cgocifer

Hey all, I've been around for a while under the name CGO, but for some reason, my account password was wiped out and I have been unable to get it to work by requesting new ones.

Anyway, I'm close to having the car wired. It's a 65 Chevelle with an American Autowire Classic Update Series kit, LSX with custom harness, and etc.

My engine harness needs 3 connections = 20 Amp fused ignition circuit, 20 Amp fused battery circuit, and 25 Amp fused ignition circuit for fuel pump relay.

The AAW bulkhead connector has a battery feed and ignition feed for ECM, but AAW informed me that those are only rated for 5 amps. They also said that the wire gauge on the ECM harness is too small at 14/16 gauge. ECM harness builder said it is same as factory and AAW doesn't know what they are talking about.

AAW said I need to use one of the 12 gauge accessory connections inside the driver compartment for fuel pump relay, but that I will need to re-wire the ECM with a heavier gague wire to match the 12 gauge wire in the AAW harness...

Said I can use the unfused pink wire from engine compt. bulkhead connector for the coil, but will need an inline fuse. Said I can also use the Red bat2 connector for ECM. Both 12 gauge wires. Again, said I will need to match the wire gauge on the ECM harness...

Not sure that I want to completely rewire this engine harness.

Any ideas, comments, suggestions?

Mike_hawk

When I wired my swap I used the vehicles stock harness and pcm. I used two 6 pole fuse blocks to power my pcm/fan/fuelpump/obd2/and CEL, one fuse block was ignition powered (using the vehicle's old distributor wire and a relay) and the other was wired directly to the battery. My ecu(05 silverado) sends a ground signal (small wire) to power my fuel pump relay wired with 12 gauge. I'm not familiar with the harness you have but you probly need a fuse block and a few relays to make it work, you should visit lt1swap.com and look at the wiring diagrams and pictures he has and see if you can figure out what you need.

cgocifer

Thanks, that's what I'm leaning towards. I'm probably going to use the ignition feed (for coil) from the bulkhead connector to power a fuse block and then one right from the battery to power another fuse block for constant hot.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

What I did was use a relay to power the IGN 12+ hot / Pink wires. Battery hot to the Relay (Painless Aux Block) and is actived by a IGN hot (can use off of the body fuse block, directly from the key/column, etc).

Mounted under the dash and out of sight... but near the PCM...


The Relay then powers all of the fused circuits (pcm, injectors, coils, fuel relay, etc).

This setup also has three battry hot circuits. I added another 4 more fused circuits for all of my Battery Hot and IGN hot needs.

BC

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

BC, I love ya man, but you gotta start thinking of us old guys. Quit sticking stuff under the dash where you gotta lay upside-down on your back to work on it. I'm trying to come up with an elegant (and accessible) solution for my Holley HP EFI Rambler project. Something that doesn't require contortionism to work on...

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am a Old Guy !... it just takes me a bit to get them things done under the dash.. .. then a few hours crawl out.. or sometimes I just take a nap first. .LOL..

I just turned 61 last week !

BC

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Well, ya got me by a year. Too bad for me, 2013 was my year of aging. Two torn muscles, an 11-stitch gash in my leg, plus the 3 flattened discs in my lower back I've had for 30 years... For every hour I work on my car, I have to take that many DAYS off to recover... Sixty is the new eighty!

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

listen to your harness builder

FP relay signal is low power, you could use 20 ga wire if it's short enough