Nissan 300zx Build - LQ9 with S475
08-27-2014, 09:10 AM
#23
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Little Egg Harbor, NJ
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, while I understand this, it's not a common problem that I wanted to deal with. Also, I just wanted to move to a T56 because I know that they can be built to hold really big power. I know the aftermarket support is there, while the aftermarket support isn't there that I know of for the Z32 transmission.
UPDATE:
Ironically, I got a steal of a deal on a 2005 Silverado 2500 2WD 4L80E today... With 90K miles, I got it for $500 with OEM torque converter. It must have been cleaned by the owner, because the casing is in perfect condition... if not, I got an even better deal than I thought.
Just to make sure, I called the local salvage yards and was quoted around $1k for a 2WD 4L80E.
I don't really want to go automatic... but with a deal like that, it kind of made the decision for me. Aside from the fact that I know that the 4L80E can be built to hold some pretty good HP/TQ numbers.
UPDATE:
Ironically, I got a steal of a deal on a 2005 Silverado 2500 2WD 4L80E today... With 90K miles, I got it for $500 with OEM torque converter. It must have been cleaned by the owner, because the casing is in perfect condition... if not, I got an even better deal than I thought.
Just to make sure, I called the local salvage yards and was quoted around $1k for a 2WD 4L80E.
I don't really want to go automatic... but with a deal like that, it kind of made the decision for me. Aside from the fact that I know that the 4L80E can be built to hold some pretty good HP/TQ numbers.
Good deal on that 80 for sure! For a big turbo setup like yours, I think you'd be better off anyway.
And just as an FYI, the Z32 transmission is the same trans that came in the R32 and R33 Skyline GTR, just in 2WD form. All of the aftermarket trans components for a GTR work in it. There are upgraded gearsets, custom ratios, dogbox conversions, billet selector forks, etc. But that that point, you're at the same price as a built T56, so the point is moot anyway.
The company that makes that stuff is PPG, the same company that is making all of the trick gears for the newest GTR.
http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?categoryid=2
In any event, this is going to be an awesome build, looking forward to it...
08-28-2014, 12:25 PM
#24
Teching In
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I had my trans gone through a couple of years ago...
the only problems were a few burrs on the gears, and too tight of tolerances on the main shafts. The syncros were in near perfect shape, nothing bad enough that they couldn't be filed and polished smooth again. He also polished .0015 off the shafts to make it shift easier.
At the time, the transmission had about 140k on it, and I had beat the hell out of it for 4 years prior. My motor started at a stage one, but by the time I parted the VG, it was well over 500hp.
the only problems were a few burrs on the gears, and too tight of tolerances on the main shafts. The syncros were in near perfect shape, nothing bad enough that they couldn't be filed and polished smooth again. He also polished .0015 off the shafts to make it shift easier.
At the time, the transmission had about 140k on it, and I had beat the hell out of it for 4 years prior. My motor started at a stage one, but by the time I parted the VG, it was well over 500hp.
10-01-2014, 09:15 PM
#25
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ugh. So some things to update... I've been having a nightmare with attempting to weld the seams in the engine bay so that I can smooth them out. It's REALLY thin gauge steel, and a pain to work with as a new welder. Needless to say, I've made some mistakes... but I'm learning. I just wish it wasn't on my car. -.-
I just got my BW S475 the other day, and I'm super stoked to get my *** in gear again. The welding issue really hit me hard as I want my bay to be nice and clean looking, along with the new motor and turbo setup... I don't like things looking half assed. With that being said - I think I'm going to grind, blast and primer it, and then let a professional finish it up... which I hate to do since I already have the paint kit and a bad *** set of guns.
I FINALLY got some good blasting media. I tried with Al Ox and it was too fine to do anything at a reasonable rate... as well as way too ******* expensive ($59 for 50 lbs) for me to do it outside of a blasting container. Luckily, I stumbled upon cheap 40 grit media ($7.99 for 50 lbs) and got a chance to try it out today. It performed AMAZINGLY, and I was able to blast my front crossmember, prime it and apply my first coat of black. Huge step for me so I can begin putting my front suspension in, and fit my short block and transmission.
The 6L80E requires that the transmission tunnel either be massaged a lot, or replaced and stretched. Not sure which. I have seen one photo floating around, and the owner replaced the whole piece... I will lose my HVAC blower, but want to see about mounting it on the PS of the car and blocking my heater so I can fit the AC evaporator and blower box. I will not be driving this car in the super cold winter, so I won't need any heat in the cabin.
I have also sold the LQ9 that was going to be used, and in place, purchased a newly assembled OEM spec LQ4 with a new set of 317 heads. I will be going with a LJMS Turbo Spec 2 Camshaft package. I also scored a high rev kit... unsure of the brand at this point, but it'll be interested to see if it was a waste of money or not. A similar, if not the same kit may be seen here.
