xsboost90

ive got it to about 3.5 degrees, i'll prob just cut my mount back out one last time and make it slightly taller again. I did manage to make my own trans mount last night. After looking at what was out there for mounting a t56 in an early ford i thought- "i could make that!". I used my stock trans mount, and a new ford trans mount that i wasnt using. Redrilled the holes in the mount to bolt to the t56. Then bolted the stock trans mount on. Figured out the distance from each side over to the frame rails and welded in some heavy L braces on each side to just short of the frame. Then i made some C shaped braces for the frame rails, welded the to the rails and drilled through the c on each side into the L braces. After welding nuts on the inside of the L brace, i boxed in between the L braces with some 1/4" plate all the way into the stock trans brace for overkill. Its not done completely but its holding the trans up currently. Very strong! Yes the rear of the trans sits weird supposedly thats how they are...i may raise the passenger side exhaust hump up to clear a 3" pipe since my factory brace is angled slightly due to the trans but otherwise im happy. I'll do some more bracing on the frame rail itself once the car is back on a rotisserie and i can flip it on its side and work standing up. This under the car stuff sucks.

ALso- i posted this in its own thread but the bracket i designed for my 05-07 mustang power steering pump is being made as we speak, and if there is enough interest i can have a run of them made. About $150 each and mounts the mustang pump on the passenger side down where you a/c pump would be on truck motors only at this time. Would need the resevoir, a stock gm tensioner/pulley, hoses to your ford rack, and a belt. This pump is small and has a pretty small pulley so it leaves you plenty of room in most cases for frame clearance and keeps you from having a large gm pump on the drivers side. Also does not need a regulator to be run with the fox mustang rack. PM me or email me if interested xsboost90@yahoo.com .

xsboost90

Ok so after staring at it for awhile i came up with a solution. Took the mount back down, cut the right side in a wedge on the factory angled part of the mount. Jacked the trans up till i had 2 degrees drivetrain angle- just cut the old trans brace out all together- and then put the brace in and welded it in postion. Then i finish welded everything and cleaned it up some. After some improvements on my bracket fitment etc, i have alittle more clearance on the right side for exhaust and the trans sits up that much higher. Then i went to work on welding in my open floor. Its not that much higher than stock but the arc is different so i made a piece that fit around the shifter-stock hole was too small- and welded that in first. Then the center, then the top by the firewall. Once the car is on the rotisserie i can trim up and weld up underneath and once its all bedlinered on the bottom you shouldnt be able to see any of this. Im pretty sure my trans mount is strong enough for whatever at this point.

xsboost90

making the most of my time in the garage this week, i decided to work on my strut bars. The stock triangulated braces were sheet metal so they didnt do much. They sell a traditional V shaped reinforcement but i dont like those so out comes the welder and the pipe. Made this part, im going to add a strut to strut bar as well but i need to get the pipe to somewhere with a pipe bender so i can clear my intake. I bolted the flat 1/4" plate to the strut towers-bent to contour with them- and then welded the nuts into the struts. Once the bolts are at it lifts right out very easily.

xsboost90

After trying to find a decent pipe bender and being unsuccessful i decided to try a different method to make my strut brace. Some 3/4" ID tube, a big torch and a vice and got the angles i needed. Welded that on and cleaned everything up with a flapper wheel. Then i finished welding up the bottom of my floor and trans brace brackets and coated everything with POR15 to seal it up. Next week i'll seam seal everything and it'll be ready for primer and eventually some bed liner spray.

Ive been looking into converting my car to fuel injection for the new motor and ended up ordering a retrofit 255gph pump assy from TanksInc.com along with their filter/regulator with fittings to an6 so i can run one line up to the factory fuel rail i also ordered off evilbay. I did also order their remote mount tank vent that mounts up high in the trunk and closes should your car roll over. Should just need a bunch of fuel line and an6 fittings and the adapter to the fuel rail to an6. Oh and some injectors...and...

xsboost90

just ordered these- 17x10 rears and 17x9 fronts- have to shorten the rear 1" on each side...worth it!

http://www.americanmuscle.com/silver-sc-17x10.html

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Those look pretty nice. They remind me of older Simmons wheels.

