homemade87

[QUOTE=ls1nova71;18143534]Can't believe no one has mentioned this..... http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

This should get you going, as long as you have some kind of understanding of how electrical systems work, and can use a soldering iron.[/Quote

I used this to do my 04 truck harness. Worked good for me. Save me quite a few dollars I could spend on other things. It did take a while , but I did do a custom fit and it worked out great. My time is cheap when I am working for my self.

fire67bird

Forgot to mention. Make yourself one of these:

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...0/WIRE-HOLDER/

They make soldering the wires a lot easier. Also use a propane torch as your heat source. It works a lot faster than the soldering iron and produces a nicer joint.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Two roach clips and a propane torch to melt and burn your insulation. Not for me.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

Or one of these

http://m.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html

fire67bird

Whatever meats your loaf.

By the time you wait for the soldering iron to warm up and then warm up the wires you are trying to soldier, the guy using the torch is already done. If you keep your torch flame low, work quickly, and keep the flame moving, you won't burn anything. Then just slide a heat shrink tube over the soldered connection and you're good to go.

zipster

iTrader: (5)

I used lt1swaps.com small torch, marine heat shrink with the glue. Worked perfectly. Moved the computer behind the dash, bought the plastic loom cover. Was not to bad, unpin red and blue computer plugs, drape wires on engine route and hold in place with zip ties. Add wire to the short ones, shorten the long ones.

JoeNova

I used http://lt1swap.com/2004vortec_pcm.htm for my 06 harness. Removed all of the wires/pins in yellow.

Honestly not too sure what to do about the firewall connector, or how much of it is needed. I still have some work to do, as I've only made it as far as tearing the harness apart and removing the un-needed pins as marked on that website.

I still don't know what else can be removed. I'm probably going to start by pulling out the ECU pins for the coils and injectors and doing them first, then moving sensor by sensor from there. That firewall connector still has me baffled.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Not sure exactly what firewall plug you're talking about, but my guess is if it went inside the truck, its going to be your gauges, ALDL line, cruise control ect.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

In almost ALL cases, the donor harnesses body connectors are cut off

I prefer the diassemble and rebuild method as fieroguru pointed out. Most swaps are hybrids, so using one harness and bandaiding it fit your franken-motor isnt a long term solution. Breaking the harness down allows all the different connectors and circuits to be rerouted, exchanged and deleted if necessary . It also aids in troubleshooting

When I see a spaghetti monster on someones engine, it tells me "half-*** swap"

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I'm right in the middle of my harness rebuild. It's not too bad, but as mentioned, it is time consuming, but can also be therapeutic.
I'm doing a turbo lq4, so I get to remove my rear O2 sensors also.
I am running O2, voltage regulator, idle air, tps, coolant temp, a/c clutch, intake air temp, etc. under my intake and out under the throttle body. I might run my injectors and coils through a hole between an intake runner as well, but it should be pretty clean in the end.
Make sure you have plenty of room to work and spread everything out. I'm sectioning each sensor back to the ecu and then grouping them together by the route I want. You gain a lot of length when wires aren't having to cross over each other.
I also bought a Bussmann relay/fuse block to replace the engine fuse block, though I did get it with my motor.

psi3000

Harbor Freight has these with a magnifier glass for $3. I think i own 3 of them...

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

The tutorials should be in the stickies of this section.

Jucin

I ended up going with this guy who's going to redo the stock one. He was very helpful on the phone and has all positive feedback from other people who used the service.

http://bit.ly/16h0L7J

59belair

I haven't seen any discussion about problems with "crosstalk", between circuits, in the LS swaps harness. I'm in the midst of a 59 BelAir LS1 swap and keep having reoccurring nightmares of a problem that just about did me in on a Cadillac Northstar swap into my T bucket a few years ago. that problem turned out to be electrical interference from an electronic speedometer control wire that I had bundled into the ECM harness. once that wire was re-routed, the problem went away, but it's caused me years of therapy before I figured that out .


FIERO GURU: how goes it? long time no see. glad to see you still doing the great work with the P cars. (you knew me as Russ544 "over there").

sick_46

iTrader: (3)

Where is a good place to buy the factory colored wires to extend a harness?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Ebay for new, junkyard FWD and S10 harnesses for used

You want TXL 18 and 20ga to match

fieroguru

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you over here!

You will have to PM me some pictures of your current project.

fieroguru

iTrader: (1)

Van harnesses are super long. I picked up one from a 2004 express and some of the harness wires were nearly 15' long.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

If I were to do another factory harness I would get a van harness since they seem to have quite a bit of length to them. Plug in all the connectors to where they need to be, pre plan out my wire loom covering with heat shrink ends and just cut all the PCM end terminals off and crimp on new ends. I already have ratchet crimper for the Micro-pack terminals and it would be much faster then soldering and heat shrinking all those damn wires.

No, you just need to stop using shitty soldering irons.