72 Nova - The Booboo Project LS/4L65e
03-06-2016, 12:50 PM
#201
Everything looks and sounds great!! Congrats. DO you recall the details of the airfilter? Inlet diameter, length/height etc... ? P/N and vendor?
thanks,
Jim
thanks,
Jim
03-06-2016, 07:40 PM
#202
Spectre 9774 MAF Coupler GM
Spectre 97990 90° 4" 7" Leg
Spectre 9719 4" Straight 6" Long
Spectre 9771 4" Coupler x2
eBay - 4"x4" Silicone Tube for Throttle Body and Pipe
I think the air filter I bought it either at Autozone or Advance as I had a discount coupon. Regular 4" air filter. I don't have the box with me any more, pretty sure this is the one Spectre Air Filter 8131,
03-07-2016, 05:04 PM
#203
Got a call from the trans shop, told me to swing by. So I did. Got there and they showed me something I could not believe. The magnet on the pan was covered in metal. Then I saw this. Now I know for a fact that from now on I'll be everything new. If it is a matter of a few thousands dollars more so be it, but the money I have spent in fixing this ****ing engine and trans I could have bought a new LS3 with a T56.
His thinking is that maybe, when I was having the trans problem not getting full 12v to the solenoids, the trans could have been pumping at high psi and when I went to move the car into 'R' it had too much pressure on the lock ring that it could have failed that way.
They do not know where it is from yet, but he suspects its part of the teeth that hold the rear clutch lock ring. The picture below is from a different case, but basically they look to be from here. If this is the case I will be needing a new case, which would be easy to find. The case has to be a 'K' numbered case, at least it means the case is harder than the rest.
While the car was up in a lift I went through the bottom of the car. Found to see the passenger shock had slid forward on the bottom 'T'
Called Hotchkis regarding this, and they have never seen something uncommon as this happen. It is an easy fix at least.
His thinking is that maybe, when I was having the trans problem not getting full 12v to the solenoids, the trans could have been pumping at high psi and when I went to move the car into 'R' it had too much pressure on the lock ring that it could have failed that way.
They do not know where it is from yet, but he suspects its part of the teeth that hold the rear clutch lock ring. The picture below is from a different case, but basically they look to be from here. If this is the case I will be needing a new case, which would be easy to find. The case has to be a 'K' numbered case, at least it means the case is harder than the rest.
While the car was up in a lift I went through the bottom of the car. Found to see the passenger shock had slid forward on the bottom 'T'
Called Hotchkis regarding this, and they have never seen something uncommon as this happen. It is an easy fix at least.
05-28-2016, 06:58 PM
#204
Well, car is back at the house after 5+ weeks of sitting without its engine and trans on a lift at the tranmission shop, Transmax.
After being told I was insane buy purchasing a new engine and harness at a total cost of $8000 after shipping etc, I decided to pull the engine and have it sent it out to be done. The final cost for everything done for transmission and engine was $5800 --- $3500 for the trans installed and $2300 for the long block. I ended up installing the intake, priming the engine and firing it up.
The engine went through a major overhaul. The crank needed to be polished and the bearing all line honed and checked. It seemed that the stock bearing were off as for specs for the crank and rods as well. So everything was done correctly and I even had the pistons flycut for the intake valve. The old pistons were used as they were in very good condition and there was no need to replace them. Cam bearing replaced as well. Block was tanked, magnafluxed and checked for any imperfections and the block passed with flying colors. The engine was built by the shop as well, and I had to change the pushrods to 7.375" length instead of the 7.4" I had before.
Here are a few pics of the parts used in the trans, basically a Sonnax Level 3 Performance
Smart-Tech® Input Housing Kit 77733-06K with a 300mm shaft
Servo, new one is on the right
Input sun gear comparo, stock top new bottom
Oh one little snafu I had was, I bought a new flexplate, the engine shop gave me a PRW 1834610 flexplate 14" 168 tooth. Well after installing the engine and mounting the trans back up, went to crank it and we could see that the starter was not engaging. So yeah!!! lets drop the trans down AGAIN and see WTF is going no, well here are some pictures we took after placing both flexplates on a flat surface and making sure the left side of both flexplates matched up.