Currently, I am trying to decide if I want to run the stock 317 head at 71.06cc, and have the 9.5CR, or if I want to have them milled down to around 67cc for 10.00CR. I also thought about going with the 243 head for 10.1CR. I plan to run e85 and Meth, so I have the cooling for higher CR's... but I'm not going to pay an arm and a leg for the .5 bump... if I am going to pay a lot for heads, I'm going aftermarket.
I just got my BW S475 the other day, and I'm super stoked to get my *** in gear again. The welding issue really hit me hard as I want my bay to be nice and clean looking, along with the new motor and turbo setup... I don't like things looking half assed. With that being said - I think I'm going to grind, blast and primer it, and then let a professional finish it up... which I hate to do since I already have the paint kit and a bad *** set of guns.
I FINALLY got some good blasting media. I tried with Al Ox and it was too fine to do anything at a reasonable rate... as well as way too ******* expensive ($59 for 50 lbs) for me to do it outside of a blasting container. Luckily, I stumbled upon cheap 40 grit media ($7.99 for 50 lbs) and got a chance to try it out today. It performed AMAZINGLY, and I was able to blast my front crossmember, prime it and apply my first coat of black. Huge step for me so I can begin putting my front suspension in, and fit my short block and transmission.
The 6L80E requires that the transmission tunnel either be massaged a lot, or replaced and stretched. Not sure which. I have seen one photo floating around, and the owner replaced the whole piece... I will lose my HVAC blower, but want to see about mounting it on the PS of the car and blocking my heater so I can fit the AC evaporator and blower box. I will not be driving this car in the super cold winter, so I won't need any heat in the cabin.
I have also sold the LQ9 that was going to be used, and in place, purchased a newly assembled OEM spec LQ4 with a new set of 317 heads. I will be going with a LJMS Turbo Spec 2 Camshaft package. I also scored a high rev kit... unsure of the brand at this point, but it'll be interested to see if it was a waste of money or not. A similar, if not the same kit may be seen here.
Currently, I am trying to decide if I want to run the stock 317 head at 71.06cc, and have the 9.5CR, or if I want to have them milled down to around 67cc for 10.00CR. I also thought about going with the 243 head for 10.1CR. I plan to run e85 and Meth, so I have the cooling for higher CR's... but I'm not going to pay an arm and a leg for the .5 bump... if I am going to pay a lot for heads, I'm going aftermarket.
10-05-2014, 08:50 PM
#26
Ls1300zx swap ideas. Ugh. So some things to update... I've been having a nightmare with attempting to weld the seams in the engine bay so that I can smooth them out. It's REALLY thin gauge steel, and a pain to work with as a new welder. Needless to say, I've made some mistakes... but I'm learning. I just wish it wasn't on my car. -.-
I just got my BW S475 the other day, and I'm super stoked to get my *** in gear again. The welding issue really hit me hard as I want my bay to be nice and clean looking, along with the new motor and turbo setup... I don't like things looking half assed. With that being said - I think I'm going to grind, blast and primer it, and then let a professional finish it up... which I hate to do since I already have the paint kit and a bad *** set of guns.
I FINALLY got some good blasting media. I tried with Al Ox and it was too fine to do anything at a reasonable rate... as well as way too ******* expensive ($59 for 50 lbs) for me to do it outside of a blasting container. Luckily, I stumbled upon cheap 40 grit media ($7.99 for 50 lbs) and got a chance to try it out today. It performed AMAZINGLY, and I was able to blast my front crossmember, prime it and apply my first coat of black. Huge step for me so I can begin putting my front suspension in, and fit my short block and transmission.
The 6L80E requires that the transmission tunnel either be massaged a lot, or replaced and stretched. Not sure which. I have seen one photo floating around, and the owner replaced the whole piece... I will lose my HVAC blower, but want to see about mounting it on the PS of the car and blocking my heater so I can fit the AC evaporator and blower box. I will not be driving this car in the super cold winter, so I won't need any heat in the cabin.
I have also sold the LQ9 that was going to be used, and in place, purchased a newly assembled OEM spec LQ4 with a new set of 317 heads. I will be going with a LJMS Turbo Spec 2 Camshaft package. I also scored a high rev kit... unsure of the brand at this point, but it'll be interested to see if it was a waste of money or not. A similar, if not the same kit may be seen here.
Currently, I am trying to decide if I want to run the stock 317 head at 71.06cc, and have the 9.5CR, or if I want to have them milled down to around 67cc for 10.00CR. I also thought about going with the 243 head for 10.1CR. I plan to run e85 and Meth, so I have the cooling for higher CR's... but I'm not going to pay an arm and a leg for the .5 bump... if I am going to pay a lot for heads, I'm going aftermarket.
