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1970 Chevelle SS - JY 6.0, T4 S475 turbo

Old 04-09-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fengstang
man i wish i had skills like yours! great build
Thanks a lot! Most of puting the car back together is just a big puzzle haha. As long as you have tools and time it can be done! As for the LS part, I read pretty much everything in this forum!
Old 04-09-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
Looks good dude,

Also. I have my factory o2 sensors pre turbo, original sensors, been boosted for 6-7 years now. Still fine. Don't sweat moving them.
Thanks a lot!! I mentioned in the thread that you were my inspiration. Hopefully I will see you at one of the shows again this year!

I will leave them there and see how it goes. I figure if they go I can replace them easy enough.
Old 04-09-2014, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LSChevelle
Thanks a lot!! I mentioned in the thread that you were my inspiration. Hopefully I will see you at one of the shows again this year!

I will leave them there and see how it goes. I figure if they go I can replace them easy enough.
haha holy ****, I only looked at the pics and never ready many of the posts at the start of thread. Didn't even notice the Alberta plates on the truck! Awesome to see you went through with the build!! Can't wait to see it on Alberta roads If you need anything, give me a shout.
Old 04-10-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
haha holy ****, I only looked at the pics and never ready many of the posts at the start of thread. Didn't even notice the Alberta plates on the truck! Awesome to see you went through with the build!! Can't wait to see it on Alberta roads If you need anything, give me a shout.
I can't wait to see it on the road either. If all goes well I plan to be touring quite a bit this summer! I appreciate it!

Yesterday was one of those 1-step forward, 2-steps back kind of days. I finished getting everything with the wastegate buttoned up. But, while I was welding on the flange for the wastegate,the crossover from the drivers side bank must have sucked in a bit. It was now too close to the waterpump. I cut it up and welded a bit of a bend into it, plenty of clearance now!




Looks close in the last pic, but there is at least 3/4" of clearance. I also tested to make sure all my welds were air tight. Of course they weren't, so I had some patching to do. Good thing I'm wrapping these.. nobody will have to see the welds!

I welded the bung for the wideband into the downpipe as well.


Also, installed the 90 for my pressure line on the turbo.


Next up:

Mount control box for DBW on inner fender.
Mount solenoid for tru-boost.
Run the wastegate, transmission, boost gauge and brake booster vacuum lines.
Install intake pipe.

Then I might just go for a little cruise!
Old 04-10-2014, 02:48 PM
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For your plug wires, I ran across these interesting pictures. PLug wires are from a 2011 V6 Silverado. So you only get 6 but you only truly need 6, the stock wires work on the back 2 cylinders(7/8). I ran the stock ones with boots on them(touching the manifolds) and they lasted 50km lol.


Old 04-10-2014, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
For your plug wires, I ran across these interesting pictures. PLug wires are from a 2011 V6 Silverado. So you only get 6 but you only truly need 6, the stock wires work on the back 2 cylinders(7/8). I ran the stock ones with boots on them(touching the manifolds) and they lasted 50km lol.
Yes! I forgot to mention that on the to-do list as well. I was just going to get some kind of a heat tubing for them but those may work better actually! Good find, I will grab 6 of those and see how it goes.

I also read somewhere that wrapping the manifolds helps a lot. Someone even claimed you could touch them after a hard run, do you have any experience with that?
Old 04-10-2014, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LSChevelle
I also tested to make sure all my welds were air tight. Of course they weren't, so I had some patching to do.
My favorite line.
I can weld almost most anything and make it air tight, but for some reason exhaust tubing confounds me. Hahaha.
Old 04-11-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by LSChevelle
Yes! I forgot to mention that on the to-do list as well. I was just going to get some kind of a heat tubing for them but those may work better actually! Good find, I will grab 6 of those and see how it goes.

