72 Nova - The Booboo Project LS/4L65e
04-09-2014, 09:30 AM
#81
So it IS for a Nova specifically? Wonder why they wouldn't make the filler neck on it like factory? I assume it has a hose to put the neck on, so what supports the outer part of it? Do you have to make a bracket behind the license plate to hold it? Sorry for all the questions, but when I do my next Nova, I want a tank set up for EFI so I don't have to mod another one.
04-09-2014, 12:31 PM
#82
Yes it is Nova specifically. As for the filler neck not being like factory is mainly for box size and cut cost in shipping. The coupler used for the neck is very hard rubber, so it should be fine without any brackets.
These are pictures that ovrdrive took at stevenovasite
Here is the tank installed.
ovrdrive was lucky enough to be one of the testers.
I will be updating here later with more pictures, install measurements etc. Jut did not have enough time yesterday to do everything.
These are pictures that ovrdrive took at stevenovasite
Here is the tank installed.
ovrdrive was lucky enough to be one of the testers.
I will be updating here later with more pictures, install measurements etc. Jut did not have enough time yesterday to do everything.
04-12-2014, 08:27 PM
#83
Tank is all set. It was not as easy as someone would think. First of the size of the pump is just plain stupid. If they would have made the hole and mounting plate 1/2" larger it would make that part of the installation a breeze.
Also they forgot to mention to double check the way that the sock is going to go, because once that sucker is in, it is there for life. In one of the pictures you can see the orientation that the sock need in order to sit without any obstruction from the fuel baffle.
The sender was just plain annoying, where according to the directions I needed 3.5" from the bottom of the sender plate to the center of the rheostat. But they fail to realize that the spacing in the bracket was short. More info with pictures below.
I would say this when you start. Measure 5 times, and if you can with different tape measures just to make sure that your readings are correct. For my tank I had the following depth. FYI you also want to make sure you are not measuring close the wall of the baffle as there is a curve.
I do not have any pictures of the pump assembled.
I guess between the frustration and being 'on a roll' I forgot to take pictures. I did measure everything 5x just to make sure I was not going to cut the hoses short or long.
As per instructions it mentioned to use some Indian Shellac in order to help with the seal. It would be nice that after spending $580+ they would give you a small tube with this product. I had to go and buy one and used a very small amount of it. The rest will go to waste as it will sit on a shelf.
You spread a small amount between the tank, seal and plate; and let it dry.
Here it shows the direction that the sock needed to be in order to sit without issues inside the baffle.
I decided to work on the sender and this was a whole other task. I measured the depth on the tank and the top of the sender hole. It was 7" and according to their instructions, the rheostat needs to be 3.5" from the bottom of the plate. YEAH NO EFFING WAY!
The space on the plate to where the bolts mount to hold the rheostat is not enough, so I had to drill a hole in order for the top screw to fasten. At the beginning i was filing (which i did not do a very good job) but I then realized I can move the rheostat up and mark where i needed to drill.
You then need to cut the float bar to 4.2" from the center of the float to center of rheostat. At the end you finish with basically the float just a hair before 7" total.
It was time to mount the sender on the tank. Well this is where I just lost my cool. This was my first time doing a sender installation, but for the life of me there is no way of having the insert fall into place without removing the float first.
The way I manged to get this to work was by removing the float. I then placed the float inside the tank holding the end of the rod with some pliers. The sender was then inserted in to the tank and the rod was tighten back on to the rheostat. I was so scared of dropping the float inside the tank, and i think if that would have happened not sure what the outcome would be on the tank, sender or the car in general.
The lack of instructions sometimes on certain things really **** me off. The said not to overtighten the screws, at least put how many lb-ft you want then, should not be that hard. Either way tank is all set, it is a very nice piece. Pretty sure it will work flawlessly, and I cannot wait to have it mounted on the car.
Also they forgot to mention to double check the way that the sock is going to go, because once that sucker is in, it is there for life. In one of the pictures you can see the orientation that the sock need in order to sit without any obstruction from the fuel baffle.
