72 Nova - The Booboo Project LS/4L65e
03-19-2015, 08:43 AM
#142
Thank you, I am hoping to get it running this summer if I manage to sort some things out.
03-19-2015, 08:43 AM
#143
The dreading process of installing sound deadening has begun. I bought 100sqft of MegaMat Butyl based deadener for Noise-Killers on ebay. I know there are much better products out there, but I am not going for a sound competition trophy and did not want asphalt based deadener either. I would have gone with SecondSkinAudio but unfortunatley his shipping was $100 for a $200 cost of material. The SSA damplifier was a slightly better product than the Extreme Mat or Mega Mat, but the foil they use is very thick and it would have been a bitch of an install to go around the contours of the floor and such.
So i used almost 50sqft to do the floor only all the way up the firewall to the back. I still need to finish the rear firewall as well the rear deck. Once all that is done, I will add more on the side panels and doors. I have a small piece stuck to a piece of metal sitting outside now for 2 days, at the end of the week I will see what the heat (not much left of heat to be honest) moisture and other natural habits have done to the piece of MegaMat butyl based stuck to a 18ga piece of metal with no cleaning.
At the same time, I had a friend of mine help me with the wiring. We decided to place the ECM-ECU-PCM on the drivers side wheel fender (no idea what that section is called) and it clear the fender and inner fender perfectly.
We traced the outline of an Delphi ECM flat mounting tray and drilled the holes for some 5/16 nutserts. The tray had to be modified slightly, where the left ear was cut off and a extra hole was added.
From then on we worked on the American Auto Wire kit 500878. It is really nice to work with. Lots of extra terminals and such. There were a bunch of wires that we are not using due to the LS ECM taking over so those were used to bring certain connections from the engine bay inside to the dash. There were also some open pins on the connector block, which those were used for the DakotaDigital temp and oil sensors to connect back to the brain, this way no holes had to be drilled.
I also bought some CleanCut loom in different sizes from FurryLetters with the addition of 4ft of shrink tubing, no idea why i needed this much but for $5 shipped why not!
These are the wires that need to go inside. These are:
I am waiting now on some connectors, I bought a kit of Delphi Weather Pack connectors from Joe at MJMNational, this is the best place I have found to have these connectors. He is great to work with and has helped me out on some questions i had. I will update later with a few things I have in mind. My main reason is being able to disconnect certain areas of the wiring without having to cut wires all over the place when work on the car is needed, example body, paint, or interior etc.
So i used almost 50sqft to do the floor only all the way up the firewall to the back. I still need to finish the rear firewall as well the rear deck. Once all that is done, I will add more on the side panels and doors. I have a small piece stuck to a piece of metal sitting outside now for 2 days, at the end of the week I will see what the heat (not much left of heat to be honest) moisture and other natural habits have done to the piece of MegaMat butyl based stuck to a 18ga piece of metal with no cleaning.
At the same time, I had a friend of mine help me with the wiring. We decided to place the ECM-ECU-PCM on the drivers side wheel fender (no idea what that section is called) and it clear the fender and inner fender perfectly.
We traced the outline of an Delphi ECM flat mounting tray and drilled the holes for some 5/16 nutserts. The tray had to be modified slightly, where the left ear was cut off and a extra hole was added.
From then on we worked on the American Auto Wire kit 500878. It is really nice to work with. Lots of extra terminals and such. There were a bunch of wires that we are not using due to the LS ECM taking over so those were used to bring certain connections from the engine bay inside to the dash. There were also some open pins on the connector block, which those were used for the DakotaDigital temp and oil sensors to connect back to the brain, this way no holes had to be drilled.
I also bought some CleanCut loom in different sizes from FurryLetters with the addition of 4ft of shrink tubing, no idea why i needed this much but for $5 shipped why not!
These are the wires that need to go inside. These are:
- Gray - Speedometer Output
- White - Tachometer
- Light Green - AC Request
- Purple - Brake Switch Signal, TCC
- Light Blue - Cruise Control
- Dark Green - OBDII
- Brown - Check Engine Light
I am waiting now on some connectors, I bought a kit of Delphi Weather Pack connectors from Joe at MJMNational, this is the best place I have found to have these connectors. He is great to work with and has helped me out on some questions i had. I will update later with a few things I have in mind. My main reason is being able to disconnect certain areas of the wiring without having to cut wires all over the place when work on the car is needed, example body, paint, or interior etc.
