dig

So i'm new to the LS platform and will be performing an LM7 swap in my fox body notch. I will be taking many pictures throughout this build/swap and updating as I go along so everyone can see the progress and ask questions about any problems I ran into.

My first step is locating a good solid core/short block, I have been scouring Ebay and all the forums looking for a local deal but have been un successful, might have to just buy on Ebay cheap and eat the shipping.

LS1Tech is full of gobbs and gobbs of info on swapping these things so this will be my primary source of information on swapping, I look forward to updating everyone on my progress as I source the new heart for my fox.



1. LM7 Long Block/ Complete w/o harness/computer. $400.00
2. Machine Shop. $1500
3. ARP Rod Bolts. $89.00
4. GM F Body Pan. $169.00
5. SLP Double Roller Chain LS2/ SLP Ported Oil Pump. $335.00
6. LS1 Intake Valves 2.02". $55.00
7. Piston Rings. $50.00
8. Cam Shaft Bearings. $23.00
9. Comp Cam/BTR Dual Springs/Titanium locks&Retainers. $560.00
10. ARP Head Bolts. $128.00
11. Comp Truunion Kit $99.00
12. Trickflow Push Rods $99.00
13. LS7 Lifters. $100.00
14. Drain Plug. $10.00
15. Felpro Oil Pan gasket. $44.00
16.F Body Pick up Tube. $39.00
17. Team Z K Member/ Coil Overs
18. Flaming River Manual Rack
19. Flaming River Steering Shaft
20. LS6 Intake Manifold
21. Potz Speed Ported Throttle Body
22. On3 76mm Turbo .96A/R

dig

So after much deliberation I wound up purchasing an LM7 5.3 Iron Block out of a 2001 Chevy Tahoe 1500, this block was much cheaper at 400 Shipped, complete long block minus the harness and ECM.

I will be purchasing my first engine stand next week before it arrives, any recommendations on what size stand I should use and what is the cheapest best one I could get my hands on? Thank you, will update once I get the stand/engine.

toxic99

Harbor freight 3 leg will be more then fine and is pretty cheap.

dig

Thanks you for the toxic that's the one I was looking at actually, price wise.

now onto my next area i'm looking at...K Member.....someone talk me out of getting the AJE.

This will be primarily a weekend/street car but will see some 1/4 mile/highway runs, is it logical for me to get the AJE, and if I do is the 40$ RR package worth the upgrade?

Also can someone point me in the direction of how to take out my current K Member?

geoff17

Can't really talk you out of the AJE as I only have experience with my UPR one I am using. I bought the bolts hardware package with mine and its worth it so you get all new bolts and don't have to worry about breaking any or them being rusty and nasty. As for taking the existing k member out, super easy-like 5-10 min easy, there are literally only 8 bolts to remove from under the car where the k-member is bolted to the frame. Disconnect the steeering shaft and take the whole steering rack with it. Also undo the struts and let them all come out as well. Thats how I did mine, since I replaced all that stuff as well.

Edit: you'll also need to disconnect the brake lines at the calipers.

dig

Thanks Geoff this will be my next project after I yank the engine out. LM7 is en route to my garage as we speak.

So on a side note....I have a G Force Street 5 speed in the car now....I know this has been covered....but...is it worth it to just get pieces needed to run this on my LM7 or just go T56? I would really like to re use the GForce it's a super smooth unit.

FrossB

iTrader: (1)

I just purchased the AJE K member for my LS swap. Its still in the box so i cant personally speak of fitment but the quality looks top notch and their reputation is a positive one.

Where did you find your LM7 at for 400 bucks?

dig

Ebay, out of a 2001 Silverado 1500, it was 500 OBO...made an offer of 400 and he accepted.

FrossB

iTrader: (1)

Nice man!

Ill be following your build!

2002camaroSS

iTrader: (8)

I recommend racecraft for your k member. It allows you to adjust the motor where you want it in the car by up to an inch. And it's very high quality.

dig

I've researched just about all the most used brands for K member swaps and this is what it's looking like from my shoes...

Racecraft: Good Quality,Haven't found a lot of reviews on them but all the ones I did fine were positive, Pricey.

UPR: Good quality, people complain that it moves the wheels, good price.

AJE: People complain about the quality i.e; lots of weld spots, sloppy, good fit for installation, strength? Good price, lots of reviews.

Team Z: Lots of reviews, good customer support, good price, quality unit.

