Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

In case you're wondering why all of the Ms on the weatherstrip channel, turn your computer upside down and you will see Ws Marking where I needed to strip weld thru primer off of for the panel bond.

One other little project was building a caulking gun for the 50ml 3M seam sealer. Short story is I saw a great deal on seam sealer but, didn't realize that it was only 50ml instead of the standard size so, instead of spending another $50 for a new gun, I just made one.

Also, here is the Aeromotive stealth fuel cell with the cage fabricated by Schwartz. They really do some quality work.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Not much accomplished today. I just confirmed that I am really a fan of stud guns and associated pullers. Seems to me like I have better luck with a stud gun than I do with hammer and dolly. The other thing that I've found I like is using layout dye to see the low spots. Until I started using this, I just used primer and guide coat and found I was wasting a lot of primer doing my rough work.

Managed to make a crease pretty much disappear and what's left will get filled in with filler or some high build.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Time for another update. Took a bit of time off of work for the holidays and managed to get a bit accomplished. I'm really close on the body where I have all of the rough metal work finished and need to spray some epoxy before I start using the filler. But, with this unbelievably cold weather it will take me forever to heat up the garage.

For this update, I've done the following:

-Fabricated brackets for the fuel cell cage and mounted it to the frame. When doing this, there was really one thing I wish I had...A good working knowledge of geometry. I guess there is a reason that I wasn't a mathematician . Even with my weak skills I had just enough metal for fabricate the brackets. I planned on using a fuel cell remote filler but, when I received it, figured out it was just too big to fit in the original filler pocket so, I'll make the original filler neck work.

-Made a cover for the fuel cell to replace the metal I had to cut out of the trunk. Surprisingly, I did it correctly on the first time and didn't waste half a sheet of steel like I've done a time or two before.

-Lastly, I mounted my throttle pedal. I was originally planning on welding some studs to the firewall but, with the tight clearances, it made more sense to attach it to the master cylinder and steering column backing plate.

Next step is to mount the vintage air mock up unit and install the rivnuts for the fuel cell cover.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Finally done updating!

Here is the finished fuel cell cover and throttle pedal mounting.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

I haven't gotten much accomplished. I really need to shoot some primer and lay down some filler but, with the daytime high temps in the teens, that isn't going to happen anytime soon.

So, in the interim I decided to go ahead and plumb in my fuel cell. I shopped around a bit for lines and was going to go with the lines from Pegasus racing but, a bit too pricey for me. Instead I went with Aeroquip Starlite hose and fittings connecting the fuel cell to the Corvette filter/regulator. I will run one -6 line to the frame and it will connect to stainless hardline from there to the engine compartment.

The Starlite hose is very easy to work with. It cuts easily and the fittings are easy to install...Much more so than my last experience with doing hydraulic fittings with a crescent wrench and a vice.

The one change I will probably make is getting rid of the vent line and going with one of these PPM fuel cell vents http://pitstopusa.com/i-5081296-ppm-...l-vent-08.html

Stormed_Norm

iTrader: (10)

Very nice build. I saw one of those chassis on e-bay and thought about buying one, just still on the fence about it. Was also thinking of a roadster shop but after adding up all the nice stuff, decided to stay with a stock frame.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

I thought about upgrading the frame but, since I already needed a new floor, I just used it for an excuse to go all in.

RedMan*

iTrader: (4)

Wow, very nicely documented build.

I notice in post #7 that your trunk tub looks like mine…. all rusted out.
Then in post #14 it looks like you deleted the tub and put in a flat floor pan.

Is that correct ?
It looks awesome FWIW.

Thanks,
Stu

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I appreciate it. Not as nice as I would like it to be but, I'm trying to get better with every build.

Yes, I got rid of the tub to put the fuel cell underneath but, when I decided to put the Aeromotive cell in, I had to cut the plate that we made. The trunk pans are pretty reasonable to buy and if you're looking for one, I could make you a good deal.

Zoomin

I think that's the first time I've seen a bare X frame, and that has to be one of the worst designs I've seen. I was going to stick with the stock chassis on my 60, but now I'm thinking not so much.

Nice project, and thanks for all the pix.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

I finally received the last of the bits for the fuel cell. The original return line elbow was too tall and it just brushed up against the fuel cell cover. It probably would have worked but, I didn't want to risk it. So, I used a -8 elbow and used the -8 to -6 reducer on the output. I also installed the PPM vent instead of using the hose loop. The vent is essentially like a large differential breather.

