Cooldude2332

Ok so I'm 95% done with my swap as it sits now. I'm only working on rolling the fenders and 5 lug conversion, so I decided to try and start the car...but nothing happened. No dash lights, no fuel pump buzz, doesn't matter what position the key is in, nothing happens. I went with the Chase bays wiring harness and everything is plugged in so I'm not sure what's going on. The positive side of the battery is ran to the alternator and the starter negative is ran to the engine and chassis. I'm unsure about what is giving the relays and fuses their power since there isn't any power wires going to them but I'm assuming they are branched off of the ecu? Please help as there's nothing worse than not being able to hear your project start :/.....Thanks

Billdrift

iTrader: (1)

did you disable the anti theft?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Not enough info here. Is the battery charged?

niscur29

Ok lets start with the first problem. Turning the key does nothing. Does anything in the car work when you turn the key? Or just motor related stuff. If nothing works check the fuse box under the dash and in the bay. Did you hook up the starter relay to the actual starter? You should have batt pos and a black/yellow or black/white 10-12 gauge wire hooked up to the tab on the solenoid. This comes from the s13 tranny harness/blue relay behind fuse box on pass fender. If this is missing the starter won't budge.

2nd. The chase bays harness appears to tie into the factory fuse box at the grey/brown plugs. This means that switched power, batt power, fuel pump, etc comes from the fuse box into the CB harness. Get an FSM and unplug the chase bays **** from the grey/brown plugs. Check for batt, switched, etc at the plugs and fuse box first then making sure the fuse box relays are ok. The CB harness probably uses the stock fuel pump relay in the box. You should be able to trip this yourself by with the relay out to make sure the pump works.

If EVERYTHING at the fuse box that is oem Nissan works fine then starts checking the CB harness. Now a quick check on Zilvia shows a **** ton of problems with CB harnesses so odds are your problems are there but by checking out the oem stuff first you can eleminate problems on your end.

READ THE FSM. The first pages of the fsm go into detail about starting circuit and power supply routing. A multi meter and noid light will do wonders.

Cooldude2332

Ok I got the power issue out of the way. The guy I bought the rolling chassis from apparently cut the power wires going from the relay box to the (pos)battery. From what I can find in all of the forums is that there's 2 wires that connect to a red connector that sits on the positive battery post which supply power to the relays....correct me if I'm wrong with the number of wires. So I plugged those 2 wires up and boom, I got power to everything, at least I think. My issue is that the engine won't turn over. I primed the fuel system more than enough before I tried starting it but it won't fire. Tomorrow I'm going to test if the coils are getting any voltage. I'm only able to work on this for like an hour a day during the week so I'm a little limited on time. FYI, the 2 wires I plugged in were the ones that had a green connector and a black connector, are there any more? I didn't check yet but I'm assuming the coils should be getting power since the starter solenoid is because it's on the same portion of the harness. Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Cooldude2332

Next question, since I have the CB harness wired up, do I need to worry about the anti theft? Wouldn't the harness disable that or do I need to do all that stuff?

Nissan LS240

iTrader: (1)

the anti theft is in the ecu, has to be turned off by a tuner, and you said it wont turn over then that it wont fire, so is it turning over and not starting or not doing anything, asking because you said you wired the starter negative wire to the engine, starters are case grounded. (might have been a typo or you meant to say you grounded the engine using starter mounting bolt to the chassis)

Cooldude2332

The grounding the starter was a typo. I didn't put a comma in between those 2 sentences. There is power to the entire car now. It cranks, meaning the engine is turning but it's not firing up. It's like its not getting fuel/spark. I did crack the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail and it has fuel in it so I'm assuming that it's getting fuel, but I read that the VATS/BCM will disable the fuel injectors....is that true? I was looking at the Newrockies kit for the VATS/BCM but I would much rather buy a tuner. Opinions?

Cooldude2332

I'm thinking about going with the HP tuner to clear the VATS/BCM. Can I get away with just the HP Tuners VCM Scanner or do I need to purchase the HP Tuners Suite? I plan on going forced induction this winter so would it be worth getting the Suite?

Cooldude2332

Anybody?

niscur29

Send the pcm off to frost, lsxpowertuning etc. spend $200 get a baseline tune that eliminates all the unnecessary bs from the pcm and gets you up an running. Then when you go FI, take it to a local tuner. Odds are if vats is still enabled so are the rear O2's, egr, etc and you'll get a bunch of codes. Plus they can set it up for the 4.08 rear, tire sizes, and the current mods you have done.

Nissan LS240

iTrader: (1)

not sure what the hp tuner can do, had my tuned with efi live, but you're going to need someone to turn off rear o2 sensors, charcoal canister, and fan control unless you're using ecu to turn fans on, and of course turn the vats off, turned off the misfire monitor too on mine