LQ4 swap into an S14
#1
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LQ4 swap into an S14
I just bought a 96 240 with no motor or transmission. I bought this car with the objective of putting a ls based v8 in it for road racing. I will update this first post whenever I buy something so that I can keep track of cost easily and so that I have a full list of mods for anybody to easily read instead of digging through posts.
Car - $750
Solid diff bushings - $55
LQ4 long block - $550
Daft motor mounts - $100
T56 with shifter, ls7clutch/flywheel, and slave but no bell housing -$1000
LS1 intake with throttle body and fuel rail - $180
LS1 crank pulley - $45
Injectors - $50
Ecu and harness - $350
Bell housing - $200
Total so far = $3280
Car - $750
Solid diff bushings - $55
LQ4 long block - $550
Daft motor mounts - $100
T56 with shifter, ls7clutch/flywheel, and slave but no bell housing -$1000
LS1 intake with throttle body and fuel rail - $180
LS1 crank pulley - $45
Injectors - $50
Ecu and harness - $350
Bell housing - $200
Total so far = $3280
Last edited by partemisio; 12-28-2013 at 07:03 AM.
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Right now i just want to get it running as quickly as money will allow. I wanted an aluminum block for road racing but I couldn't beat the price for this motor. From research this motor and a t56 will be less weight than the stock motor/trans anyway.
#4
Even if you gained a few lbs the power compared to OEM would negate any noticeable difference. I agree the aluminum is ideal but hell for the price of these iron blocks, the strength, and reliability....you cant beat it. I have a spare LM7 short block I picked up for a whopping $250 and I will be on the hunt for an aluminum L33 5.3 short block over the winter just to have.
Here is my old thread for my build in case you wanted to check it out. I havent updated the thread but I have changed direction on a few things so far and am much further along than where this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...you-think.html
Here is my old thread for my build in case you wanted to check it out. I havent updated the thread but I have changed direction on a few things so far and am much further along than where this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...you-think.html
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Even if you gained a few lbs the power compared to OEM would negate any noticeable difference. I agree the aluminum is ideal but hell for the price of these iron blocks, the strength, and reliability....you cant beat it. I have a spare LM7 short block I picked up for a whopping $250 and I will be on the hunt for an aluminum L33 5.3 short block over the winter just to have.
Here is my old thread for my build in case you wanted to check it out. I havent updated the thread but I have changed direction on a few things so far and am much further along than where this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...you-think.html
Here is my old thread for my build in case you wanted to check it out. I havent updated the thread but I have changed direction on a few things so far and am much further along than where this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...you-think.html
Originally Posted by niscur29
Congrats man...I got a Ls9 powered s13. Tottaly worth it after big turbo sr and vh45. Please don't cheap out and get cxracing mounts. Spend a few more bucks and run the hooker setup.
The main thing I need to figure out is if it's worth it to buy a custom harness or if it's easy enough to make a stock ls harness work (keeping in mind I want my factory gauges to work and for a/c to work).
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#8
^^^if you have any wiring skills its supposed to be very easy to setup a stock harness. I am a complete electronic/wiring idiot so I bought a Painless Standalone harness. It would have been nice to save the cash but with no skills it wasnt something I was willing to take on the task.
Damn $100 for Daft Mounts is a steal.....nice score.
Damn $100 for Daft Mounts is a steal.....nice score.
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^^^if you have any wiring skills its supposed to be very easy to setup a stock harness. I am a complete electronic/wiring idiot so I bought a Painless Standalone harness. It would have been nice to save the cash but with no skills it wasnt something I was willing to take on the task.
Damn $100 for Daft Mounts is a steal.....nice score.
Damn $100 for Daft Mounts is a steal.....nice score.
Yeah, I thought they looked to be pretty good quality and knew how much some of the swap kits are, so I jumped on them. Here's a picture of them.
#10
Yes very good quality mounts...nice score.
If you go standalone wiring I have personally seen 2 companies which make harnesses that are of great quality, 1-Wiring Specialties (amazing work) 2-PSI Harness (great work).
If you go standalone wiring I have personally seen 2 companies which make harnesses that are of great quality, 1-Wiring Specialties (amazing work) 2-PSI Harness (great work).
Last edited by 2muchboostNY; 11-07-2013 at 04:48 PM.
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I have gathered some more parts for the car now. I will update the first post with the prices I paid for these. The next thing I am gonna do is replace all the gaskets on the motor once I get an oil pan. Then I will drop everything in and start making my transmission cross member. The t56 came with an ls7 clutch, flywheel, shifter, and slave/ release bearing, no bell housing though.
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Same as those. And I am using a J30 diff. From what I read, all of them are fairly strong from the factory.
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Are you using a DBW throttle body? The Nissan control should do all the functions that the TAC module looks for......on signal and accel, decel. Just check what wires do what on the Nissan end with a test light.