Popsnova

iTrader: (2)

Hello all , this is my 1st post.
My good friend and I are going to attempt to install a 5.3 engine in his 81 2nd gen. Camaro. He keeping his stock 4spd. transmission.
He just purchased a 04 5.3 with appox. 80-100k on it , it also came with a full harness and cpu.
Now we need to compose a comprehensive list of what we need total to make this happen. I hoping you guys who have done this will be willing to help with advice, part #s or items you may have to sell to be ready for the swap this spring.
He's replacing a stock 305 so he wound like around 325-375 hp. maybe add a turbo down the line..
Any help will be Greatly appreciated.
Thanks

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

There are many ways to go, and mine is but one (build thread linked in my footer). I too started with a 305 SBC powered 81 F-body. It ran on 6 cylinders and probably topped out at 90 or 95 HP when I stomped on it. Ooooh baby, feel the power. You can't imagine how many drag races I passed on while driving thing back from Toronto. Everyone saw a bright red Trans Am and simply had to throw a rev at me.

In quick succession, I picked up a '69 350HP SBC 350 which moved like a beast and idled like one and then a 2001 Corvette LS1 which moved like a bigger beast and idled like a kitten.

Can you say "Sleeper?"

The car in my footer pretty much looks someone used a tractor to drag it out of their back 40, stuck a battery in it and whooped it up when it actually started. However, there is about $19K in go fast parts in it, including about $3K worth of experimenting and mind changing. The biggest lesson learned, and I think you'll get this from everyone, is to be painfully honest what your end goal for the car is going to and carefully plan out the path to that goal. Buy things once.

To give an idea of what it costs to change your mind or try things without fully thinking them through, here is a partial list of things I wasted money on that quickly got replaced with something better:

• SBC 350, Holley Commander 950 EFI total loss: $1100 (sold the engine at break-even, traded the EFI at BIG net loss)
• Stock style 3.73 posi c-clip rear end: $700 (clutch pack shot after 1000 miles of hard road race use, switched to Truetrac based 3.42 with Ford style bolt-in axles which cost me about $1500, but I still wasted $700 getting there).
• Beefing up the stock 1981 WS6 rear brakes: $400 (new rotors, rebuilt calipers, new pads, slider pins... total waste. Just convert directly to the modern brake system of your choice and save your sanity).

By the way, If 325-375 HP is your goal, you're in luck because I think you'll get to the bottom end of that range simply by using a good set of headers and making sure the engine is well tuned. Is your engine iron or aluminum block? What's the eventual goal with the car? Where do you see it being in 2 years?

Skull1313

Thank you 1981TA. I'm actually the guy who is doing the swap. My buddy just posted before I had the chance. My objective is to have a car that is a good cruiser. Going on trips. Someday I want to do the Hotrod Power Tour. It wont be for a while. I might take it to the track just to see what she'll do but nothing serious. It is a t-top car. In 2 yrs I'm hoping to be done with it. It needs bodywork and such. Btw the bottom end is cast iron block. I heard good things about these and how you can put a ton of power down. I might throw a turbo kit at it someday but for now just want to see the car move again. I contemplated a 6 speed as well.

73turbo53

1" setback motor mounts will put the motor in the same place as the stock sbc. The f-body oil pan fits great. Sell the stock harness and ecm and used the holley hp efi so that you can tune the car yourself with great sucess. My build thread link at the bottom has pics of my 2nd gens build. Good luck

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Nice! I'm hoping to do the Power Tour too. Even as heavy modded as my car is, it is still relatively streetable. The biggest issues are the Lexan windshield in rainy weather and the lack of AC.

No matter which way you go though, I *strongly* recommend you put in a good set of frame connectors. Even a modest amount of power may cause your car to twist, and T-top cars are more prone to this than hard tops.

Skull1313

That part has already been done. Lol. That was the first thing I did when I got the car. I'm wondering how hard it would be to swap in a 6speed tranny as well.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

My swap started with the factory TH350 trans, and then I later switched to the T56. Due to this, the trans/engine mating surface is in the 2nd gen factory stock location. A few things result from sticking with this location (as opposed to moving the engine/trans forward like some have done).

First, I had to use a BFH on the trans tunnel to get things to clear properly, particularly on the driver side toward the rear of the trans where all the solenoids stick out. Also, look in your trans tunnel where that brace goes across the floor pan behind the shifter hole. I had to notch that brace about 1 1/2" to clear the shifter.

Second, your oil pan options now include the C5 Batwing pan, instead of being limited to the usual F-body, GM muscle car or aftermarket pans. if your car is going to be lowered, you'll want to keep this in mind.

Third, your front/rear balance on your car will shift rearward, which is good for handling. 2nd Gens are well known for being nose heavy and butt light. Anything you can do the correct for this will help.

Fourth, your accessory drive choices for the front of the engine are impacted. I went with the Corvette setup. I didn't have to cut or notch or clearance anything. Direct drop in. 2001 Corvette power steering hose connected to the 1981 steering box without any converters or extra fittings. I had to bend the hard line a little to clear the center link in the suspension. However, most people use a truck or F-body accessory drive. I know frame notching will be required around the alternator in the F-body variety. I have no clue about the truck variety.