Andrew

xsboost90

i figured for the price if i make those fit my options are open to anything that you can put on a 94-04 mustang. Could definitly go wider out rear but going too wide will mess with my already inherent oversteer that the car will prob. have. Watts link and some suspension tuning should help that though.

xsboost90

Got the new wheels today as well as my fuel rail and other small bits. Also picked up my power steering bracket up from the metal shop and welded it all together. Looks great, very strong and the pump fits perfectly. Had to pick up a new idler pulley for my tensioner-3" wheel $16 at autozone- and i still need a belt-still working on the size.

5.3Continental

looks great man!!
subscribed!

also just a tip... i did what you did with saying i can build this or make that and sell what i make and i got my entire account froze for good... so just an FYI they are strict about that stuff...

xsboost90

Hmmm- good to know. Dont think anyone wants these anyway, but that means i'll have a one off custom! Once i have my suspension in again i can test fit the new rims- still in the process of cleaning up and shortening the rear end.

xsboost90

after fitting up the new wheels on my rear axel and discussing the work it takes to shorten the rear, i decided to stretch my quarter panels. This will only be mild-1" and eventually i can go to a larger rear tire if i need. I have finished welding up the drivers side quarter - this whole deal took about an hour. Measurement from the mini tub to the lip was 13" now its 14", so the new wheels should fit very nicely, and i could still go in (10" now) a couple inches so a 10.5 would easily fit in there. Still have some body work, grinding and a low spot above the wheel opening to deal with but came out pretty damn well! Next to make an inner wheel well. Still have to replace the quarter on the passenger side before i stretch it. My goal though is to keep the tire sizes pretty close front to rear to eliminate oversteer in this already front heavy car.

xsboost90

quick peek at the new wheels...

SA_swaps

I put a ls1 in my 67 and love it. Lot more horse power and better fuel mileage.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Did you add material there or just cut, bend it out, and then tack it back together?

xsboost90

i measured the wheel well depth. Then i cut the radius of the opening 1.5" in or right at the base of the flare. Then i cut the slits and a portion of the inner wheel well for clearance. i pulled the opening out 1" and welded a temporary metal bar from the inner wheel well to the opening to hold it in place. Then i used 3-4" pieces of metal by 2" wide, clamped them to the metal on the quarter and tac welded them one or two at a time and moved each clamp. Im sure its possible to make this all in one piece or better but this is how i can do it. Once its all welded, i smooth it out with a flapper wheel grinder and i'll treat both sides with POR15 to seal it up and prevent rust. Then it'll get seam sealed and or fiberglassed to fill in low spots, then body work. Inner wheel well should be fun. Wonder how much room i need to make above the flare up in there to keep the tire from dragging? I'll make as much room as possible but its still kinda close even with the flare.

I ended up redoing this quarter after the first pic as i didnt measure until after i cut the metal and it must have sprung inward slightly. Only ended up with 1/2" flare! I measured the passenger side and then redid everything on the drivers side. Now i have 15" from the inner well to the outer of the lip.

xsboost90

had a couple hours to kill the other day after work so i went out to the garage and cut the quarter panel off the passenger side of the car. This one was pretty beat up, had been clipped into and those parts rusted out. I had a full quarter to use pieces off of and decided that i would just put the full quarter on and save some time. I cut the perimeter off the new quarter and clamped it into place, then traced around the outer edge. Then i left 3/4" around that and cut the old quarter off, cleaned the edges and weld thru primered everything. Once it was clamped into position, i tac welded all the way around the edges. Not done yet but already looks better than the old stuff. Now i have to flare this side to match the drivers side and finish up the inner wheel wells etc.

also found this cool engine harness fuse/relay panel online and bought it to help when i get that far....http://www.ebay.com/itm/171246019713...84.m1423.l2649

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

I love this build. Good job.

xsboost90

Thanks! Looking at my wheel well flare i started thinking that i may not have enough room if the car squats to clear the tires into the quarters. After looking awhile i got the hammer out and reversed the flares. Should give me some more room and if it doesnt clear now i'll get new wheels damnit. Lets face it if i cant fit a 10" rim in there whats the point of all this work ive been doing.

EastTnZ28

iTrader: (20)

Thats alot of work. Are you sure it wouldnt have been easier to narrow the rearend? Lol. But your committed now. Time for the BFH.

MS Racing Components

Cool build!

Mike