I just got my BW S475 the other day, and I'm super stoked to get my *** in gear again. The welding issue really hit me hard as I want my bay to be nice and clean looking, along with the new motor and turbo setup... I don't like things looking half assed. With that being said - I think I'm going to grind, blast and primer it, and then let a professional finish it up... which I hate to do since I already have the paint kit and a bad *** set of guns.
I FINALLY got some good blasting media. I tried with Al Ox and it was too fine to do anything at a reasonable rate... as well as way too ******* expensive ($59 for 50 lbs) for me to do it outside of a blasting container. Luckily, I stumbled upon cheap 40 grit media ($7.99 for 50 lbs) and got a chance to try it out today. It performed AMAZINGLY, and I was able to blast my front crossmember, prime it and apply my first coat of black. Huge step for me so I can begin putting my front suspension in, and fit my short block and transmission.
The 6L80E requires that the transmission tunnel either be massaged a lot, or replaced and stretched. Not sure which. I have seen one photo floating around, and the owner replaced the whole piece... I will lose my HVAC blower, but want to see about mounting it on the PS of the car and blocking my heater so I can fit the AC evaporator and blower box. I will not be driving this car in the super cold winter, so I won't need any heat in the cabin.
I have also sold the LQ9 that was going to be used, and in place, purchased a newly assembled OEM spec LQ4 with a new set of 317 heads. I will be going with a LJMS Turbo Spec 2 Camshaft package. I also scored a high rev kit... unsure of the brand at this point, but it'll be interested to see if it was a waste of money or not. A similar, if not the same kit may be seen here.
Currently, I am trying to decide if I want to run the stock 317 head at 71.06cc, and have the 9.5CR, or if I want to have them milled down to around 67cc for 10.00CR. I also thought about going with the 243 head for 10.1CR. I plan to run e85 and Meth, so I have the cooling for higher CR's... but I'm not going to pay an arm and a leg for the .5 bump... if I am going to pay a lot for heads, I'm going aftermarket.
10-06-2014, 08:26 AM
#27
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the lq4 with 317s in my setup with a 222/224 112 LSA 26918-16 spring setup. It works great in my car and I run an S472 huge housing 72mm 1.1 ar turbo. I also ran a t56 without losing heat or ac components in the dash. I did however get rid of ac because of needing room for radiator and turbo components in front. Not sure what rpm the 96mm turbo will spool at but im betting it will take awhile.
10-15-2014, 08:13 PM
#28
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the purple stripped from my valve covers, front timing cover and valley cover and all are now a nice satin black... I feel it looks beautiful, less blemishes in the material because I didn't sand it down smooth. Oh well. Good enough for me!
Finally got a valve spring compressor so I could remove the springs in the 317's so I can work on porting them out.
I've essentially given up on the engine bay. I plan to blast and primer it to preserve the metal, but I'm going to let a professional shop finish my welding **** ups... maybe. I'm just getting irritated with messing up and welding such an insignificant piece.
I have ARP rod bolts, but the motor is already assembled and torqued so I'm in a toss up of whether to remove the rods and replace with ARP bolts and have the OEM rods honed, or just to leave it. I don't plan on running super high boost, but I do plan on spinning it a little higher, so I think it may necessitate the use of the rod bolts. I need to remove the pistons to re gap the rings for boost anyways I suppose. While I'm at it, I might as well remove the crankshaft and have the block tanked to remove this awful purple.
So... porting of the 317s and disassembly of a shop assembled LQ4 shortblock to come...
Finally got a valve spring compressor so I could remove the springs in the 317's so I can work on porting them out.
I've essentially given up on the engine bay. I plan to blast and primer it to preserve the metal, but I'm going to let a professional shop finish my welding **** ups... maybe. I'm just getting irritated with messing up and welding such an insignificant piece.
I have ARP rod bolts, but the motor is already assembled and torqued so I'm in a toss up of whether to remove the rods and replace with ARP bolts and have the OEM rods honed, or just to leave it. I don't plan on running super high boost, but I do plan on spinning it a little higher, so I think it may necessitate the use of the rod bolts. I need to remove the pistons to re gap the rings for boost anyways I suppose. While I'm at it, I might as well remove the crankshaft and have the block tanked to remove this awful purple.
So... porting of the 317s and disassembly of a shop assembled LQ4 shortblock to come...
10-16-2014, 05:48 PM
#30
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol. I haven't really DONE anything, so I haven't taken photos. I've been in gathering mode for the longest time. I think I'm going to go out to the garage and work on breaking the block down so I can bring it to the machine shop tomorrow or Monday.
Butttt.... since you asked, here are a few.
