5.3 into a 72 Chevelle
07-12-2013, 01:23 PM
#1
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5.3 into a 72 Chevelle I am in the planning stages of putting a 5.3 (Now I have an 6.0 LQ9)in my Chevelle. I have a motor out of a 02 or 03 Tahoe that is drive by cable. For now I am planning on keeping the truck intake but may put in a cam. May even try my hand at porting the heads. I am also planning on doing the harness myself. For the fuel system I think I am going to by a Tanks Inc tank and pump combo off of Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321123392463...84.m1436.l2649
For the headers I am planning on the Ebay SS headers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200735730362...84.m1436.l2649
I guess I will bite the bullet and buy the Holley oil pan.
From what I have been able to dig up, the truck intake and accessory drive will work but I may have to swap out the ps pump pulley.
My end goal for this car is a hot cruiser that I can drive anywhere and appears stock until you pop the hood. I want the AC to work and want to keep my factory gauges. For now I am going to keep the TH350 transmission with plans to put in a 700R4 or have a 4l60E built with a 700R4 tailshaft. I am going to keep the factory gauges no matter what. Any advice will be apreciated, I havent bought anything yet.
For the headers I am planning on the Ebay SS headers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200735730362...84.m1436.l2649
I guess I will bite the bullet and buy the Holley oil pan.
From what I have been able to dig up, the truck intake and accessory drive will work but I may have to swap out the ps pump pulley.
My end goal for this car is a hot cruiser that I can drive anywhere and appears stock until you pop the hood. I want the AC to work and want to keep my factory gauges. For now I am going to keep the TH350 transmission with plans to put in a 700R4 or have a 4l60E built with a 700R4 tailshaft. I am going to keep the factory gauges no matter what. Any advice will be apreciated, I havent bought anything yet.
Last edited by abritton77; 03-09-2014 at 09:17 AM.
07-12-2013, 03:18 PM
#2
Suggest you research the A-Body threads.. Most likely your going to find all of your answers there or at least get you in the right direction
You can view my build.. the link is in my sign. I would suggest trying to get the 4L60E and not have to do it again, better to do it once. !
Keep the build thread going with Pictures..
BC
You can view my build.. the link is in my sign. I would suggest trying to get the 4L60E and not have to do it again, better to do it once. !
Keep the build thread going with Pictures..
BC
07-12-2013, 05:31 PM
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I want to use it but I just dont want it hanging down. I looked under my car today just to try to talk myself into it but I just dont think I would be satisfied. I'm on a budget but Im gonna go ahead and spring for it I think. I have thought about modifying the truck pan and am going to do some more thinking about it before I pull the trigger. So far I haven't been able to find anybody that is happy about the muscle car pan. Im trying to sell off unused stuff to fund the swap and so far I have enough for the tank and headers. I will probably go ahead and order that this weekend.
07-13-2013, 06:27 AM
#7
If it's a budget, check out the CTS-V pan, it is below the crossmember, but just barely. Pic below.
You can save money using a caprice tank and Racetronics pump. Also check out the OEM plastc fuel lines and fittings, about 1/3 the cost of an AN setup.
Link to my 72 Olds with 5.3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
You can save money using a caprice tank and Racetronics pump. Also check out the OEM plastc fuel lines and fittings, about 1/3 the cost of an AN setup.
Link to my 72 Olds with 5.3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
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07-13-2013, 09:12 AM
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If it's a budget, check out the CTS-V pan, it is below the crossmember, but just barely. Pic below.
You can save money using a caprice tank and Racetronics pump. Also check out the OEM plastc fuel lines and fittings, about 1/3 the cost of an AN setup.
Link to my 72 Olds with 5.3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
You can save money using a caprice tank and Racetronics pump. Also check out the OEM plastc fuel lines and fittings, about 1/3 the cost of an AN setup.
Link to my 72 Olds with 5.3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html
07-14-2013, 01:10 PM
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I used the truck accessories on mine. I had to swap the power steering pulley to clear the power steering box. I also had to machine the head off of one bolt on the steering box to clear the pulley. The pulley I used is off of a Ford E150 van with the 5.0 6cyl. I am also using the Jeep Grand Cherokee power steering box. This is in a 66 model using 1" setback mounts to keep the transmission bellhousing in the stock location. Here is a picture of how close it all is.
Also I had some tie rod clearance issues with the Holley pan. My tie rods had the grease fitting for the inner tie rod located on end of the tie rod. They hit my pan at full lock. I greased them good, removed the fittings, and put plugs in the hole. I plan to change the tie rod ends to ones that have the grease fitting on the front side to eliminate clearance issues.
Also I had some tie rod clearance issues with the Holley pan. My tie rods had the grease fitting for the inner tie rod located on end of the tie rod. They hit my pan at full lock. I greased them good, removed the fittings, and put plugs in the hole. I plan to change the tie rod ends to ones that have the grease fitting on the front side to eliminate clearance issues.
07-14-2013, 09:23 PM
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I pulled the trigger on the tank and headers. Ive gotta raise more cash before I can get the pan. Ive made up my mind on the holley oil pan. Its not the cheapest option but I dont want to have to redo something later.
07-15-2013, 04:35 PM
#13
The modified F-body pan has less steering interference. Check the heights of each pan at the rail and you will see what I mean. The Holley pan is good but I think the modified F-body or the Mast oil pan allows for better steering lock to lock depending on the height of the engine when installed.
You definitely don't want to change the Muscle/truck pan once the motors in the car. I had to drop the pickup and windage tray in the pan with the motor jacked up.
You definitely don't want to change the Muscle/truck pan once the motors in the car. I had to drop the pickup and windage tray in the pan with the motor jacked up.
07-16-2013, 10:04 AM
#14
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The modified F-body pan has less steering interference. Check the heights of each pan at the rail and you will see what I mean. The Holley pan is good but I think the modified F-body or the Mast oil pan allows for better steering lock to lock depending on the height of the engine when installed.
Fox is correct...here's a couple of pics of my F-body pan steering clearance...
Using 1" setback mounts I didn't have to modify my pan at all.
F-body pan is about half the cost of the Holley piece also...
07-19-2013, 06:32 AM
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I got the tank and headers in and been reading allot about the harness. Planning on getting started on it next week. Has anybody been using the stock truck radiator fan? Maybe I haven't noticed, but haven't ran across a thread that I can remember where the stock fan was retained. Im hoping that I dont have to buy a electric fan, but if I do what are you guys using? Ive heard that a ford taurus fan from somtime in the 90's was pretty good. I was thinking F body fans may be a good option. Using some of them on another project that Ive got.
07-19-2013, 10:21 AM
#17
I just talked to a Holley Sale/Tech guy (Scott) last night at a GTG... He gave me some news...
The Holley pan has a new lower Baffle with doors that you can buy and add to existing Holley pans.. this has been known for a while know.
But new News is that they are releasing another model of the pan. The Front sump will be shorter (more like the F-Body depth) and also have notches in the area that the A-Body Steering ends come in to contact. Wasn't sure, but he thinks the rear sump area might change also (?)
We will see...
BC
The Holley pan has a new lower Baffle with doors that you can buy and add to existing Holley pans.. this has been known for a while know.
But new News is that they are releasing another model of the pan. The Front sump will be shorter (more like the F-Body depth) and also have notches in the area that the A-Body Steering ends come in to contact. Wasn't sure, but he thinks the rear sump area might change also (?)
We will see...
BC
