Project RIP IT- C-10
07-10-2015, 08:00 AM
#221
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got a significant amount of work done last night.
Probably 2-3 hours of work and be ready to start. Still need to figure out my pinout for cam sensor, I can install intake until I do that. I assumed that I would not really need to change the tune much. But I didn't take into account smaller stock cam vs LS6, so curious how that will effect it.
Probably 2-3 hours of work and be ready to start. Still need to figure out my pinout for cam sensor, I can install intake until I do that. I assumed that I would not really need to change the tune much. But I didn't take into account smaller stock cam vs LS6, so curious how that will effect it.
07-11-2015, 07:44 AM
#223
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buttoned it all up last night.
Motor cranks and bumps oil pressure on gauge. But no start. I'm almost positive its not getting spark.
I think I had the coil rack pigtails backward at first, swapped those and still no luck. Though maybe a bad crank sensor, since I had left what came in the motor. So I put my old one from 5.3 in, still no bueno. Has 150 psi on the #1 cyl that I checked real quick just to make sure. Has fuel pressure at rail. but I tried a shot of starting fluid just to see... No luck
So I need to I guess start pinning wires for power. Not sure what else would be keeping it from starting.
Motor cranks and bumps oil pressure on gauge. But no start. I'm almost positive its not getting spark.
I think I had the coil rack pigtails backward at first, swapped those and still no luck. Though maybe a bad crank sensor, since I had left what came in the motor. So I put my old one from 5.3 in, still no bueno. Has 150 psi on the #1 cyl that I checked real quick just to make sure. Has fuel pressure at rail. but I tried a shot of starting fluid just to see... No luck
So I need to I guess start pinning wires for power. Not sure what else would be keeping it from starting.
07-13-2015, 07:43 AM
#225
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Been long weekend of getting no where. As usual with this truck.
I went home after work Saturday and blew off a birthday party to get it going, I had the cam/crank pigtails backwards. So that fixed, fired right up. Bolted on the downpipe and pulled it outside. Started miss firing once warm, and I had issues with air pocket in cooling system. So jacked the truck up and just kept adding water for about 20 minutes while idling and got air out.
I still don't know if it was actually misfiring or a tune issue like I've had in past. I drove it probably 10 miles around town, felt pretty much same as the 5.3. Was great to be back in driver seat.'
Sunday I had planned for Mark to come lean out and dial in the tune for the 4.8. Started on it at 8 am, did some small things (recalibrated wideband, fixed an exhaust leak) and started trying to log. Were having issues getting hp to get data, so came back to house.
Had key on and writing a tune and noticed a fountain of fuel shooting over driver fender and immediately shut key off... BAD PLAN.
After spending an hour or more trying to fix the fuel leak from rail, ended up being a rail brackets were bent in, all I had to do was pull outward on rail and bend it back parallel with intake. Fixed.
And figure out that we ****ed my computer from shuting key off while writing a tune. Great. So 2 hours of driving and $140 later, got another 0411 loaded/licensed again. Got it re-installed and runs SUPER rich. So looks like I get to start over on tune again.
I am definitely in state of mind of getting the tune lined out and getting some track passes on it and selling/trading it for a cruiser/slow car that will be reliable. This endless money/work to keep a "fast" truck going just isn't worth it.
I went home after work Saturday and blew off a birthday party to get it going, I had the cam/crank pigtails backwards. So that fixed, fired right up. Bolted on the downpipe and pulled it outside. Started miss firing once warm, and I had issues with air pocket in cooling system. So jacked the truck up and just kept adding water for about 20 minutes while idling and got air out.
I still don't know if it was actually misfiring or a tune issue like I've had in past. I drove it probably 10 miles around town, felt pretty much same as the 5.3. Was great to be back in driver seat.'
Sunday I had planned for Mark to come lean out and dial in the tune for the 4.8. Started on it at 8 am, did some small things (recalibrated wideband, fixed an exhaust leak) and started trying to log. Were having issues getting hp to get data, so came back to house.
Had key on and writing a tune and noticed a fountain of fuel shooting over driver fender and immediately shut key off... BAD PLAN.
After spending an hour or more trying to fix the fuel leak from rail, ended up being a rail brackets were bent in, all I had to do was pull outward on rail and bend it back parallel with intake. Fixed.