03-19-2015, 08:44 AM
#144
Small update, with a frustrated outcome. I came home to find UPS, Fedex and USPS at my house quarreling about who made the delivery first. I gave each driver a cookie and sent them back to their package delivery route.
2002 Camaro radiator with fan and hoses. The lower hose Gates 22354 does not work as I assume the radiator on the Camaro sits lower.
The straight 4" intake pipe was sent wrong from Amazon, which was the cheapest place I found that pipe. I had purchased the Spectre 97290 pipe, 4 inch 22 Deg Tube W/7 inch Leg, but I guess they did not have it in stock and decided to send me the straight pipe instead.
I also ordered the AC line for the AC condenser to route back to the AC compressor on the passenger side, as the Vintage Air "SURE FIT" goes to the driver side mounted AC. I will have to send this back, as I have a feeling I will be doing my own lines thanks to VA.
So this SURE FIT from Vintage Air, is not so fitting at all. The AC condenser is already an issue, so I really do not want to know what the rest of this kit is going to be. By having just a simple thing as this not fit correctly it basically tells me to be prepared as more problems are coming.
According to their instructions, they say to bolt the lower plate like this
Basically from the back of the condenser counting 7 holes from the left. When you place the condenser on the rad support you basically find yourself questioning *** were these people smoking, I need some! Picture is not very clear, but you can tell that the bottom mounting plate is too far to the right.
NOW, if we count 7 holes from the RIGHT it lines up with the mounting bolts of the hood latch and brace. The only problem now that I am faced and many others is that the condenser pipe sits on top of the radiator support brace. This leads to move the condenser up in order for it to clear the brace and not bind with anything. In order to this, new brackets will need to be fabricated thus also new AC lines as well.
I was thinking about notching the brace so that corner of the condenser would fit with no issues. But why should I have to cut something, when Vintage Air claims it is a plug and play solution. Bought this some time ago so there is no way for me to return this.
2002 Camaro radiator with fan and hoses. The lower hose Gates 22354 does not work as I assume the radiator on the Camaro sits lower.
The straight 4" intake pipe was sent wrong from Amazon, which was the cheapest place I found that pipe. I had purchased the Spectre 97290 pipe, 4 inch 22 Deg Tube W/7 inch Leg, but I guess they did not have it in stock and decided to send me the straight pipe instead.
I also ordered the AC line for the AC condenser to route back to the AC compressor on the passenger side, as the Vintage Air "SURE FIT" goes to the driver side mounted AC. I will have to send this back, as I have a feeling I will be doing my own lines thanks to VA.
So this SURE FIT from Vintage Air, is not so fitting at all. The AC condenser is already an issue, so I really do not want to know what the rest of this kit is going to be. By having just a simple thing as this not fit correctly it basically tells me to be prepared as more problems are coming.
According to their instructions, they say to bolt the lower plate like this
Basically from the back of the condenser counting 7 holes from the left. When you place the condenser on the rad support you basically find yourself questioning *** were these people smoking, I need some! Picture is not very clear, but you can tell that the bottom mounting plate is too far to the right.
NOW, if we count 7 holes from the RIGHT it lines up with the mounting bolts of the hood latch and brace. The only problem now that I am faced and many others is that the condenser pipe sits on top of the radiator support brace. This leads to move the condenser up in order for it to clear the brace and not bind with anything. In order to this, new brackets will need to be fabricated thus also new AC lines as well.
I was thinking about notching the brace so that corner of the condenser would fit with no issues. But why should I have to cut something, when Vintage Air claims it is a plug and play solution. Bought this some time ago so there is no way for me to return this.
03-19-2015, 08:54 AM
#145
I also had to buy a new wire harness as the one I had came from a company that turned out not be very reputable. I ended up buying one from BP Automotive, and it should be arriving soon.
I also had to change knock sensors as the Hooker header are to close to the block and the LS1 knock sensors and plug are essentially touching the header. BP Automotive suggested to switch to LS2/3 knock sensors and do a tune adjustment on the PCM.
I also had to change knock sensors as the Hooker header are to close to the block and the LS1 knock sensors and plug are essentially touching the header. BP Automotive suggested to switch to LS2/3 knock sensors and do a tune adjustment on the PCM.
