Storminnorm

Looking for some help, I'm buying the new 302-2 holley oil pan and would like to order my engine mounts and headers at the same time. Does anyone know what the best fitting ones are for this conversion? I would like to maintain the stock transmission location if possible. I'm using a Muncie 4 speed with it prefer to not modify the driveshaft/ crossmember. If that's possible?
Thanks!

Blowerman

The dirty dingo mounts work pretty good. A lot of adjustment back and forth. Only problem is you'll end up with solid engine mounts.
You might need to change the mount pedestals to Chevy though.
Can't tell you about the headers.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

This maybe? https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...arts-info.html

Storminnorm

What about the hooker mounts? Any experience with them? Thanks.

Inssan

I have hooker mounts and hooker LT headers on my LS1 & 68 Camaro. No complaints after several years of use.

toxic99

I used car shop 1 inch set back plates and dynatechs headers. Transmission is in stock location. Everything fits fine.

Storminnorm

Just ordered my 303-2 holley pan and hooker mounting plates that put the engine in stock location, I wanted to order my headers but was hoping for shortys, I was told long tube are all that's available for the application is that correct? I can't wait!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Todd will ping in and speak for what Holley has..

But as far as Shorty.. all most any shorty or even a mid header should be able to work.. if no listing from a company on your applicaiton, a 4th gen F-Body shorty should work. Many have used Long Tube Header from a F-Body on a early A-Body wtih minor modification to the collector area.

BC

Storminnorm

Ok thanks, the mounts are 12611hkr if anyone has used them, I don't want to go crazy expensive on the headers from what I've read the ones to use are long tube and their almost $700

91FormulaKiller

iTrader: (28)

Figured I'd chime in too since I'm going LS but now turbo, if i was still going N/A with headers i would have used the 98-02 F-body pan, frame notched with SBC frame mounts to Energy's 3.1114 kit (i believe thats the number) and the non-coated 1st gen swap LT headers by Nook on ebay for $549. Total cost on all 3 parts new was around $655 if parts are bought @ Rockauto for frame mounts $36/pair, energy engine mounts $70 on ebay and the headers on ebay for $549 (i believe free shipping) no interference with steering box if these are used (im going with all 3rd gen steering, box, shaft and column)

Good luck

toxic99

My dynatechs were $420...1 7/8 primaries 3 inch collector with 4 bolt flange. Even has the o2 bungs already.

hifi875

iTrader: (2)

go with the whole holley/hooker setup to keep things simple and to make sure they work. I used the brp mounts etc when I did my conversion years ago. If you get the entire scenario from one vendor you don't have to worry about headaches.

Storminnorm

Ok cool, thanks guys. After I get these parts in ill be order my clutch stuff, I'm using the stock 4 speed Muncie, I've got a bell housing from a truck that I'm told will work but I'm sceptical about firewall and hump clearance, if it works I could use a 12" clutch? Anyone try this?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

"Truck" bellhousings have a larger cutout for the bearing retainer.
Why would you use that?

Storminnorm

It's all I have at the moment, I don't really want to put the money out for after market, all I have for the trans this far is the crusty shifter linkages it came with. Any recommendations? Late model t5 bell housing?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Every once in a while I see adapter rings to bolt an M20 to a truck bell housing on ebay. I'm just not sure what other parts combinations will be needed.
If you go with a BBC 621 bell the link below has all the proven parts that will work with it. You can find new 621s on ebay for underr $200 (probably Chinese). Used will be less but check for cracks.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html

StainlessWorks

We use Dingo mounts....




BMR has a nice adjustable crossmember too!

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...d=28&catid=313

Storminnorm

Ok thanks, I appreciate the help.

Toddoky

Thanks for the lead-in bczee. The new Hooker mounting components and Holley oil pan were specifically designed to improve the finished build quality of an LS swapped 1st-gen Camaro or 3rd-gen Nova and resolve some of the compromises that come with using universal type components to achieve the swap.

As a short history lesson, let's recall that these swaps were originally performed by individuals using self-fabricated parts (i.e. swap plates)or modified aftermarket parts originally designed for use with some other engine/transmission (i.e. TH350 or TH400 crossmembers). Once the movement gained some traction, manufacturers (including Hooker and Holley) recognized sales opportunities and started offering manufactured versions of these common parts.

