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New DBW problem

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Old 11-23-2013, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Stev0n
I wired up an obd2. The only code i got was P0118.

the pedal was working, opening the throttle body for a minute or two, then stopped working again. ran the scanner again, but still no other codes
p0118 is a temp sender code
DTC P0118
Circuit DescriptionThe engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a variable resistor, that measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The ECT sensor has a signal circuit and a low reference circuit. The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies 5 volts to the ECT signal circuit and a ground for the ECT low reference circuit. When the ECT is cold, the sensor resistance is high. When the ECT increases, the sensor resistance decreases. With high sensor resistance, the PCM detects a high voltage on the ECT signal circuit. With lower sensor resistance, the PCM detects a lower voltage on the ECT signal circuit. If the PCM detects an excessively high ECT signal voltage, which is a low temperature indication, DTC P0118 sets.
Old 11-23-2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 62n62
p0118 is a temp sender code
DTC P0118
Circuit DescriptionThe engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a variable resistor, that measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The ECT sensor has a signal circuit and a low reference circuit. The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies 5 volts to the ECT signal circuit and a ground for the ECT low reference circuit. When the ECT is cold, the sensor resistance is high. When the ECT increases, the sensor resistance decreases. With high sensor resistance, the PCM detects a high voltage on the ECT signal circuit. With lower sensor resistance, the PCM detects a lower voltage on the ECT signal circuit. If the PCM detects an excessively high ECT signal voltage, which is a low temperature indication, DTC P0118 sets.
yeah, that's because i didn't have the temp sensor plugged in when I wired the obd2 up.
Old 11-24-2013, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Stev0n
I checked all the wires on the throttle body plug. None of then are loose.

EDIT

Here's an interesting twist.

If I turn the key ON, the pedal won't work.
But if I take the negative battery cable off then put it back on, the pedal will start working for a few seconds then stop again.
If I take the cable off, then put it right back on, it will work again for a few seconds.

wiggling the battery cable or trying to tighten it seem to have no effect once it stops working. Taking it off and putting it back on is the only way make the pedal/TB start working again.
So does anyone have any clue to this?
Old 11-24-2013, 04:39 AM
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If it remains idling after the pedal quits working, it's going into limp mode. When you disconnect the battery a couple seconds, it clears the limp mode.
It's reading a mismatch between the APP sensor readings. My 02 did that and did not throw a code. May have something to do with the tune.
Just for clarification, when you said it was working,, did that mean driving it?
If so, try a new pedal position sensor. About $35.
Old 11-24-2013, 10:16 AM
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When I did mine I had an 06 pedal and Tac with an 04 PCM / tune. Car would start fine but as soon as I used the pedal the CEL would come on and pedal would stop responding. Clearing the code would make it work, only to fail a short time later.

I changed PCM / tune to an 06 so that everything matched, no problems since. I was told that everything needs to match....
Old 11-24-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
If it remains idling after the pedal quits working, it's going into limp mode. When you disconnect the battery a couple seconds, it clears the limp mode.
It's reading a mismatch between the APP sensor readings. My 02 did that and did not throw a code. May have something to do with the tune.
Just for clarification, when you said it was working,, did that mean driving it?
If so, try a new pedal position sensor. About $35.
it does remain idling.
And i was able to drive it without a problem before the pedal stopped. The day it stopped working, I had to ease off the clutch to let it pull itself while idling to get it home.

Last edited by Stev0n; 11-24-2013 at 12:45 PM.
Old 11-24-2013, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 64Velle
When I did mine I had an 06 pedal and Tac with an 04 PCM / tune. Car would start fine but as soon as I used the pedal the CEL would come on and pedal would stop responding. Clearing the code would make it work, only to fail a short time later.

I changed PCM / tune to an 06 so that everything matched, no problems since. I was told that everything needs to match....
All the physical parts came from the same truck, but i will double check the VIN on the tune.
Old 11-24-2013, 12:46 PM
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The APP sensor has 2 or 3 potentiometers, 2 of which are opposite each other. If the voltage decrease on one doesn't match the voltage increase on the other, it goes into limp and just idles. So corrosion or crud in one will do that. Mine always stayed in limp until I disconnected the battery. Pumping the pedal a few times cleaned it up and it will generally run all season.
was going to ask about it all matching, but since it ran quite a while, you replaced the TAC, I suspect it's the APP sensor.
Old 11-24-2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
The APP sensor has 2 or 3 potentiometers, 2 of which are opposite each other. If the voltage decrease on one doesn't match the voltage increase on the other, it goes into limp and just idles. So corrosion or crud in one will do that. Mine always stayed in limp until I disconnected the battery. Pumping the pedal a few times cleaned it up and it will generally run all season. was going to ask about it all matching, but since it ran quite a while, you replaced the TAC, I suspect it's the APP sensor.
I've probably pumped that pedal 7-800 times in the last month trying to figure this out. Lol.

I found one sensor in town at autozone for $65. Picked it up and it seems to have fixed the problem. Thank you very much! I'll report back in a few days if it is still working.

I wish I would've bought it first before getting another TAC & throttle body.



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