a kit for it later on or your just going to have to put on your big boy hot rodder pants and just cut it yourself.


Now onto this car. I send these a few days ago to a few people when I just




So I wanted to check the motor clearance as well so I dropped the LQ4 in as well to see how it looked. The goal is to make sure you won't need mod the firewall and it looks like we're going to have plenty of room.








So I'll go over some of the ascetic choices. First I'm moving the wheel base out from 114 to 115. I'm moving the front wheels forward to fill the well better but I'm moving them forward by 1.00". The back wheels always look fine but the front always looks to far back and this makes it look correct with the lower body.



Feel free to ask questions and I'll start answering so I can send people here instead of writing the same email over and over again.

Later
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

So I just got a little more data into the computer about the bed and then I remembered. For a no body modifications frame the floor board of the cab and the motor aren't the biggest problem...... Its the bed and the rear suspension. Turns out at 6" off the ground the bed hits the differential pretty badly. So we're going with 8" off the ground as your "I want corvette suspension but I don't want to cut my body period!" option seen here. This will give you miles under the hood and a completely stock bed as well for guys who just want to buy everything OEM stock ish for finish out.



And 4" off the ground, seen here. The frame will be shaped as such that even this low you won't need to cut the bed steel braces just the wood to clear.



And just for you guys who didn't know this is 14" off the ground or STOCK!



And for it to all make more since here's a cool animation. Click to see the 1080 version with more detail, Warning the image is huge by computer standers so it might take a few to download.



I'm going back to work, you kids keep those question coming. Its egging me on!

Later
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

Updates!

We're making room for lots of tire out back for guys who NEED it and still make it easy to build and fit the 8" ride height without body modifications.






I know a few guys were having trouble with the grid looks so I colored in the sections to make it look correct. Also these are 20" wheels front and rear at the request of the customer to see what they would look like. Again one at 4" and one at 8".





Later
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

Transmission looks like its going to be cake. This is a 4L60E model and its got tons of room. I couldn't find my 4L80 model on the computer.






So the customer asked me to CAD up his wheels to see what they would look like. These are 18" Foose Nitrous II 18" with 245/40/R18 up front and 275/40/R18 out rear.






Also did some pocketing magic and now we've got an even longer shock (we already offered more wheel travel than the major competition.) And I've got miles of room for Ridetech Shockwaves, We area dealer for Ridetech as well so I hope to have that kit worked out soon enough.



Last note, We we'll make these frame rails air tight. You will be able to use the frame as an air tank and no have to mount it anywhere.

Thanks again
-Russell

Jesus Freak

You are seriously gifted at SW

rat_rod_russell

Thanks, I'm self taught. Anyone thinking of playing with just do it. The software isn't as hard as people give it credit.

-Russell

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

So what does one of those fancy FARO arms cost? That sure speeds up the time it would take to make the vehicle in SW.

rat_rod_russell

About what a small car cost. Too much for me. I rent this one from Mike at Absolute Geometries http://www.absolutegeometries.com/ Cool guy and he'll scan in what ever you want. I set up the part and tell him what areas are more important so he can focus the data on those areas.

Later
-Russell

rat_rod_russell

Update time. I'm having to pocket the suspension cradle into the tubing rail on this frame compared to older designs for other cars. Got room for the Air Ride on the back for guys who want to run that way and I'm making room for all the body mounts right now.

Jimbo1367

Thats gonna be bad azz. Very cool!!!

rat_rod_russell

Thank you sir!







Getting close, I've got 280 lbs of frame in the computer now we're just dialing in the fine details, making sure all cuts are normal to the surface, giving the tabs the proper tolerances, and working on clearing some small sections on the body and making decisions on where and if we want to do a little cutting on the bed braces. I also whipped up a set of Foose Nitrous II's in 18's for the customer to get a feel for the look on them.

I've got most of the prototype frames spoken for, so it won't be long now!

Later
-Russell

markbsae

Very nice drawing, solidworks? Where did you get your oe Corvette pickup points? I couldn't find a cad file of dimensions for the OE locations for nothing. I'm also putting C4 suspension in a truck but I'm keeping the transverse monoleafs.

rat_rod_russell

Solidworks indeed. I haven't found anything written in stone either, So I scanned the parts into 3D and measured the hell out of them. Plus having built over 10 different custom chassis's for different cars with C4 stuff and almost 100 of our TriFive C4 frames and the Black and White 57 I used to Autocross, I've got a little practice and understanding of how they work.
(I miss this car) http://www.streetfire.net/video/Black-Widow-1957-Chevy_709382.htm
This will be a kit frame offered by us for guys who want to build their own frame. These two videos show how our TriFive C4 Frame goes together without a Jig.

My suggestion on the Mono Leaf Springs is this. Springs control your car, Shocks control your springs. Will these be "The" springs your car need to be right? And will you have the right amount of shock to keep the springs in check?

We set our frames up for Coil Over Shock and Ridetech Shockwaves but I will only use double adjustable or better dampeners on our car. Every car and owner is a bit different. That car will need to be sprung differently for each owner and each spring needs a different shock to keep it in check. You can't do that with mono leafs and stock shocks. It might be good enough but it will never be right and from my experaince at that point it will only be a matter of time before you stop driving it because its not as good as ________.

Just my .02 from dealing with Hot Rod suspension and Customer Psychology most of my adult life. But the chassis in your SIG looks like its on the right track, have fun with it.

Later
-Russell

markbsae

Regarding the OE corvette mounting points, I had a neighbor with a '93 I used for measurements but you can't bank on anything held in place by a rubber bushing, because the spring attachment is towards the rear of the knuckle and the dog bones attach from the front you get the knuckle rotating on the axle centerline as the bushings creep over time. I was never able to get the same mounting point measurements as the used car as I did with mine and new bushings. I am using the transverse monoleafs but I will tune them to the corner weights as well as have the bilstein's revalved to suit. What I am up against is getting the ride height correct with the appropriate spring weight for each end. There are many OE spring rates but the lighter the pring rate the more the spring is curved Obviously the truck with virtually no cast iron will be several hundred pounds lighter than the curb weight of the '93 Corvette as well as having a markedly different front/rear weight bias.

On your truck chassis, just curious but what is the reasoning for the twin frame rails? Is it to makeit easier to hit the cab mounts?