I finally got my 6L80E transmission. The last big piece to put in so I can finish up all of the mock up and pull the body back off of the frame. By the time I get to that stage hopefully it will be above 65 degrees so the paint will cure. I think the transmission will work without having to modify the cross-member but, as it is I had to turn it around. The clearance between the rear of the trans and the cross-member is close but, it isn't touching.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

I finally had some time to get some work done, after being gone away on a work trip for a couple of weeks. Time is getting short, I have to get this somewhat together before I move in June.

For this update, I mounted a shifter from a 2008 Malibu. Because it is such a tall shifter and my tunnel is also tall, I had to build a recess for it so that it would reduce the height. Additionally, the Malibu shifter cable wouldn't attach to the transmission with the original bracket so, I had to fabricate one of those as well.

Life would have been much easier if I had a brake and a shear but, I can't ask for everything...

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

One last picture.

john 67

Nice work. Do you have any provisions for a neutral safety switch or reverse lights on the shifter ? the g 8 trans pan should give you a little more clearence down below if you need it Where are the buckets from ? Thanks JOHN

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

I haven't gotten that far with the neutral safety switch. As for back-up lights, the Biscayne didn't come with any I will need the clearance and definitely plan on using the G8 pan.

The buckets are from a Lexus SC300.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

I've been gone so much with work trips I haven't had time to post an update. I didn't think I accomplished much until I started looking at all of the pictures. I would have had it in primer sooner but, until recently, it's been too cold to put any paint down.

For this update I've done the following:

-With some help, built the center console out of household foam insulation and laid it up in fiberglass. I don't have a final picture but, should have one soon. Because of the size of the planned head unit, I had to make a spot in the tunnel for the radio to fit in.

-Installed the front bracket for the AC condenser.

-When I finally put the transmission in, I saw a few problems. The cross-member didn't go back far enough for the 6L80E to fit in so, I had to move the cross member back, weld some nuts to the frame and put some pass thrus in the cross-member for the exhaust. I really appreciate Dale Schwart's help with figuring this out.

-I took it off of the frame for the last time so I can get the frame powder coated. Additionally, I started laying out the brake lines. Once I get them installed I'll drop the body on the frame for hopefully the last time. If anyone is interested in an Auto Twirler rotisserie, PM me. I expect that it will be up for sale in the next two or three weeks.

-Installed front and rear seat belt mounts.

-Also,I seam sealed everything under the car and put SPI bedliner underneath the body to act as the undercoating. One thing I wish I would have done differently is use some black primer. I ended up using just shy of three gallons to coat the entire bottom of the car!

-Last accomplishment was getting it covered in epoxy primer. I still need to prime the trunk lid and one door but, I should be able to knock that out soon. I need to get everything covered before I have to move in six weeks. I would hate to get more rust on it than it already had.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

More pictures.

nasty64

Great build! Im building a 64 Bel Air with a 4.8 single turbo setup. My chassis is finished. Tubular a arms, MB Old School wheels 18s up front 20s out back. Disc brakes, CPP 500 steering box, auburn posi with 3.73 gears and Dutchman axles. Finishing the floors on the rotisserie right now. I bought a firewall smoothing kit that I will start on once the body is back on the frame. Tail panel, lt and rt tail light assemblys, trunk pans, rear body mounts, and front floor brace are all done. Ill be watching your build.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Sounds like yours had about the same amount of rust as mine. I'm going to be on a bit of a hiatus while I move. The good thing is that I can save up more money for parts.

Renegade6

iTrader: (1)

I haven't done much since the last update. I did manage to seam seal everything on the inside as well as putting some 3M expanding foam in some of the areas where I might get some vibration. Some of you may think, that foam will only rust but, it is an automotive grade. If any of you do this, it expands about 10X the original volume.

Because I wanted to sell my rotisserie before I moved I went ahead and put the brake lines on it. This was my first experience with NiCop (cuniform) and it was much easier to work with than stainless. I did have to make a couple of modifications on the top of the frame rail and I used studs to hold on the clamps but, nothing too difficult.

The biggest news is that I found my final engine for this. A 2012 L77 (Caprice PPV engine, the multi-fuel version of the G8 engine) with only 18,000 miles and most of the accessories.

It's together for the time being, just enough so I can trailer it to the new house.