LQ4 Assembled Short Block
Borg Warner S475 96mm 1.10 AR Turbocharger
Custom High Rev Kit
I'll take more photos as things actually come together. Right now it's all a mess, and I need to get re-motivated... I just ordered some LOJ Innovations LSx motor mounts produced for swapping LS motors into the 300zx, and those should be here tomorrow.
I'll make sure to start taking more pictures though
Butttt.... since you asked, here are a few.
LQ4 Assembled Short Block
Borg Warner S475 96mm 1.10 AR Turbocharger
Custom High Rev Kit
I'll take more photos as things actually come together. Right now it's all a mess, and I need to get re-motivated... I just ordered some LOJ Innovations LSx motor mounts produced for swapping LS motors into the 300zx, and those should be here tomorrow.
I'll make sure to start taking more pictures though
10-26-2014, 04:25 PM
#31
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, I went ahead and just sprayed the black engine paint over the purple. If it flakes... oh well. I tried. I'll do it right when I break something.
I've got to take the block to the machine shop and have the cam bearings changed. I just noticed that one of them has a ding in it... While it's there, I'm just going to have them re-gap my rings and resize the big end for ARP bolts as well.
Got my LOJ Innovations motor mounts in... they're really sweet looking. Now all I need is my cam kit from LJMS and a pair of wastegates and a blow off valve and all of my purchasing is done for the motor section.
I've got to take the block to the machine shop and have the cam bearings changed. I just noticed that one of them has a ding in it... While it's there, I'm just going to have them re-gap my rings and resize the big end for ARP bolts as well.
Got my LOJ Innovations motor mounts in... they're really sweet looking. Now all I need is my cam kit from LJMS and a pair of wastegates and a blow off valve and all of my purchasing is done for the motor section.
01-20-2015, 04:49 PM
#32
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's been a LONG time since I have posted an update... mainly because I am at a standstill with the weather, cold, and lack of drive to work on the car... if I haven't said previously, the car is currently in a back yard which is proving to be a very poor environment for any sort of work. I have neighbors about 30 yards away from me, and I am at a point where I need to run a generator, welder and a grinder.
I tend to be an *******, but I know that hearing some guy banging around on his vehicle and using air tools would be very irritating to me as a homeowner, so I try to keep my noise to a minimum.
My shop just bought a HUGE CNC Mill, and I was able to procure some of the material used to crate the mill during its trip from Japan. I'm in the process of figuring out something like a 17' or 20' wide by 20' deep shop/garage space that will have 120/240V and a window unit HVAC system to work on my car inside of. Needless to say, I'm stoked to have a shop area, so currently, all of my attention is focused on completing that.
The motor was machined and set up for ARP mains and I have ARP bolts in the rods. The remaining bits such as the Stage II Turbo Cam from John at Lil' John's Motorsports was purchased. I got tired of porting my heads after the first head, so I purchased a set of stock 317's that I'm going to have cleaned to run in the meantime so if for some reason, my car is ready to run before I finish the second one, I don't have to wait around to get it going.
I also got a steal of a deal on an HP Tuners Pro setup along with the school books so I can get some knowledge going on it. I've also purchased a lava blanket for the BW s475, two Tial MVR 44mm wastegates and a Tial 60mm BOV. Basically, I've got all of my go fast and engine parts ready... I just need to get the car ready for the motor and transmission, get the interior in and I'm ready, set, GO!
Excited to get this shop put up... it's going to rocket my progression on the build immensely.... I hope.
I tend to be an *******, but I know that hearing some guy banging around on his vehicle and using air tools would be very irritating to me as a homeowner, so I try to keep my noise to a minimum.
My shop just bought a HUGE CNC Mill, and I was able to procure some of the material used to crate the mill during its trip from Japan. I'm in the process of figuring out something like a 17' or 20' wide by 20' deep shop/garage space that will have 120/240V and a window unit HVAC system to work on my car inside of. Needless to say, I'm stoked to have a shop area, so currently, all of my attention is focused on completing that.
The motor was machined and set up for ARP mains and I have ARP bolts in the rods. The remaining bits such as the Stage II Turbo Cam from John at Lil' John's Motorsports was purchased. I got tired of porting my heads after the first head, so I purchased a set of stock 317's that I'm going to have cleaned to run in the meantime so if for some reason, my car is ready to run before I finish the second one, I don't have to wait around to get it going.
I also got a steal of a deal on an HP Tuners Pro setup along with the school books so I can get some knowledge going on it. I've also purchased a lava blanket for the BW s475, two Tial MVR 44mm wastegates and a Tial 60mm BOV. Basically, I've got all of my go fast and engine parts ready... I just need to get the car ready for the motor and transmission, get the interior in and I'm ready, set, GO!
Excited to get this shop put up... it's going to rocket my progression on the build immensely.... I hope.