03-24-2015, 11:16 PM
#146
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Just got to putting my tanks inc fuel tank together, found that my existing tank had the long tab'ed cap on it and it doesnt work with the tanks inc filler neck. unless i misread your post earlier you had to switch from a shallow tab to a long tab on your right?
Bp does great work, i bought one of his kits for making a fbody harness stand alone without cutting off all of the "c" connectors like most people do. He made a harness that plugged right into the connectors and included everything to the fuse block and coming out of the block labeled with where to hook it up. Top notch work and had quick build time.
Bp does great work, i bought one of his kits for making a fbody harness stand alone without cutting off all of the "c" connectors like most people do. He made a harness that plugged right into the connectors and included everything to the fuse block and coming out of the block labeled with where to hook it up. Top notch work and had quick build time.
03-25-2015, 09:55 AM
#147
Just got to putting my tanks inc fuel tank together, found that my existing tank had the long tab'ed cap on it and it doesnt work with the tanks inc filler neck. unless i misread your post earlier you had to switch from a shallow tab to a long tab on your right?
Bp does great work, i bought one of his kits for making a fbody harness stand alone without cutting off all of the "c" connectors like most people do. He made a harness that plugged right into the connectors and included everything to the fuse block and coming out of the block labeled with where to hook it up. Top notch work and had quick build time.
Bp does great work, i bought one of his kits for making a fbody harness stand alone without cutting off all of the "c" connectors like most people do. He made a harness that plugged right into the connectors and included everything to the fuse block and coming out of the block labeled with where to hook it up. Top notch work and had quick build time.
As for BP I know he does a great job, harness should be arriving soon.
03-26-2015, 10:33 PM
#149
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here is my fill neck. Mine looks alot shallower than yours atleast comparing the pics on my phone. Im interested in that shallow cap if you still wanna sell, might be more in shipping than just buying locally though.
Your absolutely correct about how installing the pump is a pita. Real tight going in and gotta play the angle game to get it to go. Waiting on my sending unit to show up because i assumed it used a factory style sender and i would just reuse mone from the old tank, nope.
05-25-2015, 06:11 AM
#150
An update is overdue. I have installed the Denny's Driveshaft, which I took my time in measuring. It took about 4 days until I called with the measurements and placed the order. First day took 5 measurements from the sheet they require you to fill. Then I did the same the next day and the following. Once I saw the measurements were the same, I was safe to place the order. On the phone with them, the rear end u-joint I had was a 1310 which was not going to be enough for my HP so they recommended for a 1350, which they took care of the measurements in house.
Before taking the nut out of the pinion, I marked it to make sure when installing it back it would keep the lash correct with the pinion gears.
Swap the old 1310 with the new 1350,
Put the trans in neutral as it will allow to turn the drive shaft and align it. Bolt the straps down, and done.
Before taking the nut out of the pinion, I marked it to make sure when installing it back it would keep the lash correct with the pinion gears.
Swap the old 1310 with the new 1350,
Put the trans in neutral as it will allow to turn the drive shaft and align it. Bolt the straps down, and done.
05-25-2015, 07:19 AM
#151
I regret not taking pictures of the LS1 knock sensor and the Hooker headers touching each other, but at that moment frustration, uncertainty, sadness took over. But that there for me was a kick in the *****. There is no room between the LS1 knock sensor plug and the header. The amount of a dimple needed on the header was to much. There are only two possibilities for the knock sensors, LS1 style of LS2/3 style that go on the side of the block. I understand that due to my engine configuration sometimes things do not fit as it should. But I cannot be the only one doing a swap with LS1 knock sensors on the side of the block. Then if you want to take the driver side header out, forget it, you will HAVE to lift the engine out. On their instructions they mention to lift the engine from the drivers side, but that does not work at all. There is not enough clearance, period.
Either way I ended up buying some M10 bolts, used a friends lathe and turn them into an M10-M8 studs. Of course while on my hunt for an AC fitting (more on that later) I found a place that sells them, here
I also ran into a problem with the Hooker 4L65e transmission cross member. There was no window for the shifter cable to go through in order to have a smooth bend towards the gear bracket in the front.
I had to use the end of the cable that threads to the gear selection bracket to see where I had to drill a large enough hole for the cable to pass through. Sometimes I wish I had a plasma cutter, would have done this without removing the crossmember. After drilling, the cable had a much smoother path. Hooker was notified about this, I assume they fixed it. Taking these little thing out, this Hooker LS Swap kit fits very well and I do recommend it for the ones thinking about it.