Here is the picture showing the left side matching,
And here is the right side, as you can see, the new flexplate from PRW was slightly larger causing the starter not to work.
So I mounted the engine back with the old flexplate, cranked the engine and it started right up. Oil pressure at 50psi, idled so and so, but it sounded healthy. Shut the car off and checked for leaks and anything else around it. Uploaded a new map from the tuner, and went out for a drive. WHAT A DIFFERENCE it makes when the trans is done right! It shifts so smooth, quick and responsive. Did not go over 3000rpm as I still need a good tune which will be done Monday and I am still in the breaking process. But it is so easy to break loose the tires now that the power is transferred immediately.
After being told I was insane buy purchasing a new engine and harness at a total cost of $8000 after shipping etc, I decided to pull the engine and have it sent it out to be done. The final cost for everything done for transmission and engine was $5800 --- $3500 for the trans installed and $2300 for the long block. I ended up installing the intake, priming the engine and firing it up.
The engine went through a major overhaul. The crank needed to be polished and the bearing all line honed and checked. It seemed that the stock bearing were off as for specs for the crank and rods as well. So everything was done correctly and I even had the pistons flycut for the intake valve. The old pistons were used as they were in very good condition and there was no need to replace them. Cam bearing replaced as well. Block was tanked, magnafluxed and checked for any imperfections and the block passed with flying colors. The engine was built by the shop as well, and I had to change the pushrods to 7.375" length instead of the 7.4" I had before.
Here are a few pics of the parts used in the trans, basically a Sonnax Level 3 Performance
Smart-Tech® Input Housing Kit 77733-06K with a 300mm shaft
Servo, new one is on the right
Input sun gear comparo, stock top new bottom
Oh one little snafu I had was, I bought a new flexplate, the engine shop gave me a PRW 1834610 flexplate 14" 168 tooth. Well after installing the engine and mounting the trans back up, went to crank it and we could see that the starter was not engaging. So yeah!!! lets drop the trans down AGAIN and see WTF is going no, well here are some pictures we took after placing both flexplates on a flat surface and making sure the left side of both flexplates matched up.
Here is the picture showing the left side matching,
And here is the right side, as you can see, the new flexplate from PRW was slightly larger causing the starter not to work.
So I mounted the engine back with the old flexplate, cranked the engine and it started right up. Oil pressure at 50psi, idled so and so, but it sounded healthy. Shut the car off and checked for leaks and anything else around it. Uploaded a new map from the tuner, and went out for a drive. WHAT A DIFFERENCE it makes when the trans is done right! It shifts so smooth, quick and responsive. Did not go over 3000rpm as I still need a good tune which will be done Monday and I am still in the breaking process. But it is so easy to break loose the tires now that the power is transferred immediately.
06-01-2016, 07:13 PM
#205
Had Matt from Nomad Tuning swing by the house at 5:30pm. We set up and made sure everything was fine with laptop communication etc, and set out for the street tune at 6pm.
We drove the car for about 10min first until Matt started playing with numbers and things. First thing he fixed was the knock sensor table as it was all over the place. Then fuel trimming, and more sourcery here and there. Few more flash to the PCM and the car is running great.
Today my wife took it for a 1hr drive with Lucas in the back. She told me she cannot believe the difference it makes when the car runs well. From my point of view, the car runs smooth, idles perfect at 850rpms, no richness. Trans is super quick shifting.
For now it seems to be in the good happy place. The only concern, not to important really, is that the IAT (intake air temperature) is a bit high when at a stop light or idle. It would sit at around 150° on a 90° temp, but would drop once the car was moving. Not a major issue, the only thing I lose is performance maybe 5-8hp, so I am ok. Will figure out a way to enclose the intake and have a air duct to it in the future.
For now, drive the car easy till the 500 mile mark, do the oil change and check everything around it. Then do the same at the 2500 mile mark again and repeat every 2500 miles.
Now that I have the engine, trans, and that side of the car in good shape I can charge it and enjoy the $1700 Vintage Air system.
I was bored today, and decided to mount the Norris Oil Catch Can. This was the only place that could be mounted, hidden, and still do its duties.
I think it should be ok there. The only thing is, I thought I had enough 3/8" hose in one of my boxes, well I was wrong.