The sender was just plain annoying, where according to the directions I needed 3.5" from the bottom of the sender plate to the center of the rheostat. But they fail to realize that the spacing in the bracket was short. More info with pictures below.
I would say this when you start. Measure 5 times, and if you can with different tape measures just to make sure that your readings are correct. For my tank I had the following depth. FYI you also want to make sure you are not measuring close the wall of the baffle as there is a curve.
I do not have any pictures of the pump assembled.
I guess between the frustration and being 'on a roll' I forgot to take pictures. I did measure everything 5x just to make sure I was not going to cut the hoses short or long.As per instructions it mentioned to use some Indian Shellac in order to help with the seal. It would be nice that after spending $580+ they would give you a small tube with this product. I had to go and buy one and used a very small amount of it. The rest will go to waste as it will sit on a shelf.
You spread a small amount between the tank, seal and plate; and let it dry.
Here it shows the direction that the sock needed to be in order to sit without issues inside the baffle.
I decided to work on the sender and this was a whole other task. I measured the depth on the tank and the top of the sender hole. It was 7" and according to their instructions, the rheostat needs to be 3.5" from the bottom of the plate. YEAH NO EFFING WAY!
The space on the plate to where the bolts mount to hold the rheostat is not enough, so I had to drill a hole in order for the top screw to fasten. At the beginning i was filing (which i did not do a very good job) but I then realized I can move the rheostat up and mark where i needed to drill.
You then need to cut the float bar to 4.2" from the center of the float to center of rheostat. At the end you finish with basically the float just a hair before 7" total.
It was time to mount the sender on the tank. Well this is where I just lost my cool. This was my first time doing a sender installation, but for the life of me there is no way of having the insert fall into place without removing the float first.
The way I manged to get this to work was by removing the float. I then placed the float inside the tank holding the end of the rod with some pliers. The sender was then inserted in to the tank and the rod was tighten back on to the rheostat. I was so scared of dropping the float inside the tank, and i think if that would have happened not sure what the outcome would be on the tank, sender or the car in general.
The lack of instructions sometimes on certain things really **** me off. The said not to overtighten the screws, at least put how many lb-ft you want then, should not be that hard. Either way tank is all set, it is a very nice piece. Pretty sure it will work flawlessly, and I cannot wait to have it mounted on the car.
04-12-2014, 09:00 PM
#84
Launching!
Just curious on the sender installation, couldn't you just cut the bottom off the sender once you have the rheostat mounted which would make it easier to drop it into the tank? Let me know if you have any issues filling the tank. I have a 68 nova and always have to fill it slowly or it will back up spilling a good amount on the ground.
04-14-2014, 07:39 PM
#86
It is finally here! Took some time to get some $$$ going to purchase this, Holley 302-2
I hope to be able to swap pans and finally install the engine soon.
I hope to be able to swap pans and finally install the engine soon.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 04-14-2014 at 07:47 PM.
04-23-2014, 07:51 PM
#87
I ended up making a tube straightener for the front to rear brake and fuel lines.
I bought 3 packs of and a steel 'L' bar as well. I spaced them out at 3" each on one side and on the other in between the 3 rollers.
Then I used some extra tube i had to correct the spacing by washers and i tightened it down on the vise. Then slide the tube and done.
Credits go to Total Performance Post#334
I finished the installation of the Holley 302-2 oil pan as well. I bought a new oil gasket and the LS3 oil tube and dip stick from the dealer. I paid $60 for everything.
A quick picture next to the LH8 oil pan.
I had the GM #12611129 windage tray so I had to cut 1/4 of the tray. I think i measured 4.5" for what had to be cut.
Here is everything torqued back to specs. Remember that the bolt that holds the windage tray under the pickp tube will need to be torqued down first before you do the rest. So make sure you start from there outwards.
I bought 3 packs of and a steel 'L' bar as well. I spaced them out at 3" each on one side and on the other in between the 3 rollers.