Now lets change pace to body parts for the car. I had ordered some inner fender wells last year and did not have to use them until about a month ago. I ran into a problem where they would not align at all with the radiator support at all and one of the holes on the passenger side was not even there. I take full responsibility here in not checking to make sure the parts fit correctly when I got them. I also learned not to order body parts until you are ready to install them, so if you run into a fitment issue you have enough time to return for an exchange or refund. I called the vendor where I had bought these inner fender wells, and their policy is 30-days, even though they did not fit at all and I sent them pictures showing the differences. One example is the one below, comparing the holes locations (the one missing) between the old and the new.
The first set I bought were had Goodmark stickers on them, the second set were AMD and had no problems at all with the bolt holes alignment except for one, which needed a little massaging to fit correctly. It is hard to find body parts that fit correctly, but it is the nature of this hobby.
Either way I ended up buying some M10 bolts, used a friends lathe and turn them into an M10-M8 studs. Of course while on my hunt for an AC fitting (more on that later) I found a place that sells them, here
I also ran into a problem with the Hooker 4L65e transmission cross member. There was no window for the shifter cable to go through in order to have a smooth bend towards the gear bracket in the front.
I had to use the end of the cable that threads to the gear selection bracket to see where I had to drill a large enough hole for the cable to pass through. Sometimes I wish I had a plasma cutter, would have done this without removing the crossmember. After drilling, the cable had a much smoother path. Hooker was notified about this, I assume they fixed it. Taking these little thing out, this Hooker LS Swap kit fits very well and I do recommend it for the ones thinking about it.
Now lets change pace to body parts for the car. I had ordered some inner fender wells last year and did not have to use them until about a month ago. I ran into a problem where they would not align at all with the radiator support at all and one of the holes on the passenger side was not even there. I take full responsibility here in not checking to make sure the parts fit correctly when I got them. I also learned not to order body parts until you are ready to install them, so if you run into a fitment issue you have enough time to return for an exchange or refund. I called the vendor where I had bought these inner fender wells, and their policy is 30-days, even though they did not fit at all and I sent them pictures showing the differences. One example is the one below, comparing the holes locations (the one missing) between the old and the new.
The first set I bought were had Goodmark stickers on them, the second set were AMD and had no problems at all with the bolt holes alignment except for one, which needed a little massaging to fit correctly. It is hard to find body parts that fit correctly, but it is the nature of this hobby.
05-25-2015, 07:39 AM
#152
Lets talk about AC. I finished mounting the AC condenser and trans cooler. I ended up by mounting the condenser 1" to the left and using the mounting holes on the top to align with the bolts that hold the hood latch. I tried making my own aluminum bracket for the top, but I had about 3/4" of space between the condenser top mounting bracket and the radiator support. Either way it is done and it fits very well.
The new wire harness I got from BP Automotive, uses the ECM for the pressure switch in order to replace the trinary switch that Vintage Air requires for electric fans. I have been in the hunt for the M10x1.25 fitting for the AC refrigerant pressure switch, so I went to a junk yard cut some lines and took it home in order to take that fitting and hope to use it.
After managing to save two fittings, I thought I was good to go. With a friend we took the challenge to braze them to the EZ clip fittings but it did not go very well. The fitting was so thin after removing it from the original line that it melted. Of course while talking to Bill at BP Automotive, he said he finally got the driers with the fittings required so I placed the order of that, got one in and and done.
I wanted to mount the drier on the radiator support, but due to the height and position/angle that the pressure switch sits, I had to mount it on the original location stated by VA. Which at the same time is where the OEM drier location used to be.
I ended up going with EZ clip hoses as it was cheaper than buying the Master Cool AC crimping tool. The hoses are half the size and more flexible.
Also here is the simple wiring needed if you use a refrigerant pressure switch when using BP Automotives wiring harness.
The new wire harness I got from BP Automotive, uses the ECM for the pressure switch in order to replace the trinary switch that Vintage Air requires for electric fans. I have been in the hunt for the M10x1.25 fitting for the AC refrigerant pressure switch, so I went to a junk yard cut some lines and took it home in order to take that fitting and hope to use it.
After managing to save two fittings, I thought I was good to go. With a friend we took the challenge to braze them to the EZ clip fittings but it did not go very well. The fitting was so thin after removing it from the original line that it melted. Of course while talking to Bill at BP Automotive, he said he finally got the driers with the fittings required so I placed the order of that, got one in and and done.