And figure out that we ****ed my computer from shuting key off while writing a tune. Great. So 2 hours of driving and $140 later, got another 0411 loaded/licensed again. Got it re-installed and runs SUPER rich. So looks like I get to start over on tune again.
I am definitely in state of mind of getting the tune lined out and getting some track passes on it and selling/trading it for a cruiser/slow car that will be reliable. This endless money/work to keep a "fast" truck going just isn't worth it.
Last edited by static low 92; 08-02-2015 at 07:36 PM.
07-13-2015, 08:32 PM
#226
Well that sucks, but honestly, I don't think its as bad as I was imagining via texts. I know why you keyed off while writing the tune, but really that was just a honest freak out dumb mistake. All in all, that was a $140 mistake. It sucks, but bricking a ecm honestly can happen any time your writing to one. Maybe once you get it tuned, and get a few passes in on it, you'll feel better about it.
07-14-2015, 07:37 AM
#227
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Talked with machine shop yesterday. Got the answer I pretty much expected. Its a "hotrod" no warranty. So instead of spending 200-300 to fix it and sell it for 400-500... which is just dumb. The best way to attempt to not completely loose my *** on this motor is going to be part out what I have.
So that's where im at with that. Got majority of it apart last night. Need to pull the balancer to get the oil pump/chain/cam out still and see if that stuff has any damage.
So that's where im at with that. Got majority of it apart last night. Need to pull the balancer to get the oil pump/chain/cam out still and see if that stuff has any damage.
07-24-2015, 11:26 AM
#229
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its been together for almost 3 weeks, and basically been just sitting. I thought my issues were tune related, finally got someone to come hook it up.
Not a tune issue. I have a dead #4 coil, I assume in my computer swap fiasco I pulled a wire out of bulkhead connector. Which is a nightmare to mess with because I almost have to pull the intake to get to it. So its sitting until I feel like messing with it.
As soon as its running/tuned and I fix a few small things it will be for sale.
Tired of messing with it.
07-27-2015, 07:33 AM
#230
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I decided to finally work on my coil issue yesterday. I expected to find the #29 pin (#4 coil) pulled out. It wasn't.
So I ohm'd it out, checked good. Just to make sure I check several other coil pins and all good. So without any other ideas I put it back together and checked the cranking voltage at coil connector again and it was seeing voltage now? No idea. maybe something was loose? I suspect maybe I didn't have the bolt that hold the bulkhead to the ecu tight enough is all I can think.
It runs again. Put about 20 miles on it beating it around town. I really want to get some issues worked out before the For Sale sign goes in it, but I feel like it just isn't gonna let that happen
So I ohm'd it out, checked good. Just to make sure I check several other coil pins and all good. So without any other ideas I put it back together and checked the cranking voltage at coil connector again and it was seeing voltage now? No idea. maybe something was loose? I suspect maybe I didn't have the bolt that hold the bulkhead to the ecu tight enough is all I can think.
It runs again. Put about 20 miles on it beating it around town. I really want to get some issues worked out before the For Sale sign goes in it, but I feel like it just isn't gonna let that happen
Last edited by static low 92; 08-02-2015 at 07:39 PM.
10-16-2015, 01:29 PM
#234
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok people. Let throw some opinions at this deal.
I'm back at throwing ANOTHER motor in the cursed C-10. In a bind on how to move forward right now.
I started messing with my Aluminum 5.3 that was bare sitting in basement. I had the line bore checked and it was off. So that got fixed. Then I got a call about cylinder walls being an issue as well. Needing a light bore to straighten them back out. At this point it has been free labor so im not out. BUT a decent boost ready new set of pistons for a 5.3 is basically only offered by Wiseco to the tune of $805.... This is my issue. I could buy 2 complete engines for price ill have to get 5.3 back together. I already bought a crank and its currently being check and polished ($130)
Option B- the blown 4.8 that's currently in the truck.
I could jerk it apart, have all aspects checked on it (line bore, Cylinders) and stab in my good 5.3 rotating assembly for basically nothing. Just need to purchase parts/gaskets that I would have needed for the 5.3 anyway. But I won't know if the 4.8 is gonna need machine work until its out. Which poses issues for moving it around, getting it on trailer etc.