I had enough for one side, so tomorrow I'll go and get the extra hose I need and probably the AC stuff so I can charge the system.
---edit---
The car is really dirty, i think a quick air blow to get rid of the dust and wash is at hand.
We drove the car for about 10min first until Matt started playing with numbers and things. First thing he fixed was the knock sensor table as it was all over the place. Then fuel trimming, and more sourcery here and there. Few more flash to the PCM and the car is running great.
Today my wife took it for a 1hr drive with Lucas in the back. She told me she cannot believe the difference it makes when the car runs well. From my point of view, the car runs smooth, idles perfect at 850rpms, no richness. Trans is super quick shifting.
For now it seems to be in the good happy place. The only concern, not to important really, is that the IAT (intake air temperature) is a bit high when at a stop light or idle. It would sit at around 150° on a 90° temp, but would drop once the car was moving. Not a major issue, the only thing I lose is performance maybe 5-8hp, so I am ok. Will figure out a way to enclose the intake and have a air duct to it in the future.
For now, drive the car easy till the 500 mile mark, do the oil change and check everything around it. Then do the same at the 2500 mile mark again and repeat every 2500 miles.
Now that I have the engine, trans, and that side of the car in good shape I can charge it and enjoy the $1700 Vintage Air system.
I was bored today, and decided to mount the Norris Oil Catch Can. This was the only place that could be mounted, hidden, and still do its duties.
I think it should be ok there. The only thing is, I thought I had enough 3/8" hose in one of my boxes, well I was wrong.
I had enough for one side, so tomorrow I'll go and get the extra hose I need and probably the AC stuff so I can charge the system.---edit---
The car is really dirty, i think a quick air blow to get rid of the dust and wash is at hand.
07-20-2016, 07:31 PM
#211
Updates? Not much really. Just did the 500 miles oil change. Had the AC charged and it works great. Car is running strong, but need to figure out a way to cover the air intake. I bought the Spectre 4376 Heat Shield, but it does not fit due to the 4th gen camaro radiator being slightly wider.
I will have to go get a aluminum sheet and make my own. The IATs are through the roof when I am at a stop. I also want to add some sort of lip on the 1st cross member of the frame to pull air up and into the engine bay. At the same time open the windows on the hood cowl, as right now there are only 1" high when they could be at least 3" high.
Adding to the list is trying to finish the parking brake. Have not had much time lately, and to be honest it is hot as hell here in Orlando. But I will eventually get some of these things done.
I will have to go get a aluminum sheet and make my own. The IATs are through the roof when I am at a stop. I also want to add some sort of lip on the 1st cross member of the frame to pull air up and into the engine bay. At the same time open the windows on the hood cowl, as right now there are only 1" high when they could be at least 3" high.
Adding to the list is trying to finish the parking brake. Have not had much time lately, and to be honest it is hot as hell here in Orlando. But I will eventually get some of these things done.
08-06-2016, 08:31 PM
#212
I got rear ended back in June two blocks away from my destination. After a month and a half waiting to get everything resolved, I got the go ahead to drop the car at the body shop and have it fixed. Nothing too crazy, just sucks that it happened. It was somewhat challenging due to insurance from the other party etc, but got it going. The appraiser who came did his job, but not thoroughly though. Once the body shop took the bumper out we found the real damage.
Part of the frame separated from the rear tail panel
Also the dent done to the panel as well, the rear left bumper bracket got pushed in. The car has been set on a frame puller, and they were going to bring everything back to normal again. The trunk was not closing due ot the center being pushed in as well.
The body shop requested a supplement to cover the actual damage, so after a few phone calls, pictures to insurance and such the supplement was approved, which was good news.
Oh, had to buy left tail light, bumper, left bumper bracket, license plate bracket and light. Should be getting the car back hopefully mid week next week. Cannot wait, kinda weird not seeing the car in the garage. At least the wife is happy as her car sits there for the time being. Hey happy wife happy life, not sure what will happen once Booboo is back, but I assume she will still be happy to have her car back as well.
Got some pictures today, progress going.
