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Engine won't sit level side to side moroso swap plates

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Old 03-21-2014, 06:48 PM
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Default Engine won't sit level side to side moroso swap plates

Ok.... I'm incredibly frustrated and have been fighting this for about a week and cannot get it figured out... I've searched everywhere and haven't found an answer...

I have an ls2 and a t56 going into a 68 camaro... I'm using Moroso swap plates and an ats trans crossmember...

After elongating the holes for the frame stands slightly the motor will drop in just fine and sit level side to side(angle finder across valley cover).

But the trans is obviously slanted and will not sit flush on the transmission crossmember (passenger side sits high). I can get it to sit flat if I jack up the drivers side of the motor about 3/8" which puts the motor slanted about 3.5 degrees to the passenger side. The trans was rebuilt by TDP and I can't imagine these could be clocked wrong when putting back together

I have tried moving the motor all around and haven't gotten any closer. I am pretty sure the engine stands are for a 327 but I have no idea which motor came origionaly in my car because I bought it as a roller and vin only tells me it was a v8... But the energy suspension small block mounts fit perfectly so I am pretty sure they are correct.



Any ideas please... I am at a loss, things had been going too smooth for too long but this one is kickin my butt

Thanks!
Old 03-21-2014, 08:39 PM
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No familliarity with the Moroso parts, but BBC mounts offset the engine to the passenger side originally. Good luck.
Old 03-21-2014, 09:27 PM
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Get back to the Manual Trans forum Matt, you have no fu here.. .

Nice call on the BBC mounts!
Old 03-22-2014, 02:56 AM
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Since I just finished fitting the same LS2/T56 into my 67 Chevelle, I know what you are talking about! The two "flat looking" areas on the top of the transmission case are not "level", they tilt to the drivers side. Put your level across the bolts on the shifter plate, thats the only place on top of the tranny thats actually level. Looks are very deceiving! Your tranny mount will then be just right! Cheers.
Old 03-22-2014, 08:56 AM
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Thanks all for the replies... I have really hoped this is just my eyes playing tricks on me but unfortunately I don't think thats the case... It is actually where the trans contacts the trans crossmember that it isn't level... you can look at the back of the trans and see it is tilted slightly... here are a few pics to show you what I am talking about... Again, I appreciate the help! I just want this thing buttoned up so I can finish the rear 4 bar!!! I am still hoping it is some dumb thing I am overlooking..

Adam


Old 03-22-2014, 09:08 AM
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I used the Moroso mounts with no issues. Didn't need to elongate holes either. Could you have a little twist in the sub frame. I *** u me this is an F-body.
Old 03-22-2014, 09:34 AM
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Have you tried putting your level across the bottom of the engine oil pan?
Old 03-22-2014, 06:08 PM
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I have not tried it on the oil pan.... That's a good idea though. I'll try thst tomorrow, may tell more of the story.

I have checked the subframe and crossmember and it is square and level... I really think it has to be something stupid and simple I am just missing... It may be time to have a few beers amd attack it again... Amazingly, that tactic has worked in the past..
Old 03-22-2014, 06:15 PM
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I will add that I don't believe anything is at fault with the ats crossmember or the moroso mounts. They fit great, I only elongated the holes in case I had to move the motor a tad to fit the large kooks headers.
Old 03-23-2014, 08:39 AM
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I had a similar problem with the mounts on my 66 chevelle and I ended up replacing the adapter plate mount with the hooker plates and fixed my problem.
Old 03-23-2014, 02:02 PM
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How about checking the trans mount to see if is level or square ? Just wondering if the trans mount is bad since it will not sit flush with the crossmember. Get a level on the trans mating surface and then mount the mount check with the level again and see if the are both plumb.
Just thinking..
BC

Last edited by bczee; 03-23-2014 at 02:17 PM.
Old 03-23-2014, 05:54 PM
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Thanks for all the ideas guys... I haven't been able to get in the shop today due to an illness in the family but I will check a few of these things tomorrow before basically taking everything out and apart till I find a problem. I do have a set of dirty dingo plates I may swap out for the moroso plates just to see, but I don't believe they are the issue...