Then I used some extra tube i had to correct the spacing by washers and i tightened it down on the vise. Then slide the tube and done.
Credits go to Total Performance Post#334
I finished the installation of the Holley 302-2 oil pan as well. I bought a new oil gasket and the LS3 oil tube and dip stick from the dealer. I paid $60 for everything.
A quick picture next to the LH8 oil pan.
I had the GM #12611129 windage tray so I had to cut 1/4 of the tray. I think i measured 4.5" for what had to be cut.
Here is everything torqued back to specs. Remember that the bolt that holds the windage tray under the pickp tube will need to be torqued down first before you do the rest. So make sure you start from there outwards.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 04-23-2014 at 08:32 PM.
04-23-2014, 08:09 PM
#88
I bought the Flowmaster 815801 tailpipes to test fit and see if they would clear the Hotchkis rear sway bar. [JamesMay voice]GOOOD NEEWSSS[/JamesMay voice] it clears!
I am hoping that the Hooker 42505HKR will clear the dog bones that hold the Hotchkis rear sway bar. From all the pictures I have seen posted from Toddoky it seems it could work.
Maybe I can build the exhaust from here bu adding the muffler and the X-pipe? Or try and see if the Hooker fits and if not return it?
I am hoping that the Hooker 42505HKR will clear the dog bones that hold the Hotchkis rear sway bar. From all the pictures I have seen posted from Toddoky it seems it could work.
Maybe I can build the exhaust from here bu adding the muffler and the X-pipe? Or try and see if the Hooker fits and if not return it?
Last edited by Sebtarta; 04-25-2014 at 12:50 PM.
04-23-2014, 09:16 PM
#90
That tube straightener looks familiar!
Great progress. Everything looks very sanitary.
Really like the fit of those Heidts SFCs. They look similar to the Hotchkis design, but without coating and about half the cost. Great find.
I wish those pre-bent Flowmaster tailpipes were available in 3", but Jegs has something for this application: link
Great progress. Everything looks very sanitary.
Really like the fit of those Heidts SFCs. They look similar to the Hotchkis design, but without coating and about half the cost. Great find.
I wish those pre-bent Flowmaster tailpipes were available in 3", but Jegs has something for this application: link
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 04-28-2014 at 01:58 PM.
04-29-2014, 12:27 PM
#91
That tube straightener looks familiar!
Great progress. Everything looks very sanitary.
Really like the fit of those Heidts SFCs. They look similar to the Hotchkis design, but without coating and about half the cost. Great find.
I wish those pre-bent Flowmaster tailpipes were available in 3", but Jegs has something for this application: link
Great progress. Everything looks very sanitary.
Really like the fit of those Heidts SFCs. They look similar to the Hotchkis design, but without coating and about half the cost. Great find.
I wish those pre-bent Flowmaster tailpipes were available in 3", but Jegs has something for this application: link
The tube straightener worked like a charm. I finished making the line from front to rear. Need to do the fuel line next and keep chugging along.
I also have the Hooker exhaust system coming on Wednesday
. I bought it from Summit, 30min later called to cancel as I had buyer remorse. But it was to late to cancel as it already went through on Holley's side.So will update with more info hopefully by the end of the week.
05-01-2014, 11:00 AM
#92
Call me a whiny bitch for all i care, but here we go.
I received the Hooker 42505HKR 2.5" exhaust system. As usual the lack of packaging or the know how of packaging 101 is on the name brand. For $800 I expect a little better. I paid $160 for the Flowmaster tailpipes and the pipes were packed with Instapak foam and the box is ultra thick.
The finishing on this is not the best. Sharp Sushi knife edges on the pipes, weld spatter all over and metal shaving inside the pipes.
The edge of the box was crushed due to space inside the box.
I guess Captain Hook works for 'Hook'er, pun intended.
No idea if the muffler have a dent or not. I did not remove it and take it out of the box. Last night after going through all of this I was in no mood. In fact it is all packed up and ready to be shipped back for a refund.
This is the 2nd muffler, which i guess one of the pipes had a fight for space during shipping
All the pipes inside had this dust and metal shavings.
