kevleetee

Im looking for clutch mastercylinder options. Im running stock Ls1 clutch mastercylinder on 69 Camaro with the firewall bracket and modified first gen pedals inside. This setup does not have the leverage ration of the 98-02 mastercylinder/pedal arrangement. My pedal effort input is ridiculous! Everything works correctly otherwise. Ive seen the Wildwood/McLeod clutch mastercylinder. Thanks

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The only way to reduce pedal effort without changing the geometry is to use a smaller bore MC. However, the smaller bore MC won't move as much fluid for the same stroke which might cause clutch release problems.

You need to change the pedal geometry and use a MC with a longer stroke that has a smaller bore. That's the only way you'll reduce pedal effort.

Andrew

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

What Andrew said. Easiest and surest bet is to move the rod take-off point closer to the pedal pivot to increase the ratio. You'll prolly be happy with around 6:1, easy to measure what you have before removing the pedal for mods...

ijimmy

DITTO , I have been thru several systems , changed clutch , master cylinder , pressure plate , and slave cylinder , IM DONE , its out now , the t56 that is , and , a 2004r is going in its place , the pedal pressure required for that system is ridiculous , and only having to move the pedal about an inch before disengaging the clutch is wrong also , I broke down and bought American power trains system , it was no better , someone needs to come up with different system with better geometry , or a micro master cylinder , like suggested above

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The systems that use the stock F-body MCs leave a lot to be desired. In order to get all of the components working correctly you really need to have an understanding of how far the clutch fingers need to be pressed in order to get a clean release of the clutch. This distance is not the same for all clutches and should really be established in a press before the clutch is installed. Once that distance is known whatever MC and pedal arrangement that is being used should be tested to assure that the clutch is being released fully.

Before I installed my engine and trans in the car, I made a long line from my MC to the TOB to test the system. It is a lot easier to see what the bearing is doing when the engine is out of the car. I originally started with a 3/4" bore MC, but felt that the bearing was moving too far and I didn't like the hard pedal. I eventually switched to a .700" bore MC, which reduced bearing travel and gave me a softer pedal.

I know that Keisler has had many issues, but one product that they engineered perfectly was their firewall MC mount for the GM A-bodies. Mine has been installed since 2008 and works perfectly. It uses generic "gelling" style MCs that are readily available from Wilwood and others. This style MC has a long (1.4" of travel) which is great for clutch release systems.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...n-2-0-a-2.html

Posts #52 down have more details.

Andrew

kevleetee

Im going to have to fab up a set of first gen pedals with exactly the same configuration as 98-02, even with that spring on top!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That's probably unnecessary. If you get a proper firewall bracket that uses the gelling style MC, you should be good to go...

Andrew

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I departed entirely from the stock MC style clutch setup and went with Wilwood clutch and manual brake MCs. The mod process is documented in my build thread. Anyway, it's one option.