I really didn't want to have $1500 into this 5.3, but I will KNOW that it will be right. I will take as much meticulous measurements etc assembling the 4.8 as well... And I really like idea of keeping an Iron block. Not sure if my goals of making 700+ and going 10s is still on books or not. I really just want a reliable driver that runs decent.
AND GO!
I'm back at throwing ANOTHER motor in the cursed C-10. In a bind on how to move forward right now.
I started messing with my Aluminum 5.3 that was bare sitting in basement. I had the line bore checked and it was off. So that got fixed. Then I got a call about cylinder walls being an issue as well. Needing a light bore to straighten them back out. At this point it has been free labor so im not out. BUT a decent boost ready new set of pistons for a 5.3 is basically only offered by Wiseco to the tune of $805.... This is my issue. I could buy 2 complete engines for price ill have to get 5.3 back together. I already bought a crank and its currently being check and polished ($130)
Option B- the blown 4.8 that's currently in the truck.
I could jerk it apart, have all aspects checked on it (line bore, Cylinders) and stab in my good 5.3 rotating assembly for basically nothing. Just need to purchase parts/gaskets that I would have needed for the 5.3 anyway. But I won't know if the 4.8 is gonna need machine work until its out. Which poses issues for moving it around, getting it on trailer etc.
I really didn't want to have $1500 into this 5.3, but I will KNOW that it will be right. I will take as much meticulous measurements etc assembling the 4.8 as well... And I really like idea of keeping an Iron block. Not sure if my goals of making 700+ and going 10s is still on books or not. I really just want a reliable driver that runs decent.
AND GO!
10-16-2015, 03:17 PM
#235
What's wrong with a $500 5.3 from the yard with gapped rings? Mine took a beating for a long time and didn't give up. Plus if it does....... well then you just go back to the yard and get another $500 motor. I once bought 7 from a local yard and they gave me a bulk discount. $350 each. After watching what stock 4.8/5.3s will take I am not motivated to build another ls ever again. They are a dime a dozen in the yards now
10-17-2015, 07:59 AM
#236
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's wrong with a $500 5.3 from the yard with gapped rings? Mine took a beating for a long time and didn't give up. Plus if it does....... well then you just go back to the yard and get another $500 motor. I once bought 7 from a local yard and they gave me a bulk discount. $350 each. After watching what stock 4.8/5.3s will take I am not motivated to build another ls ever again. They are a dime a dozen in the yards now
I have considered what your saying, but I feel like its still way more work than I want to do everytime, because I just won't leave it alone. I feel like im required to at minimum stud heads.... and obviously swap oil pans. And then of course the cleanup/prep and paint. and if I have to take out piston/rod assemblies everytime to gap rings... that's just to much. I easily could buy minimum of 2 if not 3 complete engines for what im dump into this LH6, but it WILL be right.
10-17-2015, 03:25 PM
#237
Youre likely right. But ive been around long enough to know, everything will fail when enough is demanded of it. Swapping a motor in a square body is only a bit more work than an oil change. I had my trans out four times over a weekend after i built it. Nothing worse than killing a freshly built motor. All i do to 5.3s is LS9 headgaskets, LS6 cam, ebay studs, ARP 2000s and a ported shimmed oil pump. They take 10-15 lbs and make good numbers. Big numbers in a square body is useless anyway. They dont have the chassis to dig or go fast and even if you find a way to make them do that, the brakes and steering will scare you away from doing it again. I swap squares bc i mainly want a truck to......work.
10-17-2015, 03:44 PM
#238
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Youre likely right. But ive been around long enough to know, everything will fail when enough is demanded of it. Swapping a motor in a square body is only a bit more work than an oil change. I had my trans out four times over a weekend after i built it. Nothing worse than killing a freshly built motor. All i do to 5.3s is LS9 headgaskets, LS6 cam, ebay studs, ARP 2000s and a ported shimmed oil pump. They take 10-15 lbs and make good numbers. Big numbers in a square body is useless anyway. They dont have the chassis to dig or go fast and even if you find a way to make them do that, the brakes and steering will scare you away from doing it again. I swap squares bc i mainly want a truck to......work.
I agree on steering and brakes. Truck hasn't ever let me invest money anywhere but putting drivetrains in it. So haven't upgraded anything chassis let. I want it todo Work for sure.... Working over mustangs lol