So if you do order this system make sure to clean everything inside first before you fire up the engine.
Now the only good news on this is that it seems to clear the Hotchkis rear sway bar.
Not sure if the mounting point is where i placed the pipe, but I really do not care. I realized yesterday that all the LS swap headers that Hooker has made have a 3" collector. This system is 2.5", yes I know there is a 3" but I am not doing any track day nor Auto-X events. No need for the extra 5hp on the top end. Besides the drone is higher when using a 3" from what i have read and the car will be mainly a leisure car. Anyways, it would be nice if the reducers were included in the kit specially when they made the exhaust system fit with the correct length on all the tubes on the 3". So I am pretty sure (correct me if I am wrong here Toddoky) with the use of the reducers the exhaust collector pipes will need to be cut in order to fit correctly.
I received the Hooker 42505HKR 2.5" exhaust system. As usual the lack of packaging or the know how of packaging 101 is on the name brand. For $800 I expect a little better. I paid $160 for the Flowmaster tailpipes and the pipes were packed with Instapak foam and the box is ultra thick.
The finishing on this is not the best. Sharp Sushi knife edges on the pipes, weld spatter all over and metal shaving inside the pipes.
The edge of the box was crushed due to space inside the box.
I guess Captain Hook works for 'Hook'er, pun intended.
No idea if the muffler have a dent or not. I did not remove it and take it out of the box. Last night after going through all of this I was in no mood. In fact it is all packed up and ready to be shipped back for a refund.
This is the 2nd muffler, which i guess one of the pipes had a fight for space during shipping
All the pipes inside had this dust and metal shavings.
So if you do order this system make sure to clean everything inside first before you fire up the engine.
Now the only good news on this is that it seems to clear the Hotchkis rear sway bar.
Not sure if the mounting point is where i placed the pipe, but I really do not care. I realized yesterday that all the LS swap headers that Hooker has made have a 3" collector. This system is 2.5", yes I know there is a 3" but I am not doing any track day nor Auto-X events. No need for the extra 5hp on the top end. Besides the drone is higher when using a 3" from what i have read and the car will be mainly a leisure car. Anyways, it would be nice if the reducers were included in the kit specially when they made the exhaust system fit with the correct length on all the tubes on the 3". So I am pretty sure (correct me if I am wrong here Toddoky) with the use of the reducers the exhaust collector pipes will need to be cut in order to fit correctly.
05-01-2014, 01:04 PM
#94
Call me a whiny bitch for all i care, but here we go.
I received the Hooker 42505HKR 2.5" exhaust system. As usual the lack of packaging or the know how of packaging 101 is on the name brand. For $800 I expect a little better. I paid $160 for the Flowmaster tailpipes and the pipes were packed with Instapak foam and the box is ultra thick.
The finishing on this is not the best. Sharp Sushi knife edges on the pipes, weld spatter all over and metal shaving inside the pipes.
The edge of the box was crushed due to space inside the box.
I guess Captain Hook works for 'Hook'er, pun intended.
No idea if the muffler have a dent or not. I did not remove it and take it out of the box. Last night after going through all of this I was in no mood. In fact it is all packed up and ready to be shipped back for a refund.
This is the 2nd muffler, which i guess one of the pipes had a fight for space during shipping
All the pipes inside had this dust and metal shavings.
So if you do order this system make sure to clean everything inside first before you fire up the engine.
Now the only good news on this is that it seems to clear the Hotchkis rear sway bar.
Not sure if the mounting point is where i placed the pipe, but I really do not care. I realized yesterday that all the LS swap headers that Hooker has made have a 3" collector. This system is 2.5", yes I know there is a 3" but I am not doing any track day nor Auto-X events. No need for the extra 5hp on the top end. Besides the drone is higher when using a 3" from what i have read and the car will be mainly a leisure car. Anyways, it would be nice if the reducers were included in the kit specially when they made the exhaust system fit with the correct length on all the tubes on the 3". So I am pretty sure (correct me if I am wrong here Toddoky) with the use of the reducers the exhaust collector pipes will need to be cut in order to fit correctly.