I wanted to mount the drier on the radiator support, but due to the height and position/angle that the pressure switch sits, I had to mount it on the original location stated by VA. Which at the same time is where the OEM drier location used to be.
I ended up going with EZ clip hoses as it was cheaper than buying the Master Cool AC crimping tool. The hoses are half the size and more flexible.
Also here is the simple wiring needed if you use a refrigerant pressure switch when using BP Automotives wiring harness.
05-25-2015, 07:43 AM
#153
Glad to hear AMD panels fit with minor tweaking. I always heard they were the "go to" for non OEM replacement panels. Where these actually AMD tooling panels or ones they deem close enough to sell under there name?
05-25-2015, 07:46 AM
#154
How do you like the self crimp VA couplers? Did the required hose cut easily?
thanks,
Jim
thanks,
Jim
05-25-2015, 06:21 PM
#155
came to be around $100 after everything.
05-25-2015, 07:01 PM
#156
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have you fired the engine as of yet?
I have to be honest I found this thread by searching fineline restoration.
I got the same setup as you from Hans.
Found out he does not build the motors or the harnesses.
The harness I had had to be rewired ( no biggie) fired the motor and sitting at an idle for 10 minutes it started running rough and then BAM. broken rod. I think Sand and Street performance knew they were using used parts when they built these.
Best of luck to you...looks great
I have to be honest I found this thread by searching fineline restoration.
I got the same setup as you from Hans.
Found out he does not build the motors or the harnesses.
The harness I had had to be rewired ( no biggie) fired the motor and sitting at an idle for 10 minutes it started running rough and then BAM. broken rod. I think Sand and Street performance knew they were using used parts when they built these.
Best of luck to you...looks great
05-25-2015, 08:04 PM
#157
have you fired the engine as of yet?
I have to be honest I found this thread by searching fineline restoration.
I got the same setup as you from Hans.
Found out he does not build the motors or the harnesses.
The harness I had had to be rewired ( no biggie) fired the motor and sitting at an idle for 10 minutes it started running rough and then BAM. broken rod. I think Sand and Street performance knew they were using used parts when they built these.
Best of luck to you...looks great
I have to be honest I found this thread by searching fineline restoration.
I got the same setup as you from Hans.
Found out he does not build the motors or the harnesses.
The harness I had had to be rewired ( no biggie) fired the motor and sitting at an idle for 10 minutes it started running rough and then BAM. broken rod. I think Sand and Street performance knew they were using used parts when they built these.
Best of luck to you...looks great
Hopefully i don't have a problem, if do i will torch the car. I know Hans is having PSI build the harnesses for him, and he is building the engines himself as well.
What did you do for the engine, did you manage to use the 'warranty' it came with?
06-09-2015, 11:01 AM
#158
I had never seen those EZ Clip hoses. Where did you purchase the fittings and hoses? Did you find them easy to assemble? What tool(s) did you need to assemble them? It looks like the pliers are very similar to what's used for PEX home water systems.
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 06-09-2015 at 11:07 AM.
06-10-2015, 09:26 AM
#159
I'm not sure if you read my posts on this before (link, but I had exactly the same experience with Vinage Air's Nova SureDon'tFit condenser. I wish I had just bought a generic condenser from someone else because it was a total waste of money. You did a nice job mounting yours in a better location. Bravo!
I had never seen those EZ Clip hoses. Where did you purchase the fittings and hoses? Did you find them easy to assemble? What tool(s) did you need to assemble them? It looks like the pliers are very similar to what's used for PEX home water systems.
I had never seen those EZ Clip hoses. Where did you purchase the fittings and hoses? Did you find them easy to assemble? What tool(s) did you need to assemble them? It looks like the pliers are very similar to what's used for PEX home water systems.
The EZ fittings is the best thing ever invented. Part of the fittings I bought from this guy on ebay
http://stores.ebay.com/askacss2012/
I also bought some stuff from www.buspartsexperts.com. I recommend for people thinking about buying g a Vintage Air system to just buy the evaporator unit, then source the rest as it will end up being cheaper and probably better parts as well.
I managed to finish mounting the evaporator unit, running the lines and all. I found that using a Sanden SD7 with the ports on the side and using the 90* fittings with service ports it hits the inner fender well.