I also read somewhere that wrapping the manifolds helps a lot. Someone even claimed you could touch them after a hard run, do you have any experience with that?
If a plug wire or its boot is touching the manifolds, their life will be short. They HAVE to have some air space, even if its only 1/2". Been there and melted many a wires haha

Wrapping does help big time. Do yourself a favour and buy the titanium heat wrap. Wont make you itch and looks great/forms great. Also, go to princess auto and buy a cv boot tie pliars and cv boot ties, use them to hold the wrap on. Works very good!
Old 04-11-2014, 11:35 AM
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The Titanium wrap WILL make you itch. Wear long sleeves and gloves when working with it.

And as far as touching a wrapped manifold/header after a hard run, you'd want to double wrap it for touch-ability. The weave is loose enough that you can see some metal shining through. It won't burn you like a bare metal tube, but it'll still hurt.
Old 04-11-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gofastwclass
My favorite line.
I can weld almost most anything and make it air tight, but for some reason exhaust tubing confounds me. Hahaha.
Haha yea tell me about it. The thing that got me is anywhere the welds looked decent they weren't sealing. If they looked like hell they were air tight!

Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
If a plug wire or its boot is touching the manifolds, their life will be short. They HAVE to have some air space, even if its only 1/2". Been there and melted many a wires haha

Wrapping does help big time. Do yourself a favour and buy the titanium heat wrap. Wont make you itch and looks great/forms great. Also, go to princess auto and buy a cv boot tie pliars and cv boot ties, use them to hold the wrap on. Works very good!
Makes sense, I appreciate the advice! One less thing I have to do trial and error with.

I have some titanium wrap. Not sure I have enough to do the entire hotside though. Until I order more I am trying to decide whether to wrap the manifolds or the crossover first. Probably going to do the manifolds.


Originally Posted by BudRacing
The Titanium wrap WILL make you itch. Wear long sleeves and gloves when working with it.

And as far as touching a wrapped manifold/header after a hard run, you'd want to double wrap it for touch-ability. The weave is loose enough that you can see some metal shining through. It won't burn you like a bare metal tube, but it'll still hurt.
Thanks for the heads up. My hands have been taking a beating lately, I need to buy a good set of gloves. I'm going to pick up the plug wires Ls1_Chevelle mentioned. Then just single wrap it all. If it works, great! If not I will buy another roll and do another layer.
Old 04-13-2014, 10:36 PM
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Hey all,

It was a productive weekend for me! I wrapped my hotside with DEI Titanium wrap. It didn't seem to itch. But, there were a lot of little particles breaking off so I could see some people having a reaction to it.

Turned out decently I think!



It's nice to see everything bolted back together for hopefully the last time!


I didn't pickup the 2011 v6 sparkplugs yet but I did get everything back together and hooked up. I took the car for a cruise to seat the rings. Everything was working great, until... The gas pedal stopped working.

Symptoms are, works great with engine off, can log throttle body opening and closing properly. Seems to rev in park properly. While in gear it works up to approximately 30% throttle (could be load based as well). Then it quits, engine just idles. Turn the car off and then on, it works again but, does the same thing once I try to drive.

I have read a couple different possible culprits, if anyone has experience with this please let me know! So far what I have found..

PCM/TAC module/Pedal incompatible: I have a 2003 blue/green ecm. According to lt1swap.com the TAC module I should have is 12573058, while I have 12573059. I have searched and I believe 058 is simply a typo, correct me if I am wrong.

TCC Brake Signal: One person mentioned that the TCC signal needs to be setup. I thought this was only used for unlocking the converter though. Since I am using a TH400 it shouldn't be needed?

Something similar to this could occur if it is throwing a P1514 code and would require modifying the calculated airflow vs rpm vs tps table to correct. Unfortunately, I forgot to check for codes before I left my parents place, I will check that tomorrow night.

