Oscar Will

I've always been curious about why I never see the stock Corvette round oil filled "biscuit" engine mounts used in older vehicle conversions.

The Corvette aluminum brackets are beautiful, the mounts totally isolate vibration and shaking from reaching the chassis and they are strong. Sure, you need to build a flat pad off the front crossmember to sit them on but I used them now for over a decade and over 30,000 miles and have been totally happy I did it.

The plate and standard style mounts work ok but I was just wondering.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

They take up more room and are right in the steering column path on both R&P swaps I've done...

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what S10xGN said. Most 1960's and later perimeter frame cars I have seen would have interference issues with that mount style.

In my experience making custom mounts, my own own custom adapters (or even buying adapters for those who can't fabricate) to mate with the frame you have often works better. More so when you factor in potentially paying the Corvette Tax on a set of C5 mount brakets - especially when their ability to fit a non-C5 Corvette application is dubious.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Don't some german and Japanese cars use that kind of mount setup?
Other than those. they would be perfect for mounting a boat engine.

Oscar Will

I guess I didn't consider the later (60s stuff) clearance. Since I don't do anything but ancient cars and trucks that would come into play...especially the "Corvette Tax" on the parts. I'll continue to use them on my old project vehicles.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I think its an early car thing. They will work a lot better in something where you have to fab mounts off the frame rather than the front crossmember. I wish I would have known about them when I built my car. I made my own mounts with flathead type mounts, but the vette ones would have been nicer, unfortunatley I didn't find out about them until about 2 years after I was done.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

If I had a dollar for each time I said that about something...

Oscar Will, I think those type mounts work really well on American stuff up to the late 50's or early 60's. My Thunderbird had a similar mount system from the factory and they may have worked there - but I didn't have and couldn't afford them on the self imposed budget I had at the time.

I'm know my experience is a bit biased because I typically only get to customize 60's to 80's cars with a handful of 30's to 50's cars thrown in and an occasional 90's up vehicle.

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

I used them in my 97 240SX swap. They worked great and looked great.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I used a version of them on my 240z. Made a cross member and mounted them to that. I couldn't use the stock vette isolators, too damn big and not to mention expensive. S&P sells biscuit mounts that look a lot like standard shock isolators.

To clear the headers I had to remake the passenger side mount to move the mounting point forward and inch.

What I really like about this style of mount is the ability to shim the motor up to align the driveline angles. It is nice to have that flexibility

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Those look almost exactly like the rubber flathead mounts I used in my car. I would suspect they're the same mount.

Andy1

Oscar,

I used the Vette donut motor mounts on my 914 Porsche/LS1 conversion car. I'm very happy with the isolation they provide.

Andy1

rockytopper

I got a nice set on the 2006 ls2 vet engine I just aquired and it has the rubber and engine brackets. I'm hoping I can fit them on the 55 nomad I'm building.

rockytopper

Just as a fellow up the vet mounts work great in a 55 Chevy. They fail right next to the frame and front cross member corner. The vet donuts are way to big but I used energy suspension donuts and they worked out great.