So I bought the splices with service ports from www.buspartsexperts.com and finished the lines. Not the prettiest of all but it was the only option I had.
I also started doing the wiring inside. As I am using the GM pressure switch so there is no need for the trinary switch. The AC signal that the VA sends is positive (light blue wire) which the PCM looks for a positive signal as well so that is a much easier wiring as well.
Just realized I did not apply any rust encapsulator in the back...
06-16-2015, 08:18 PM
#160
It has been crunch time for the past week, trying to get everything done in order to see if I manage to drive the car down to the GM Nats at Carlisle PA.
Finished all the AC fitting, hoses and wiring. I also have most of the under dash wiring done. Have been working in making a plate for the control ***** for the VA system.
Today it was too humid to paint, so hopefully tomorrow I can finish cutting the template for the controller, paint, install and done.
At the same time, I had bought a instrument cluster (bezel) with driver AC, turn out they do not make the driver side AC bezel for the vent, so unless you find a used piece to hold the AC vent on the dash you are SOL. So i swapped it back to a non-AC dash and I will use the VA AC vent under the dash and be done.
Under the dash wiring is done basically, the wires on the left hanging are light switch, wipers and OBDII wires, which will be put away once the dash is installed. You can see the Dakota Digital computer with all appropriate wires terminated. I also did my brake switch with the TCC switch as well. Had to tie into one of the ignition cables on the harness, but it was easy to do. The American Auto Wire harness is very nice, well worth it.
I went with the Dakota Digital VHX with black alloy and white lettering, i think it looks great.
A few months back i mentioned the gap I had between the VHX tabs and the bezel. I bought some nylon spacers, and cut myself 8 spacers at different lengths.
I wish I had a band saw, did this by hand, broke a sweat.
The other thing I need to do is cut the driver side fender where the horn sits in order to allow the CAI fit properly. I wish I could rotate the CAI to the passenger side, but the top fan of the radiator hits the pipe. I then thought about cutting the 90° bend coming out of the throttle body, but that will make the MAF touch the AC belt.
So it is getting very close. I just purchased the front seats, Procar Rally Series 1000 Seats 80-1000-51L which should be delivered on Thursday. So I need to work hard to have the inside ready for the carpet to be installed on friday. I really do not have much left,
But not far really, I hope I can get it going before the end of next week and drive to PA on Friday 26. *fingers crossed*
Finished all the AC fitting, hoses and wiring. I also have most of the under dash wiring done. Have been working in making a plate for the control ***** for the VA system.
Today it was too humid to paint, so hopefully tomorrow I can finish cutting the template for the controller, paint, install and done.
At the same time, I had bought a instrument cluster (bezel) with driver AC, turn out they do not make the driver side AC bezel for the vent, so unless you find a used piece to hold the AC vent on the dash you are SOL. So i swapped it back to a non-AC dash and I will use the VA AC vent under the dash and be done.
Under the dash wiring is done basically, the wires on the left hanging are light switch, wipers and OBDII wires, which will be put away once the dash is installed. You can see the Dakota Digital computer with all appropriate wires terminated. I also did my brake switch with the TCC switch as well. Had to tie into one of the ignition cables on the harness, but it was easy to do. The American Auto Wire harness is very nice, well worth it.
I went with the Dakota Digital VHX with black alloy and white lettering, i think it looks great.
A few months back i mentioned the gap I had between the VHX tabs and the bezel. I bought some nylon spacers, and cut myself 8 spacers at different lengths.
I wish I had a band saw, did this by hand, broke a sweat.
The other thing I need to do is cut the driver side fender where the horn sits in order to allow the CAI fit properly. I wish I could rotate the CAI to the passenger side, but the top fan of the radiator hits the pipe. I then thought about cutting the 90° bend coming out of the throttle body, but that will make the MAF touch the AC belt.
So it is getting very close. I just purchased the front seats, Procar Rally Series 1000 Seats 80-1000-51L which should be delivered on Thursday. So I need to work hard to have the inside ready for the carpet to be installed on friday. I really do not have much left,
- Driver side fender CAI cut out, mount and align
- AC control **** cutout plate and paint
- Install instrument cluster bezel dash
- Install carpet, seat brackets, shifter console, seats
- Finish battery wiring
- Do all fluids, oil, brake bleeding, trans, radiator
- The stuff that comes up when doing the above
But not far really, I hope I can get it going before the end of next week and drive to PA on Friday 26. *fingers crossed*