Other than that, maybe I have a bad APP sensor or something. If anyone can think of anything different or notices something wrong above, please let me know!
Old 04-14-2014, 01:10 PM
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That Turbo 6.0 looks so sexy in there!!!!!!!!!! What gear you running in the rear end, now that your boosting it, you can throw like 2:73's in the rear to keep the R's down crusing on the highway and it will still rip because you have to be making at leat 800hp with that set-up? Or a gear vendors OD unit would be cool and they are strong from what I hear, but I know you budget is limited, maybe pick up one used!!!!
Old 04-15-2014, 08:25 AM
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awesome build. 1970 Chevelles are my favorite car of anything. I am envious.
What i did with my coil packs was i relocated them under the manifolds on the frame crossmember.
Now my car is a 1980 Z28 but i dont think it far off what you have. I welded a couple nuts to the frame and mounted the brackets. I was able to use the stock wires too. That was a small bonus. Plug changes are still easy. I had to bend the drivers side coil bracket a bit so the one spark plug wire would clear the steering shaft. It cleaned up the look of the engine bay a bit too which to me was kinda nice. But the main thing was the wires are nowhere near the manifolds.
I have met LS1 CHevelle at the Castrol track last summer. Real nice bunch of guys. Wish i could have spent more time with them but my work schedule was insane. Matt, if your looking, i sent a pm a while back. Hope all is good man.

LSChevelle. Keep up the good work. I have a similar setup with a 5.3 though. Good luck. I will try to keep up with your updates.
Old 04-15-2014, 08:27 AM
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LSChevelle, if i get out west again for work near you i will send a pm. Hopefully i can see your car. I didnt get to see Matts. Damn.
Old 04-15-2014, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mikesanto70
That Turbo 6.0 looks so sexy in there!!!!!!!!!! What gear you running in the rear end, now that your boosting it, you can throw like 2:73's in the rear to keep the R's down crusing on the highway and it will still rip because you have to be making at leat 800hp with that set-up? Or a gear vendors OD unit would be cool and they are strong from what I hear, but I know you budget is limited, maybe pick up one used!!!!
Thank you Mike!! I am still running 3.73s in the 12 bolt. I will probably want to go down to something like a 3.08 though. I figured I already have this so I will try it and see. I also looked into the gear vendors! For the price I think I would be better off finding a nice 4l80e though, especially since I'm running the stock ECM anyways.


Originally Posted by SSZ
awesome build. 1970 Chevelles are my favorite car of anything. I am envious.
What i did with my coil packs was i relocated them under the manifolds on the frame crossmember.
Now my car is a 1980 Z28 but i dont think it far off what you have. I welded a couple nuts to the frame and mounted the brackets. I was able to use the stock wires too. That was a small bonus. Plug changes are still easy. I had to bend the drivers side coil bracket a bit so the one spark plug wire would clear the steering shaft. It cleaned up the look of the engine bay a bit too which to me was kinda nice. But the main thing was the wires are nowhere near the manifolds.
I have met LS1 CHevelle at the Castrol track last summer. Real nice bunch of guys. Wish i could have spent more time with them but my work schedule was insane. Matt, if your looking, i sent a pm a while back. Hope all is good man.

LSChevelle. Keep up the good work. I have a similar setup with a 5.3 though. Good luck. I will try to keep up with your updates.
Wow another Canadian! Thank's for the kind words, relocating the coilpacks is a good idea. I will look into that if I have problems with how things are now. The wrap actually helped a lot for the heat. I'm guessing the wires will probably get hard and brittle over time though.

Definitely send me a message! I plan to get up to Castrol a couple times this summer and maybe take a couple trips to the track at Medicine Hat as well, once everything is tuned!
Old 04-15-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by LSChevelle
I have read a couple different possible culprits, if anyone has experience with this please let me know! So far what I have found..

PCM/TAC module/Pedal incompatible: I have a 2003 blue/green ecm. According to lt1swap.com the TAC module I should have is 12573058, while I have 12573059. I have searched and I believe 058 is simply a typo, correct me if I am wrong.

TCC Brake Signal: One person mentioned that the TCC signal needs to be setup. I thought this was only used for unlocking the converter though. Since I am using a TH400 it shouldn't be needed?