I received the Hooker 42505HKR 2.5" exhaust system. As usual the lack of packaging or the know how of packaging 101 is on the name brand. For $800 I expect a little better. I paid $160 for the Flowmaster tailpipes and the pipes were packed with Instapak foam and the box is ultra thick.
The finishing on this is not the best. Sharp Sushi knife edges on the pipes, weld spatter all over and metal shaving inside the pipes.
The edge of the box was crushed due to space inside the box.
I guess Captain Hook works for 'Hook'er, pun intended.
No idea if the muffler have a dent or not. I did not remove it and take it out of the box. Last night after going through all of this I was in no mood. In fact it is all packed up and ready to be shipped back for a refund.
This is the 2nd muffler, which i guess one of the pipes had a fight for space during shipping
All the pipes inside had this dust and metal shavings.
So if you do order this system make sure to clean everything inside first before you fire up the engine.
Now the only good news on this is that it seems to clear the Hotchkis rear sway bar.
Not sure if the mounting point is where i placed the pipe, but I really do not care. I realized yesterday that all the LS swap headers that Hooker has made have a 3" collector. This system is 2.5", yes I know there is a 3" but I am not doing any track day nor Auto-X events. No need for the extra 5hp on the top end. Besides the drone is higher when using a 3" from what i have read and the car will be mainly a leisure car. Anyways, it would be nice if the reducers were included in the kit specially when they made the exhaust system fit with the correct length on all the tubes on the 3". So I am pretty sure (correct me if I am wrong here Toddoky) with the use of the reducers the exhaust collector pipes will need to be cut in order to fit correctly.
05-31-2014, 09:57 AM
#96
Progress? Besides buying a straight jacket and locking my self in a small room at the crazy hospital we are good.
I bought the Vintage Air kit for the car. The packages were delivered on May 21st at 11:15am and at 11:38am it was picked up by UPS and sent back to sender. Detroit Speed and Vintage Air have no idea why this happened. UPS has no record of it either. So now I am waiting for those boxes to get back to VA so they can be sent back to me again......so 2 weeks lost on shipping.
I did manage to put the engine in finally, but the bolt does not go through the engine mount plates. At least the engine is on and I am going to go buy a 7/16 bolt size and use that.
So I will continue
and try and get it going once in for all. I also ordered a Dakota Digital gauge and it has the black alloy as the face. Should be delivered soon as long as UPS does not decide to send it back to the sender. 
I have also been working on the exhaust. Just did not finish it as I still need the engine 100% bolted down so I can make the cuts for it and make it fit.
I bought the Vintage Air kit for the car. The packages were delivered on May 21st at 11:15am and at 11:38am it was picked up by UPS and sent back to sender. Detroit Speed and Vintage Air have no idea why this happened. UPS has no record of it either. So now I am waiting for those boxes to get back to VA so they can be sent back to me again......so 2 weeks lost on shipping.
I did manage to put the engine in finally, but the bolt does not go through the engine mount plates. At least the engine is on and I am going to go buy a 7/16 bolt size and use that.
So I will continue
and try and get it going once in for all. I also ordered a Dakota Digital gauge and it has the black alloy as the face. Should be delivered soon as long as UPS does not decide to send it back to the sender. I have also been working on the exhaust. Just did not finish it as I still need the engine 100% bolted down so I can make the cuts for it and make it fit.
06-01-2014, 10:09 PM
#97
Rather than going to a smaller bolt, just slightly loosen the fasteners holding the engine brackets to the engine and the mounts to the frame. You should easily have enough wiggle room to get things together. Then tighten them down and you're in business.
06-02-2014, 07:20 AM
#98
Last night I used a 7/16" bolt and it slid right through with no problems. Also if I am not mistaken stock clamshell mounts require a 7/16" bolt either way don't they?
Last edited by Sebtarta; 06-02-2014 at 09:02 AM.