At the same time, he offered me a trade. He would to the body of the car while I do a full wiring, LS swap on his 73 Firebird. So uhm, yeah, I do not have a problem with that at all. He did suggest to pick a true GM blue color for it, and I was thinking about the '16 SS Slipstream Blue Metallic
Adding to this I can have the windshield and rear window replaced as well. We are going to go over the numbers and time on monday and see what we can agree on.
Part of the frame separated from the rear tail panel
Also the dent done to the panel as well, the rear left bumper bracket got pushed in. The car has been set on a frame puller, and they were going to bring everything back to normal again. The trunk was not closing due ot the center being pushed in as well.
The body shop requested a supplement to cover the actual damage, so after a few phone calls, pictures to insurance and such the supplement was approved, which was good news.
Oh, had to buy left tail light, bumper, left bumper bracket, license plate bracket and light. Should be getting the car back hopefully mid week next week. Cannot wait, kinda weird not seeing the car in the garage. At least the wife is happy as her car sits there for the time being. Hey happy wife happy life, not sure what will happen once Booboo is back, but I assume she will still be happy to have her car back as well.
Got some pictures today, progress going.
At the same time, he offered me a trade. He would to the body of the car while I do a full wiring, LS swap on his 73 Firebird. So uhm, yeah, I do not have a problem with that at all. He did suggest to pick a true GM blue color for it, and I was thinking about the '16 SS Slipstream Blue Metallic
Adding to this I can have the windshield and rear window replaced as well. We are going to go over the numbers and time on monday and see what we can agree on.
08-26-2016, 08:39 PM
#213
Well car is under surgery right now.
This is what we found under 1" of bondo,
not cool, lol But it is getting fixed. they pulled it out as much as possible, and they have the rear quarter almost done. The previous people did such a poor job.
The car covered in dust,
Took the side chrome trims
And we decided to paint the car in the Corvette ZR1 Jetstream Blue, as it resembles pretty close to the blue color that the Nova has now.
This is what we found under 1" of bondo,
not cool, lol But it is getting fixed. they pulled it out as much as possible, and they have the rear quarter almost done. The previous people did such a poor job.The car covered in dust,
Took the side chrome trims
And we decided to paint the car in the Corvette ZR1 Jetstream Blue, as it resembles pretty close to the blue color that the Nova has now.
08-27-2016, 08:08 AM
#214
Glad to see the insurance fixed Booboo. It looks real nice now.
I love the Jetstream blue.
I love the Jetstream blue.
08-28-2016, 10:39 AM
#216
From the first few pics you posted of your car I could tell it had 1/2 quarter patch panels on it. How you ask? Back in the early to mid 90's all you could easily get were those panels and the rear marker light is about a couple inches too far forward, which is the location of them on the 73-74 Novas. I know this because I put the same exact panels on my car and didn't catch it until I was putting the car back together and the wires didn't reach the lights, now 99% of the people who saw it never noticed it, but it always bugged the hell out of me. When I repainted mine last in '99 I put new quarters on it again and the problem was solved. Not sure how far along your body guy is, but I figured I'd mention it so you knew.
Your car has come a long was and is turning out real nice! I really like the blue you've picked out for it.
Your car has come a long was and is turning out real nice! I really like the blue you've picked out for it.
08-28-2016, 07:00 PM
#217
Maybe your Chevelle and my Nova belonged to the same person or immediate family?
From the first few pics you posted of your car I could tell it had 1/2 quarter patch panels on it. How you ask? Back in the early to mid 90's all you could easily get were those panels and the rear marker light is about a couple inches too far forward, which is the location of them on the 73-74 Novas. I know this because I put the same exact panels on my car and didn't catch it until I was putting the car back together and the wires didn't reach the lights, now 99% of the people who saw it never noticed it, but it always bugged the hell out of me. When I repainted mine last in '99 I put new quarters on it again and the problem was solved. Not sure how far along your body guy is, but I figured I'd mention it so you knew.
Your car has come a long was and is turning out real nice! I really like the blue you've picked out for it.
Your car has come a long was and is turning out real nice! I really like the blue you've picked out for it.
Wow, I did not know that about the side markers. Thanks on today's lesson Side Markers 101, hahaha, by any chance do you have the distance of the side markers in relation to the rear section of the panel?