As this provided relatively affordable parts to the end-user to allow an LS engine to be bolted in to particular chassis and a set of headers to be bolted up to it, compromises to the fitment, geometry and functionality of the car were just accepted as part of the deal.

Although Hooker/Holley already had components on the market to allow the swap of an LS into a 1st-gen F-body, a realization was made that the only way to improve the quality of LS swaps was through the development of application-specific parts that address the shortcomings of performing the swap with universal mounting components. For those who have not performed this particular swap with universal mounts and/or crossmembers before here are a few to mention...

1.)Interference with the stock small block heater core or A/C evaporator
housing
2.)Possible interference of the transmission case servo bore with the trans
tunnel sheet metal when using a 4L60-4L75 auto transmission
3.)Insufficient room to install an automatic trans dipstick tube
4.)Won't allow bolt-in use of a rigid cast aluminum oil pan with good ground
clearance unless you notch a 4th-gen F-body pan (and loose oil capacity
in the process), or jam the engine up tight against the firewall to be
able to use the 4th-gen pan unmodified. Fixing this issue was the impetus behind the design of the new 302-2 Holley oil pan
(same fitment clearance as a notched 4th-gen pan without the lost oil capacity penalty)
5.) Poor non-optimized U-joint working angles resulting from using swap
plates and transmission crossmember combinations that were not
designed in conjunction with one another. Ask the manufacturer
of the plates or crossmember you want to use what the inclination angle
of your engine will be after installing their component(s) and they will give you a rather ambiguous
answer or none at all. I would give the same answer regarding the existing universal-design Hooker swap plates the OP is
referring to also, but use of the new Hooker clamshell mounts and trans crossmembers with bring you in at 3 degrees.
6.) Poor header steering box, spark plug or ground clearance. Also,
collectors that angle towards the ground after installation...this is
associated with the mount/crossmember scenario mentioned above as all
headers to date besides the new Hooker headers for this application
were designed without a discrete optimized engine inclination angle
being achieved first through the use of a set of engine mounts and a
transmission crossmember that were designed together in a single
engineering effort
7.) Non-maximized exhaust system ground clearance due to the use of
universal aftermarket transmission crossmembers that provide
adjustability at the expense of ultimate exhaust system routing
clearance. Any crossmember that does not install up into the pockets in
the bottom of the floor of a 1st-gen F-body is leaving available ground
clearance that could be had on the table. Any crossmember that does not
install up into the formed pockets in the floor is cheating you on ground
clearance. So, if it's a fixed design that is one-piece construction or a
multi-piece that slides back and forth along brackets attached to the
subframe rails, it falls into this category. It's interesting to note that the
stock TH350 crossmember provides higher exhaust routing clearance
than most aftermarket crossmembers. The 1st-gen specific Hooker crossmembers will net you the highest ground clearance
available, period.
8.) Lasty, non-optimized engine inclination angles and/or tight transmission
to tunnel clearances being achieved from the discrete fixed stack-up
height obtained from using the frame stand/swap plate installation
method (compounded by using slider plates that have double the plate
thickness of non-slider plates). It made more sense to us during the
development of the new hooker engine mounts and trans crossmembers
to retrofit these cars to use the 72-later clamshell mounts as they were
a GM design improvement and also allowed lowering of the engine to
improve the installed geometry of the finished package. All the new
Hooker headers (mid-length and long-tubes) for this application were of
course designed to work specifically with these mounting components.

In direct response to the OP...the Hooker swap plates you have referenced are not the new design Hooker mounts and will pose the same issues to you mentioned above as universal swap plates from other manufacturers. If using your Muncie trans and being able to reuse the stock driveshaft is your primary concern then you will have to live with some or all of the compromises listed above. Be sure that you investigate whether the headers you intend to use will accommodate the stock Z-bar clutch set-up if that's what you intend to use.

Storminnorm

Ok so what is the part # of the clam shell mounts? And whatever else I will need to make everything work. I still have 2 days to change my order as the pan was on back order at summit. I'm still getting the pan though. I don't want to have to notch the engine crossmember. Please and thank you. This is my first ls swap and would like to try and keep it simple. I prefer to stick with holley as most seem to have a good things to say.