I'm leaning towards the Team Z at this point, does anyone know if these come with poly urethane mounts or solid? Will I be able to run stock A arms or should I just godhead and buy their whole kit with the arms,coils etc

geoff17

To help shed some light here with my experience with the UPR K-member. I love my UPR k member and front suspension and rear suspension stuff from them. The UPR k-member doesn't move your wheels, why this happens is because for some odd reason (even the workers don't know why on this) when you order the k-member kit (mine came with k-member, a-arms, caster camber plates, coilovers) for the lsx swap they give you a mod motor k-member and automatically when you buy that k-member they come with 1 inch longer newer style mustang a-arms, that is what pushes the wheels out. I learned this after the fact of course and much research later finally called and asked why my wheels were so far out. So when you order the kit be sure to ask for fox length a-arms and they will be the same. You also get to choose between solid motor mounts and poly motor mounts or stock rubber ones since with this k-member you are using a stock 4.6 ford motor, motor mounts and then an adapter plate.

dig

*UPDATE*

So my LM7 long block will be here tomorrow afternoon, very excited to see exactly what i'll be working with, this will be my first time dealing with a swap, first then on my agenda will be to take drain it/pull apart as best I can....next will be to find a competent machine shop that will be able to do a general check on the condition of the block/rods/pistons/crank/bore. now my questions...

1. Is there anything I should know about pulling apart this engine in my garage, do I need any special tools for any specific pieces(Harmonic balancer), and what should I be looking for as i'm pulling it apart to get a general impression on the condition?

2. When dealing with a machine shop what do people usually have checked when dropping off a used short block? and what can I expect to pay for this?

My plan for this build is going to be a stock bottom end with ARP hardware, low compression, pro charged build. Looking for a 550-600whp street/track friendly car.

dig

Block arrived today, had a hell of a time getting it up the drive way when the pallet broke underneath it but we made it.....soon realized I would need to rent/buy a hoist in order to get this thing on my Engine Stand, will take care of that tomorrow....besides that the engine looked great. There are a few holes where the headers would hook up that looks like they have some small screws broken off inside them??? I will take a picture tomorrow in the light.

Block in the garage.


New HF 1000/lb stand I picked up today and assembled.



These are the screws that look like their broken off inside the holes? I can't really tell what they are, there was actually a drill bit still in one of the holes halfway, i'm assuming someone was unsuccessfully trying to drill it out?

SSSTANG#1

iTrader: (14)

The exhaust manifold bolts broke off when someone was taking them out and then they attempted to drill the bolts to use an extractor (easy-out). Best thing to do would be, take the heads to a machine shop and let them do it.

dig

*Update*

Very long day/night, went and picked up a used 2 Ton Duralast hoist for 100 dollars, chains from HF, and some 3/8 X 16 X 2.5 Grade 8 bolts to hook up to the stand.

Got home and attempted to lift the engine off the ground with the chains/hoist, what do ya know, the hydraulic pump started leaking right off the bat, we forgot to move it from 1 ton to 2 ton but I still don't think it should have started leaking...wont even move now...going to try and fill it up tomorrow and see if I need to replace the unit or not.

Began breaking the long block down while it was on the ground removed heads/intake to lighten it up and was able to manually get it attached to the stand with 2 bolts, don't ask how we did it.

From my initial inspection everything looked well enough, didn't find anything that looked too bad, bores still had cross hatching from what I saw, heads were clean, pistons were a bit dirty, and didn't find anything crazy in the oil pan. Going to try and get this Hoist fixed so I can load it up into the truck and get it to the machine shop for a cleaning/basic check.

Mungface78

Nice project! I'm looking to to get a fox body in the future and doing a lr4 turbo swap on it. Good luck with your build, I'll be watching.

Jared_Williamson

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing the LM7 into fox body swap myself, going to subscribe to yours. Yours is looking good so far! I've got the engine and harness sorted, car just got in the garage tonight, now time to begin the mating process.

P.S.- We see broken bolts in holes like that sometimes at work, try a left hand drill bit before you take it to a machine shop if you weren't planning on them going for anything else, it works 9 out of 10 times for me. Once the point is fully into the bolt material left behind, slow the drill down and if the bit is sharp it will usually bite and spin the piece of bolt right out. The ones I have are matco but you can get individual ones from MSC or McMaster for a few dollars plus shipping.

Here's a link to mine:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ustang-lx.html

dig

Subscribed, I will be following along with you, I am really not looking forward to doing the wiring for this thing, I want to be able to use all my mustangs gauges/electronics.

Jared_Williamson

iTrader: (1)

I'm about to tackle that myself. I'm going to make an attempt to get the stock gauges to work, but not going to go nuts. If I run into a snag, I will make a mount for my laptop and let my HPTuners software run in real time if that's the only thing holding me up from driving it in a month or two. Kind of ghetto but sometimes you gotta make it happen.