Something similar to this could occur if it is throwing a P1514 code and would require modifying the calculated airflow vs rpm vs tps table to correct. Unfortunately, I forgot to check for codes before I left my parents place, I will check that tomorrow night.

Other than that, maybe I have a bad APP sensor or something. If anyone can think of anything different or notices something wrong above, please let me know!
Alright, last night I figured out the gas pedal issue. It was throwing the P1514 code. From what I understand the ECU has a calculation that it uses to guess the amount of oxygen going past the throttle body at x throttle position and y rpm. Because my car is turbo'd the amount of oxygen was a lot higher than it expected, causing it to freak out and essentially disable the gas pedal.

Now that I have that figured out I drove the car for an hour or so last night collecting data for the VE table. It seems very strong NA, as soon as I get into boost it is hesitating and going lean though. I suspect that I will need to throw in the 80lbs Siemens injectors right away. I had originally left them off to simplify the first-start tuning process.

One weird thing was even though the car would buck and show that it was going lean, the Duty% on the injectors never went above 70%. Which makes me think I could have a fuel pressure issue, I will also look into that.
Old 04-15-2014, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by LSChevelle
Alright, last night I figured out the gas pedal issue. It was throwing the P1514 code. From what I understand the ECU has a calculation that it uses to guess the amount of oxygen going past the throttle body at x throttle position and y rpm. Because my car is turbo'd the amount of oxygen was a lot higher than it expected, causing it to freak out and essentially disable the gas pedal.

Now that I have that figured out I drove the car for an hour or so last night collecting data for the VE table. It seems very strong NA, as soon as I get into boost it is hesitating and going lean though. I suspect that I will need to throw in the 80lbs Siemens injectors right away. I had originally left them off to simplify the first-start tuning process.

One weird thing was even though the car would buck and show that it was going lean, the Duty% on the injectors never went above 70%. Which makes me think I could have a fuel pressure issue, I will also look into that.
The bucking and 70% duty cycle could be because that's all that is being requested.

How is your fuel system setup? pump, size of lines, regulator, etc.

Medicine hat does a super fun heads up street car shoot out. It was a riot last year. 35 minute cruise through downtown, back to the track and draw names. I went 4 rounds or so then you can run test and tune
Old 04-15-2014, 02:12 PM
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When i was working in Calgary last summer i was told by a few people out there that there was going to be a dragstrip built out there. It was to be built in Airdrie. You guys know any info on this?
Old 04-15-2014, 03:29 PM
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Theres a bunch of speculation. The only extra track we will have this year is in Rimbey. They are trying hard to be a full 1/4 this year but so far they are only able to run 1/8 mile.
Old 04-15-2014, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
The bucking and 70% duty cycle could be because that's all that is being requested.

How is your fuel system setup? pump, size of lines, regulator, etc.

Medicine hat does a super fun heads up street car shoot out. It was a riot last year. 35 minute cruise through downtown, back to the track and draw names. I went 4 rounds or so then you can run test and tune
I setup the table to be rich, but it is possible. I will have to check that out.

Fuel system is an in tank walboro 400, 8an feed and return, stock truck regulator. I have no fuel pressure gauge right now so I am going to get one of those.

Awesome! That sounds like a riot, I will have to check it out.

Originally Posted by SSZ
When i was working in Calgary last summer i was told by a few people out there that there was going to be a dragstrip built out there. It was to be built in Airdrie. You guys know any info on this?
Yea Rocky Mountain Motorsports is being built in Airdrie. No strip though, just a road course. Kind of disappointing since they told everyone it would have a strip to get the required signatures and then changed their plans.

Originally Posted by ls1_chevelle
Theres a bunch of speculation. The only extra track we will have this year is in Rimbey. They are trying hard to be a full 1/4 this year but so far they are only able to run 1/8 mile.
Yes, I heard they laid the last half pavement last summer. Rimbey is a little closer to Calgary so I will probably head there as well!

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