I don't believe it is a problem with the actual trans mount because you can visually see the whole trans is tilted and the square hole on top for the shifter is not horizontal with the flat surface of the floor... But them again the eyes can play tricks on you, I'm gonna attack it again with a tape measure and angle finder and get to the bottom of it.

Thanks again
Old 03-23-2014, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by beerb8ammoGRITS
I don't believe it is a problem with the actual trans mount because you can visually see the whole trans is tilted and the square hole on top for the shifter is not horizontal with the flat surface of the floor...
Thanks again
Funny, you state that the engine is level at the Lifter Valley rail.. right ?.. if so.. the trans would normally be level also if bolted up correctly..?... you aren't using any offset pins on the Bell Housing or something ?

Seem to me if the engine is level, the trans should be level (at the shifter and mount).. if not.. something is off elsewhere.. ??

just some more to think about and check.

BC
Old 03-24-2014, 05:38 AM
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That is exactly what has me so perplexed... If the engine is level, the trans should also be level... The only thing I am a little curious about is the bell housing... The trans I got didn't come with a bell so I ordered one from tick performance. But it was supposed to be a stock replacements so there shouldnt be an issue... But it's the only thing I can really think of right now that would throw it off like this... I don't think it would be possible to put the trans together, clocked incorrectly when the rebuild was done... Or is it?? TDP did do a lot of mixing and matching of parts between f body, SSR tail housing, and some viper and custom parts machined to fit an F body, and about a hundred other modifications that quickly got over my head... Anything I can check there?? I may give Jason a call this afternoon and see if he has any ideas

Thanks again for all the help

Last edited by beerb8ammoGRITS; 03-24-2014 at 06:23 AM.
Old 03-24-2014, 06:21 AM
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Ok.... Just ran out to the shop and checked angle on oil pan... Perfect...I also took another look at how all the trans pieces bolt up and just don't see a way it could be put together clocked wrong... So the engine is right where it needs to be, the trans crossmember is right where it needs to be.... But the trans is about 3/16" high to one side.... Just doesn't make sense... I'm definitely missing something...
Old 03-24-2014, 10:00 AM
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Have you tried loosening the bell housing to engine/trans bolts yet? There shouldn't be that much play but maybe it will rotate enough to sit level. Maybe since the parts are mixed and matched the dowels are smaller than the hole they fit in and are letting the transmission **** to one side.
Old 03-24-2014, 12:42 PM
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With the Locating pin.. I don't think the Bell Housing would move at all.

I would suggest calling Tick Performance and questioning them on the Bell Housing may be a bad one..

BC
Old 03-24-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_hawk
Have you tried loosening the bell housing to engine/trans bolts yet? There shouldn't be that much play but maybe it will rotate enough to sit level. Maybe since the parts are mixed and matched the dowels are smaller than the hole they fit in and are letting the transmission **** to one side.
Check both the bellhousing to engine and the bellhousing to tranny. The dowel pins on the block and tranny should easily prevent the amount of rotation you are seeing.

Are you sure you have the dowel pins installed? Two on each?

Old 03-24-2014, 04:29 PM
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All 4 dowel pins were installed.... But y'all may be on to something.... If memory serves the dowel pins were pretty worn and I may even remember one being slightly bent... I didn't really think much of it because the bolts went in...... But...... I seem to remember several bolts being slightly more difficult than they should have to go in.... I don't know if this could have been enough off to cause my issue but I'll take the motor out tonight and separate the engine from the trans. I called the dealership and they'll have 4 new dowels for me tomorrow or Wednesday.... At this point I think that is my best shot...


Anyone have advice on getting the old dowels out? I'm worried about them shearing off if I attack them with channel locks, vice grips, and heat...

Thanks again.... Y'all may have found my screwup!
Old 03-26-2014, 06:33 AM
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Well... I pulled the motor, and with it on blocks I used an angle finder to confirm the trans is rotated a whole 5 degrees counterclockwise.... I checked at the engine valley cover, the oil pan, and the trans on the trans mount, shifter box, and the inspection plate on the top. All locations confirmed 5 degrees off...

I separated the motor and trans and could not see any visual signs of the dowels being bent... So again... I'm at a loss and really don't know where to look next... I left a message with tick performance and hopefully they can shed some light on it today... I'm going to try to mate the engine and trans again this evening just for ***** and giggles and maybe some manic will happen...


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