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Old 08-03-2013, 10:57 AM   #1
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Default Warning: "redesigned" Russell fittings

Hey guys, just had a REALLY close call with the new style screw type Russell quick connect fittings. Spewed 1/4 tank of fuel in my engine bay, popped the hood and heard it sizzling on the headers.

Won't use Russell products again
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:00 AM   #2
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please provide more details, which fitting, part #, picture please
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:09 AM   #3
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please provide more details, which fitting, part #, picture please


Yes...I'd be interested in more details also...
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:49 AM   #4
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644113

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Old 08-03-2013, 11:58 AM   #5
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that is the first failure of one of those fittings I have heard of. Did the oring fail or did it come loose or what?

If you want to maintain the push on EFI setup that is the only fitting to use, the ones with the plastic clip have a myriad of failures listed everywhere. I would not turn anyone off of these fittings until there is solid proof it wasn't installer error
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:09 PM   #6
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The lock cap came loose and popped off, I inspect them every time I check the oil as well.

I will be getting rid of quick connects as soon as possible.
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #7
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Loctite?
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:44 PM   #8
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I would be interested in more details and if you contacted Russell, along with what they said. One occurance out of thousands is not going to change my mine to run out and do something without some solid facts and root cause... "The Sky is Falling"!

Did you follow instruction, did you encounter any issues while installation, was the tube that the QD connected to clean and defect free. Did you over or under tighten.... too many question for a first report of something that failed and the first report.

Not trying to put down any credit on your part, personal skills or anything.. just needing more fact... just the nature of my person job type...ask for more facts...there is always a root cause...!

But on this note, as I have said many times, I braze AN male bungs on tube end where I can to eliminate any of these types of problems. It is also cheaper and more secure....Just saying...

Well be following the thread..

BC
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #9
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Loctite?
Not on aluminum parts, and not so close to the fuel rail

Quote:
Originally Posted by bczee View Post
I would be interested in more details and if you contacted Russell, along with what they said. One occurance out of thousands is not going to change my mine to run out and do something without some solid facts and root cause... "The Sky is Falling"!

Did you follow instruction, did you encounter any issues while installation, was the tube that the QD connected to clean and defect free. Did you over or under tighten.... too many question for a first report of something that failed and the first report.

Not trying to put down any credit on your part, personal skills or anything.. just needing more fact... just the nature of my person job type...ask for more facts...there is always a root cause...!

But on this note, as I have said many times, I braze AN male bungs on tube end where I can to eliminate any of these types of problems. It is also cheaper and more secure....Just saying...

Well be following the thread..

BC
I understand there's a lot of variables. I work with aluminum threaded parts often and have a good feel for when it's tight, just before stripping.
The tube connection is in great shape, no dings or scratches.

I'm going to put another one on and start collecting parts to revamp my fuel system.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #10
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I had some fail too on a 2003 infinity ls1 swap. I prefer the ones with the plastic retaining clips after they are fully seated. Anyone want my junk ones can have them. O ring leaked badly and the parts unscrewed. I just see better options like u-wrench-it and scrounging a pile of factory fittings. My local hydraulic shop can crimp them after I cut the original sleeve off the outside. Nothing like factory parts in this instance.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:19 PM   #11
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Now I may need to rethink where I want to place vette fuel filter/regulator. I'll be using 3 of these fittings with it.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:54 PM   #12
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Sorry to hear. I am using the same style fitting. The way it functions it really doesn't need to be tightened other than to prevent it from coming apart so I wonder if it would be worthwhile to drill through the side and wire it somehow so it can't loosen.
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:00 PM   #13
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Safety wire maybe? Im all for the plastic clip type. Hell the factory did them with plastic clips! I think either style can be made to work safely.
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:50 PM   #14
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I plan on power adders soon, so larger lines and fuel rails will be a must anyway. I'll run this style until I get all the parts I need.

I'd only run the dorman plastic style ones if I did that style, the Russell ones are garbage IMO
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:01 PM   #15
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Bummer cause i really dig the concept of them! I do wonder if there is anyway of doing some kind of safety wire or other anti-back-off something to ensure they dont loosen.
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:38 PM   #16
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How about OE style nylon lines? Dorman makes a great looking kit. You can go from steel to nylon with compression fittings. Not sure what was done at the sending unit but many of the newer tubing flare kits come with dies to make the quick connections. The Dorman kit is not that expensive but the flare kit is. Offset the cost of equipment by doing your friends cars. I will definitely use this on my next fuel system since a friend already has the flare kit.

Check the following link for more info.

my own fuel line debate ,cant decide.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:01 PM   #17
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They all have a "possibility" of failing. I still prefer the Russell over any of the others.
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #18
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Has anyone cut the factory o-ring flare off, and flared the end of the fuel rail to female AN?
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Old 08-03-2013, 10:31 PM   #19
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Has anyone cut the factory o-ring flare off, and flared the end of the fuel rail to female AN?
Not a bad idea, b-nut and flare.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:12 AM   #20
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I thought about flaring it but there isn't enough length on it to put the flaring tool on and the hardware that has to sit behind it while you make the flare. I think brazing an AN fitting is your best bet if you want to go AN.
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